Perscitus

If you're looking for a stockish feel, but with improved performance my combo is fairly inexpensive. I have Eibach Pro-Kits, KYBs with New KYB Strut mounts, and a Megan 22mm adjustable RSB. All together under $1000. You have to call Eibach directly for the springs cause they are discontinued but may still have stock left. They sell for like $100 shipped and provide an 1" drop. I also upgraded to 17x8" WRX wheels wrapped in 245/45/17 tires. So total spent about $1500-1600 but the bang for buck has paid for itself. I plan on Raptors and a Tune as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Eibach-7722-140-Pro-Kit-Performance-Spring/dp/B004Y3GSRI

https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/lowering-springs/eib1-7722-140-eibach-pro-kit-lowering-springs

Like you said Eibach seems to have them on close-out for $92.75

UPDATE - they do have them in stock but not at the 92.75 price, just the 'normal' $275....

at least they will not offer them @ that price anymore.

http://performance-suspension-eibach.shptron.com/p/pro-kit-performance-springs-set-of-4-springs-302

Hey Gator, BtSsm logging in Kline mode (non-CAN) will give you plenty more than just RPM on a 2005 Subaru ECU (USDM, EDM, JDM etc.)

You can either do BtSsm OBDII Bluetooth dongle + Android device, OBDLink LX/MX + Android device, VAG-com cable + USB-OTG adapter + Android device or Tactrix OPv2 + USB-OTG adapter + Android device.

Nice find Humble, but my vote is also to skip intakes, especially something like this.

OEM is ideal, both for NA and FI up to say Stage 2 or 3.

MAF scaling issues, intake resonance and turbulance skewing the MAF

and everythin that inherits from the MAF signal on a MAF/MAP tune is not worth anything an intake could potentially deliver either off-road or up top in the power band.

Tim, have you asked Ed regarding yay/nay on this or any other intake for your 3.6R?

What's his take given the count of 3.0Rs and 3.6Rs he's tuned with all possible combos of stock/aftermarket intake, headers, exhaust setups. including intakes with that funky airbox chamber sold in Asia.

The Raptor intake sadly does not fit a 5th or 6th gen 3.6R and when we talked about it a few years ago, Raptor wasn't too interested in expanding their design to cover the newer engine.

With all the intake R&D work I've done on these cars, I would still vote to just keep the intake stock, milkjug resonator and all, even down to the air filtering element or at most, swap in a dry-element drop in.

I have the new bezel, just don't want to spend the time mounting the old DRL because I am considering changing things up a little and haven't made a final decision yet.

Why still no fog bezels with that new bumper cover Joe?

Planning something different from the DRLs or?

Today... visited my favorite winery in Bridgehampton.

http://www.wolffer.com/

Thats the thing, similar to your current setup Im not.

Perhaps the trick is a smaller or different aux cooler combined with a fully synthetic fluid that behaves well under lower temps?

I typically use a small aux cooler with multiple flow paths, mounted in front of the radiator and AC condenser in the path of direct airflow and radiator fan airflow. Couple that with a full ATF transfusion or a series of drain and fills to switch to say Amsoils or Motuls ATF, CVTF... Ideally which meet the required Subaru spec. Both have a much wider operating range vs OE fluid... Both on the cooler ans hotter sides of the spectrum.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/70268-SuperCooler-Automatic-Transmission-Cooler/dp/B000CIGE9G#productDescription_secondary_view_div_1479653147037

Also used on the JDM WRX S4, Levorg and 5th gen Legacy/Liberty DIT

and the USDM 2015+ WRX.

I would skip. No benefit over a well plumbed perhaps smaller aux cooler / thermostat setup.

I have bypassed these on 3 Subarus with no ill effects and good CVTF temps.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/properly-plumb-your-5eat-transmission-cooler-221643.html

Hmm, your setup sounds fine - except if I understand it correctly, all that thermostat is doing is routing the fluid back to the transmission below 165F, only sending it through the air cooler >165F, correct? If so, perhaps you're seeing some effect of cold ATF in 1st since it would stay cool for a prolonged period of time post cold-start. What type of fluid?

Can you log using either RR or BtSsm and get a sense of how long your ATF stays below say 100F, 150F? See what each of the solenoids are doing (log all solenoid pressure psi outputs), log engine/turbine RPMs and see when you notice lockup in 1st and other gears.

How do I find the HEX address to monitor Fuel Pump Duty?

I know the (other?) address is 3ad04, but to monitor it in BtSsm I need the hex address.

ROM: A2WC522N (based on A2WC521N (based on 32BITBASE)).

 

At this point I'm more interested in understanding how to find it, not just finding it.

For pre-defined standard, extended and engineering params - always look to the latest RR logger definition XML file.

Search it for the params you're interested in (standard params - generic - same address for most of our cars; extended/engineering params - memory addresses are ECUID specific).

<parameter id="P47" name="Fuel Pump Duty" desc="P47" ecubyteindex="13" ecubit="0" target="1">

<address>0x00003B</address>

<conversions>

<conversion units="%" expr="x*100/255" format="0.00" />

</conversions>

Say 0%, 33%, 66%, 100% or 0%, 50%, 75%, 100%.

Might as well log Injector PW or DC as well to see if you have any fuel delivery issues. Fuel pump DC alone might not be very revealing.

One interesting note to above info on MDS on recent-gen Subarus (say 2005+) is that at least under SSM, MDS is active on cold start as well and appears fairly accurate on a per-cylinder basis.

Monitoring 'Misfire (counts) Cylinder #1-6' SSM params over CAN or Kline (as applicable: so 1-4 on H4s, 1-6 on H6s) on Scoobies of varied ignition sys health should help figure out at least part of this MDS logic.

No, you don't lose a break point in the table. It's exactly the same as the AP from what I can tell. You leave the first three cells the same (5, 10, 40 g/s on a stock rom) and then modify the fourth (80 on my stock ROM). The fourth is the limit.

 

Edit: ah, that's the wrong thread with essentially all the information you need. There's a thread somewhere on this site where someone (i want to say it was covertrussian) changed the limit value (instead of the D cell value) and it seemed to work as intended.

I also disabled all AF Learn/Correct #3 and #4 (H6, so both Bank 1 and Bank 2 tables apply) fueling contributions because my O2 sensors are no longer physically located behind the cats (making any/all fueling contributions to CL suggested by them useless).

CVT owners, I highly recommend monitoring your CVTF temps, CVT deterioration %, VB Solenoid Pressures, Impeller and Turbine RPMs (to see when the lockup clutch engages and if it holds).

Depending on your model year and whether your car uses a Denso vs a Hitachi TCU, you can do most of this using RomRaiders logger, ActiveOBD, ActiveOBD for TQ and soon BtSsm (by far the most versetile, fast and convienient of the three). Best $15 you can spend for your CVT Subaru.

Average and peak CVTF temps alone will be very telling. If consistently too high, especially for extended periods of time its a good sign of:

a. Oxidized CVTF (time to flush or drain-n-fill)

b. Potential issues with TC lockup clutch

c. Brazed TC, faulty solenoids, etc.

Monitoring CVTF temps under load, when climbing hills, inner city stop and go, towing, etc gives a great indicaton if your car could benefit from a aux. CVTF cooler or if the OE radiator unit and tiny cooler are sufficient.

A naked 3.6 with no engine cover. Kinda looks like a big plastic insect hopped up on the engine.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4784300&postcount=9229

And yes, its a H6 facehugger that's hopped up on there:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5413843&postcount=22063

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5413881&postcount=22064

Received some dual bead clamps from Gator to replace all along the intake/throttle body tract.

Great build quality, easy install/removal, far better equalized clamping vs standard and even tbolt clamps I had on previously. The rolled edges and internal sleeves are great silicone coupler friendly features, with dual beads providing a better seal... No vaccum leaks whatsoever with less clamping force.

Will be back soon to order constant tension clamps for the WRX intake, charge pipe and TMIC couplers.

Looking good! Drive-train loss on a modern 6MT Scoobie is ~19-20%.

AT and CVT are in the ballpark of ~30%.

In Virtual dyno, make sure you have the frontal area as close as possible to the 5th gen dimensions.

I spent a few days gathering all that info years ago, I'll dig it up and share.

For clarification, EcuTeK DOES NOT lock your ECM. EcuTeks original platform locked the ECM. That was the 02-05 WRX.

ONLY 02-05 WRX ECM ARE LOCKED BY ECUTEK. No other Subaru ECM's are locked by EcuTeK. It is a professional tuning platform and the tunes are locked by the tuner. Just like a professional tune on an AP. EcuTek does not advertise, market or sell their tuning software to anyone other than a verified pro tuner. Many opensource software platforms are a reverse engineering of the original EcuTeK software.

My 2010 3.6R under Ecutek was 'locked' (perhaps its not the correct term, but the net effect was the same, more on that below) and so is my brother's 2015 WRX, still running Ecutek (in his case the 'lock' is further compounded by the use of RaceROM features).

When I say 'locked' for the 2010 32-bit Denso ECU/ECM, I mean the default CAN bus SSM handshake/challenge/key was changed the moment an Ecutek reflash was written to the ECU/ECM EEPROM. This in turn prevented any third-party software from reading the ECU image (fine by me) but also Subaru's own SSM III and SSM IV and Flashwrite software from overwriting the Ecutek reflash with a stock flash, if I decided I wanted to go back to stock on my own, sell the car or go in for a recall reflash (not fine by me).

Now, there is 3rd party software out there that can a. read and save an Ecutek flash image from an Ecutek'ed car (its still encrypted though as it saves down, which is OK as I don't care for or want to steal anyone's intellectual property - tuner's or Ecutek's), including the embedded license info and b. overwrite an Ecutek'ed ECU/ECM flash with a stock flash, changing the handshake/challenge/key back to 'normal' Subaru default... allowing subsequent re-flashing with stock images and/or opensource tunes based off of compatible CALIDs.

The caveat on rolling back from an Ecutek tune WITHOUT Ecutek's suite/tuner kit or a trip to a Ecutek tuner is that once RaceROM is involved, things become substantially more complicated. As far as I know, and at least for now, there is no easy way to backup or remove a RaceROM'ed image from a 32-bit Denso or Hitachi ECU/ECM. Going back to stock is only possible via the Ecutek tuning suite (where a stock flash can be re-applied to a given car). RaceROM poses a challenge because typically sections of memory that are not used in the stock ROM or written in general are used to fit the RaceROM functionality (any/all) and write a sometimes larger than normal payload to the EEPROM.

Now - as you mentioned - tuners have the ability to 'lock' tunes on their own as well. Sometimes through proprietary software (encryption/decryption before writing to the ECU/ECM) and/or by something as simple as changing the ECUID/CALID (typically CALID) to something other than what Subaru expects for a given Model-year/engine/market combo (say change one digit or reverse two fields, etc.). Depending on the tools at hand, this can be done either with opensource or Ecutek.

Tesla Model 3 (pre-ordered one a few days before the prototype event)

or 991.2 Carrera.

Most likely Model 3 though, because I'm tired of ICEs.