tony saurus

I bought them before; however, I just picked them up from the post today. They will probably be temporary until I can build a set of manifolds. They need some cleanup to be a viable set of NA headers but overall I’m pleased.

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Someone here did brake ducts there with pics and a diy post. The way he did it would work for brakes or for the air box. I would have copied that except I have the aero package that covers that area.

 

EDIT: This one. Pics arent showing anymore, too bad, they were pretty informative.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/front-brake-cooling-duct-223548.html

Thank you very much! I can’t see photos but I’ll read through

The concept is very good with the sole exception that I am going to need most of that space in my future so any brake ducts will be coming from the belly pan. The thread you sent will be a good reference for my execution of that.

My particular case isn’t totally unique. It is slightly different from the norm; however.

I also think that for my brake plans, these vents are not a sufficient “intake” and so I will be doing naca ducts in several places to have efficient airflow to/ from components that need cooling.

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That is cool you made them functional. It would probably be better suited for brake cooling though.

That will be down the road. It’s not “functional” as it could be as there is no ducting behind directing airflow back and upwards. Some heavy bumper mods will likely be essential for the IC anyways.

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Did a little more air to the intake ducting thingy. More for my own satisfaction than any kind of real power.

^before -> after v

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Definitely call soa and find their diagnostic procedures for evaluation of damage from improper towing.

As far as my area, I don’t think you will win a case but your insurance “may” cover damage as a result of improper towing and if anyone is likely to win that court case, it’s your insurance.

P.S. Do some digging into your policy coverage and get some clarification before you start a claim so that your premiums don’t go up.

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Maybe, maybe not. I know a little bit on how exhaust companies like Invidia operate and they can make any part at any time. They don't just do giant batch runs because that leads to parts collecting dust and taking up warehouse space. They do made-to-order kits for a lot of vehicles.

 

I think the lack of availability has more to do with a combination of California's heavy handed response to covid effecting how companies can operate and the current stainless steel shortage...

 

https://www.hellenicshippingnews.com/us-stainless-steel-shortages-expected-to-continue/

What state are you in? You can probably buy the system (used even) for another vehicle with dual cans and have it modified for your car by a good welder at a shop. May not be perfect but it will likely be cheaper and faster

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Paid the maintenance bill (ouch) to get Blizzard back on the road after a couple years. Still more work to be done.

This is next week for me. Having some intrusive (necessary) repairs done while I am in the middle of a move. It sucks but the alternative is worse to me.

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Not sure how I missed this but lower as in where the new pocket is?

You can see in the video how they adjusted the screen. The unit is highly adjustable but I the only thing it covers from my vantage is the factory clock which I haven’t been setting. I disconnect the battery when I am doing fab work on exhaust components so I don’t bother to say it now.

I believe the screen has 6 height settings, mine is second highest, and can be made to be even farther up or much farther down and tilt slightly. I love the way it works so far. It’s fast and easy to read and the sound is much much better. I will probably need to have my laptop in the car as well soon so I don’t need it for engine/ power sensor display. When tuning is closer to completion, I will probably get a datalink assuming it is compatible with my hardware/ software

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That’s the wheel these cars should have come with. Mine is slick from 10 years of use. Was thinking of a cover or different wheel. The cover is more likely to get the wife’s approval though. [emoji1]

 

 

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I am certain you can buy a “sew on” cover to fit these wheels that takes more patience and steady hands than $$ I just wanted the smaller diameter in addition to the better materials.

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You may have mentioned this in a previous post, but what wheel is that?

 

 

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That’s the damd wheel. I personally love it. Of course it literally changes steering / interior feel but it also doesn’t look over-sporty. It was pricey but I’d buy it again if I had to.

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This came in the mail today so I figured that I would avoid a double post. [emoji16]

Holy f* that's expensive.

It can be. It’s why repair shop loyalty or diy pays off.

Before replacing anything , follow proper diagnostic process and you will probably feel much better about the cost. I always do. Sometimes it’s as simple as a fuse, other times a soul consuming rebuild. Better not to rebuild on account of a fuse that was improperly diagnosed.

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Worked some more on it today: this is the exhaust dropped out of the car while I try to sort out some fitment issues and patch up the holes on my shoddy welds.

Also here are my “bandaid” headers until I’m done fabricating the rest of the system.

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Definitely sounds like clutch pack adjustments combined with rear diff bushings. Maybe a software update will help too?

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Really curious where you were able to find one of these currently.

I saw it on eBay and coincidentally, the guy is a local so I am picking it up next week. I assume he didn’t install it because his project lost steam and he went 2.5t

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Curious how this sits in our dash

I think it sits quite nicely. There is a YouTube video where someone installed it lower on a legacy as well.

http://

Hopefully that doesn’t break any rules.

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I finally tracked one of these down so this is what I bought today.

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I imagine this would go further if you remove your fog light.

 

Personally I have removed mine, as I just have a pod filter in the guard without any box.

As of now I really like my fog lights for visibility and I’ll be using this space later for piping of some sort rather than the filter. May have to ditch them eventually.

Unfortunately or fortunately: there is still a lot of airflow from the wheel well. I ran a different set up and cut a nice groove in the fender liner. I drove a small bit with it today and didn’t notice anything so I’m going to leave it until my next time I pull everything back apart.

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Cleaned my air box and filter out today. Went ahead and threw a task lamp “velocity cone” on it just to see if it helps with intake temps. Exterior diameter of the hole in the bottom of the air box is 3” if that helps anyone.

Yea this is temporary. Just trying it out

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@tony saurus

That's sad, isn't it? lol

 

I wouldn't know about Dodge/Chrysler. The last time I touched a Dodge like 15 years ago. And I ended up having the whole vehicle repainted. lol

Don’t, Subaru paint is better but for some reasons the dodge Chrysler paint still has almost zero bond with the metal.

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Unfortunately: yes. I am a pdr tech and most Subaru repairs rely on good access to the back of a panel. Any work that involves actual contact to the paint is more likely to fail.

We use a process called glue pulling for almost all roof rails and rocker panels. This process on Subaru paint usually pulls the clear off the paint.

Chrysler/ dodge paint is even worse.

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Maybe test the radio without the pink wire plugged and see if there are any missing functions on the radio?

Probably effects the “speed volume”. I beloved in those HK it was a non adjustable function. The function,on its own, probably isn’t important to you, but I wouldn’t put it past Any manufacturer if it is necessary to use the head unit at all

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one's a depo and one's a tyco. they aimed fine, they were actually well aimed out of the box so it was just a minor tweak down but it was fine

Mine too! Driver side (left) was slightly high but that’s it. Unfortunately my oven wasn’t big enough to fit these lights or I would have done a paint job on the stock ones

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I feel guilty posting again right after I posted but this forum is very quiet.

Did some more work in my exhaust and finished the general shape of the axle back. I still have extra material but it’s not hanging down and out like a nose over a mask.

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Did some more work on my exhaust. I’d say I’m 80% don’t with the axle back now. I bound up the flange is why it’s slightly crooked but it’s a 2.5 into 2” pipes through symmetrical 4” resonators , 7” single chamber mufflers, and 4” quad tips. Haven’t decided how to do my mid pipe yet and I anticipate having a huuuge resonator to reduce drone.

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I put a quick release on the negative terminal of my battery, lots of installs as of late and this helps me to make sure I am protecting the electronics when I am r&i modules and welding.

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