Perscitus

They'll be switching to EVs soon enough. Hopefully some nice per-hub or at least per-axle design that marries some form of Subaru AWD tech with the motors and still results in a relatively affordable end product ($40-60K to start, eventually brought down to $25-35K territory).

No more DI anxiety, no IAM, FKC, FLKC, AF Error, Boost error to ever worry about.

The latest XV soft-hybrid rehash using Toyo-tech approach isn't going to last them much beyond 2020 and they know it.

Neither one is that big of a deal actually.

Valve heads and stems as well as intake valve channels getting caked up is inevitable (Subaru tries to limit this with stratefied start strategy) and neither AOS, catch-cans, limiting blow-by helps too much.

Chem cleaners do little to nothing to eradicate the carbon buildup.

Walnut or similar blasting every 30, 60, 100K is ideal and restores as-new functionality.

However, the problem is not as bad as on old Mitsubishi and BMW DI motors. And even more importantly, even with badly caked valves and guide channels, the performance hit is small <10-12%. Could be noticable but not enough to pose any concern by most users.

Re the TR690 HT-CVT. So long as its fed fresh synthetic fluid (flushes every 30-60K) and kept cool (say as long as possible in the goldylock zone of 120-180F) using aux coolers, thermostatic bypass, active cooling etc - this slushbox can easily handle 360-400 lbft-f.

The weakest link on this transmission is the mini TC, then the valve body and only then the chain and cog mechanisms.

CoBB is lukewarm at best anyway, they don't even keep up with the latest micro-code and sub-routine changes SoA rolled out for the 2015-2017 USD WRXs (MT and CVT),

let alone providing enough table definitions to give tuners the tools they'd need to tackle Stage 2 CVT tunes safely on the WRX CVT or FXT.

SubaruEdit for FAxxDIT, worse-case even Ecutek do.

However, I highly doubt that even Epifan or Ecutek will add support for the Ascent ECU/TCU combo given the vehicle's target demographic and certain lack of aftermarket interest from both end-users and vendors.

Good question FLlegacy.

Maybe the SoA lurkers that are on here (and don't post) can answer.

Or perhaps JustyWRC, SoADealer or some of the other kool-aid sipping NASIOC fans will.

If all else fails, cars101 should do the trick.

Nah, got to keep it period correct.

Vintage old-gen period correct B4 badging.

They are actually 5th gen badges, in fairly rare grey

(as opposed to the more common dark red backing)

The vehicle shouts cost-savings and vanilla-ville.

Expected I guess, up until the time you see the sticker price, which has nothing to do with what you get for said price.

The lack of hood gas struts really put me off as soon as I lifted that heavy bonnet.

And on the inside - Bam! Bam! Flinstone fimur dash decor and a material and finish cluster#@&$ make for a busy and dated interior. Guess thats what people who might buy these like.

Subaru Tribeca, episode 3 take 3 gen 3 aka Ascent:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5793816&postcount=701

First production vehicles arriving at Long Island dealerships, out in the wild on Mother's Day.

Good ol' TR690 from Legacy DIT, FXT, WRX, WRX S4/Levorg GTS, JDM CVT cooler, S207 engine oil cooler.

Test drove this Limited and I am not impressed. Then again I'm nowhere near target demographic for this or any 'modern' Subaru (particularly in USDM flavor).

It's quiet enough but disengaging, feels weaker than a stock FXT or WRX CVT (figures given the power-to-weight and assumed throttle related mappings)... certainly on take off, even if you roll into it and when toying with throttle at steady state cruise. DBW and Requested/Calculated torque tables will need a lot of work as usual, even in stock form (as most of these will live out their lives).

Interior materials are a mix of good, ok to meh.

Too many mixed finishes/textures/colors. 3rd row feels forced and not very practical.

Great hydraulic lifters holding up the rear hatch, and a complete letdown up front with the relatively heavy hood with integrated under-scoop.

I think this will still sell like hot cakes.

It's a great soccer/la crosse mobile, grocery getter and 2nd or 3rd car for suburbia across America.

But at this price point, the competition has never looked better.

http://www.atra.com/Webinars/Import/Subaru_Lineartronic_CVT_Introduction.pdf

thanks guys.. sweet options... mevotek is actually 2 blocks from where I work, I have a deal with them, they buy from me at cost plus 10% .. i get cost price plus 10% with them. now im thinking of the rears and wondering how much ajustment i need.. i think im sitting at max oem specs 1.9deg i think... argh ENABLERS....

Actually here's another option that I ironically just learned of right now from a RallySportDirect "hand picked for you based on your ride" email: SuperPro. Very similar design and pricepoint to both the SPCs and Whiteline, but in SuperPro's dark blue as well.

https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/control-arms/spp-trc0011-super-pro-rear-lower-control-arm-kit

Yup looks good - but on the rear why not go with some camber-adjustable LCAs?

They're about 2x the cost of the MEVOTECH but you'd benefit from an adjustable alignment in the back.

SPC or Whiteline parts fit. In fact any BRZ-destined parts fit.

Yup Tim you're right.

Humble - highly doubt it. The only thing that can be said which is true at least in some sense is that the USDM Legacy is effectively an Outback sedan or rather, shares most of the chassis configuration with the Outback.

Whereas the non-USDM Legacy/Liberty of the era is somewhat different.

Different steering rack, electric power steering, far more suspension differences, etc.

But even those non-USDM cars (from the 2L boxer diesel through EJ25s, FA20DITs to EZ36Ds) didn't get LSDs.

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/outback/outback2010.html

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/outback/outback2014.html

No real benefit of an LSD anyway when paired with the 5EAT slushbox and no DCCD.

I ended up replacing both front LCAs ~80K miles. Easy job.

No tears but @ 8 years old, the OE bushings were clearly aged, fatigued and showing early signs of rubber rot.

Grass always seems greener on the other side.

Until they realize it taste more or less the same.

Hence one of the trends in Japan and throughout Australasia and wider Oceania to install USDM accents, parts, etc and the exact opposite in North America and Europe.

Even retailers and marketers throughout the industry spectrum taylor advertizing of parts to a given region. What sells as Euro-spec or JDM in one region (because it has some appeal as such) is sold as US-spec or American in another.

Brand rebadges within a product family or model to model are the tip of the iceberg.

Toyota to Lexus and vice-versa

Infiniti to Nissan and vice-versa

Honda to Acura and vice-versa

VWG round robin (VWs as Audis, Seat as VWs, VWs as Skodas)

GMG round robin (Chevy, Vauxhall, Opel, Buick, etc.)

Kia/Hyundai/Daewoo mix and match

and the very common badge model upgrades

or sleeper attempt downgrades across all makes/models

I now have a BP close to home and work. Been thinking of going 93 octane, and change the Cobb tune from 91 to 93, but don't want to be caught out away from home with the wrong fuel. Could change the tune temporarily if that happens....i think.

Cool beans! Guess that road force balance last month didnt help.

Just about a year into owning the 2010 after last owner, right?

The CPO thread got long fast too, glad you pulled the trigger on it.

Hope you can also inject some tact and common sense into the 6th gen community

(if we can even call them that). Right now they have a large deficit of both.

I do like the 10-12 front, but a 13-14 front end on a GT is a beautiful thing.

I most liked the way this RRP LGT looked before with the old front end and before the colorcoded lip or as Rudolph the rednosed raindeer with the pom over the emblem, years ago.

If you like the post facelift and hood scoop look, google for some 2014 Legacy LGTs/DITs imported to Peru from Japan and Australasia. The non-USDM post-facelift flows and looks even better. There was even one on here (in silver) a few years back... briefly.

Nah, keep her true to her early production run roots.

As much as I like the 13-14 front end, I think the 10-12 one flows better with the USDM lines of the hood, fenders, etc.

Rather interesting article (credit: Sgt. Gator of the 'Colonel Red Racing 2005 STI Race Car' thread):

http://www.enginelabs.com/engine-tech/dyno-testing/big-fuel-test-part-5-e85-versus-winner-crowned/

Sorry to hear and see above.

Sadly, Subaru and most other manufacturer's paint is terrible nowadays. Water based thin layer bs.

Subaru is fairly high up toward the top of the worst paint quality list (been there for maybe 13-18 years), only 'beaten' out by say Tesla and Porsche.

If you want a pristine paint job then either 'invest' in a museum showpiece or full mechanical paint correction followed by CQuartz Finest Reserve + full clear wrap at taking delivery (don't even let the dealer remove the protective shipping film all over the various body panels). The question is why on an econobox or any DD car?

Seeing both of these today led me to consider that

depending on preference and personal choice either one could be

an owner's a. daily beater b. track toy

or of course neither (even if compensated for it)

The concrete jungle harbours an endless array of automotive gems and disasters...

A lot of that was complete alien speak to me lmao. I really need to learn more about that stuff, I will look into it. As for the battery itself, the dealership replaced the battery when I bought the car about 2 years ago, so I should be able to still get a few more years out of it, enough time to learn properly what I would want/need from a battery to swap to something else.

 

I'm actually going out of the country for about 10 days in the beginning of May, which will be the longest the car has sat since I bought it. Is there anything I should do with the car to prep it to sit for that duration? Should I just tap a friend to come start it up every day or two?

10 days in May or anytime temps are above say 60F is no big deal.

No need to start it, actually best not to. If anything, Id get a kill switch and istall it. Drive her until you leave, park, kill switch on. Come back, kill switch off, battery still fully charged up after 10-14 days.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001N729FS/ref=psdcmw_15719961_t1_B00099YOV8

Gave my battery terminals a long overdue cleaning and threw on the little Wangan SPL Voltage Stabilizer I've had sitting around. I doubt it'll do much, but I snagged it for cheap so I figured I'd try it. Looks neat in the engine bay too.

 

The battery acid chewed throw the finish on my SPT battery tiedown, so I'll need to get a new one soon. Looking at possibly the Cusco tie down since I've got a fair bit of blue/Cusco bits in the bay already.

AGM and Alt-S fuse are best bang for the buck. H6s have the beefiest OE alternator, good grounds and decent lead wires so only the output V and battery specs are lacking.