tony saurus

I love how your quad tips turned out. I tried this a few years back. I did not like how the bumper turned out. I should have tried to fix it by bringing the exhaust tips up and cutting more of the bumper. Oh well. I have since gone back to stock.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4798560&postcount=111

I always try tucking my exhaust as far up under the car as I can. I spent more time and tucked them even further in and higher up. I finally have a tolerable amount of leaks but I was not able to continue work as my brother / sister in law have all of their life in my garage while they search for a new home. Somehow I don’t think they want me welding next to their couches.

Stock is a great sound for the ez36. I just need a different type of flow for future completion of current plans.

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Odd initial suggestion: check your vacuum lines and fluid level/ condition in the reservoir.

Are you experiencing any other drivability issues? Maybe you could do a bleed on your brakes hydraulic fluid to check for general condition. Make sure that all of the calipers are moving freely and that any maintenance on that system is up to date. Only because it is a system full of wearable components, I recommend an awful lot of things before replacing other components.

Thankfully valves can be tested for proper operation quite easily and if you are to need to replace one, then you can be certain it has failed.

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I have been using the orange rain-x for 15 years now. I use regular rain-x on my windshield and the orange rain washer fluid maintains that. Prior to that I used use have to apply rain-x every month or so. I think it is great. If you friend had nasty build up he didn’t have a clean windshield to begin with. I owned a VW where they had a note about it not being compatible with windshield washer fluid sensor. I used it for 5 years on my 1st Legacy, 4 years on my current one.

 

One note is that I tried the Green Rain-X once in the summer. I still had some in my reservoir and found it froze at 25F and my washer fluid.

This is a valid point!

Even if: the orange blue pink purple chrome colored wiper fluid if any brand is good or less than such.

Then: the condition of components and the care of the vehicle has a larger influence on the longevity of components and their continued functions.

Except: the case of detrimental materials and poor practices in upkeep, maintenance and repair.

Volkswagon AG has a technical service bulletin (tsb) for those sensors specifically. It’s not AS relevant to other branded vehicles generally. Still relevant and something to keep in mind.

During the summer I just throw distilled water in. During the winter: I add some rubbing alcohol and rain-x additive to the tank but not much else. Winters in the DMV are mild

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Not in trend but 2nd gen viper or fd rx-7. The big ole 5th gen legacy/ 4th gen outback is nice but it makes me want for a sleeker , sexier daily. [emoji17] I am a disgrace I know

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I have a 2010 LGT and wanted to swap the trunk lid to one without the lip just so I don't have to fill any holes. I wanted to know if anyone was aware if I can just toss my camera and lock cylinder from my trunk lid into the new one no problem or if there are any complications. Thanks

Impossible …. There is no way to make this work.

All jokes aside: yeah! You can probably swap the plastic carrier above the plate recess over from one trunk to the other and avoid a lot of complications with the camera and the harness is likely the same. I don’t think it’ll give you any problems at all. Once the trunk lid liner is dropped, the lock cylinder is very easy to swap over.

The most complicated aspect of this is the human aspect. If you are swapping with another owner, then you may find that this has to be completed more immediately. If that’s the case: remove your lock cylinder in your leisure before the swap to have “in hand” and familiarize yourself with the process of r&i on that component whilst leaving your own trunk lid liner “down”. Will make a swap fast and also less stressful to have visibility. Shouldn’t cause any issues with water / weather considering the angle that the lock cylinder is installed.

Good luck and happy wrenching!

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Sounds like good news to me. I wouldn’t disregard the replacement of the bushings if they seemed to need it; however, it does sound as if they are not yet failed. I’m glad you could resolve the noise concern without throwing the whole kitchen sink at it. Cheers

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Spare is tight. Still clunks.

 

RSB bushings look shot so replacing those with Whiteline 22mm greaseless bushings.

Just wanted to check in and see if you had any success with your diagnostic process?

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OK I will take a look underneath and see what I can find.

 

Fwiw the clunking sounds like it's coming from the trunk.

 

Thanks

I mean … I hope you empty out your trunk before you ever replace any components lol.

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I’ll never stop appreciating how great this color is at night.

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Hey all,

 

Been away for a few years . Legacy has been treating me well

 

Currently installed:

RCE blacks and RCE Bilsteins

Upgraded RSB and FSB

Perrin Endlinks

 

I hear clunking in the rear on driveways driving over uneven pavement.

 

Does anyone have an idea of what could be causing this? Would LCAs resolve this issue? I have a small camber issue in the rear that I have been living with for probably close to 100K miles.

 

Any other bushings I could replace because of wear and tear to stiffen-up things? Suspension still feels great.

 

I haven't made suspension changes other than what is mentioned above, which occurred at about 50K-60K miles.

I definitely recommend proper diagnostic process. That said: if it is strictly uneven, then it probably the Swaybar bushings not the endlinks or the Swaybar’s them selves. Check the torque on the brackets for sure and then see if there is any difference with the sway bar installed vs uninstalled.

Saw this problem a lot on my Audi’s and it was almost always a 70$ set of bushings instead of all the other multiple expensive components you would never want to replace.

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The 1st replacement engine was 45k, but yeah it sat for about 2.5 months waiting for my shop to have time to do the swap.

Maybe try renting a cherry picker, verifying the proper tools, and do it yourself. It’s not as hard as people would have you think if it is a complete replacement. Just don’t disconnect any a/c lines [emoji6]

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Ok so I'm really lost right know and am in need of someone to guide me in the right direction please!! So I bought a 2011 forester with a fb 25 motor had it for a month engine crapped out on me cause it threw a rod I'm limited on funds so I couldn't get the same motor so I found a 2011 subaru legacy with a ej 25 sohc so I grabbed it threw it in and all it does is crank and the harness that it came with is the one I used so the main plugs only the gray one is plugged in it didn't have the brown one is that my problem? It's my family's only mode of transportation so I got it all done in 2 days and never done a subaru motor and really don't no to much about them if there's any guidance someone can give I would greatly appreciate it

You can send both harness to a pro to be merged. That would be a step one worthy of a used engine financially.

Step two would probably be an open source tune to get things to talk. Still probably the same price as a used engine .

The road ahead is probably as or more expensive than the one you’ve started down already

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I've used it during the last 3 years on the last 3 vehicles I've owned and I've had no issues...

I’m somewhat of an anomaly myself. I have good luck with the rain-x wiper blades. But I generally agree that I’ve never seen anyone else get a good pair.

[emoji2369] if it works, it works. If it doesn’t, there is always a few good reasons why. Rain-x is a good reason to have a few issues with a multitude of cars

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LMAO my friend years ago put that in his car and threatedned my life to never do it to any of my vehicles after watching his sh!tshow I said no worries lol... So no its just been -20 deg blue windshiled stuff.

Yeah it sounds like a bad level sensor. Give it the ole continuity test and see if it’s failed for sure

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If I remember correctly, pulling back the front of the wheel well liner will give you the access you need. Pulling the bumper would definitely help though.

 

Strange failure for sure.

I have to ask …. Rain-x fluid ?

[emoji28] *puts on flame suit*

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yeah it's not great, but certainly nowhere as bad as a new pickup's stock lights after the truck has been lifted 3 inches.

Setting the bar low there are ya? lol but I get it. Much improved I’m sure

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The local shop I mentioned actually has one of those Outfront destroked 3.29L EZ36 blocks sitting around from a project that never materialized. I've very often half seriously joked with them that they should just throw that in my car. They say it's good for 11k rpm and will hold up to 1500 hp boosted, but it's a also $16k block. Weird as it may sound, my "if-i-win-the-lottery" build would be that block, built as far as possible while staying NA, with a Level10 bulletproof 5EAT built trans, to keep *more or less* the same driving experience, just x10.

 

Also you mentioned we've messaged on IG, what was your account name? You can DM it if you prefer.

If I get all my hiccups sorted I may ask you for the name of that shop. They charge more direct for a long block than that. I think to get the full usefulness, a full motec system would probably be necessary. Another 20-30k .

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In my recent experience, turning a key with no fob twice in the driver door to unlock twice and holding it will not set off the alarm.

To avoid setting the alarm, do not use power locks. Lock the doors on the interior with the plastic switch above the handle and close the door. Will not set the alarm. If you have a key with a fob already, this can save money for a short term fix.

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That's awesome, looking forward to seeing the progress. I don't know if you're of the sleeper mindset, but if you want any assistance making your car look the part, feel free to hit me up. .

 

As for the power-adders, once I get my car back from the new engine swap (yes, I killed my 3.6R, and I'm putting another 3.6 in there) and get my Inferno headers and intake and everything on and sorted and enjoy the power bump from that, my next step is probably going to be seeking out some sort of forced induction as well. Obviously the Raptor SC kit is out there, and it's looking more budgetable for me now then ever, but I am local to one of the best Subaru shops in the country, so I could also have them work up something turbo for me as well. Looking forward to seeing where yours goes.

I have! You gave me fantastic advice. I don’t overlap my social media’s and so you wouldn’t know it was me sliding into your dm’s on ig. I think I’ll honestly be buying a few bumpers and fabbing components for both a sleeper and a flashy build. My only goal is to not be associated with wrx guys. I got cut off by someone deciding they didn’t want to turn left from a stop today and I’m the douchebag. [emoji849]

The raptor set up has few reviews and they aren’t fantastic. Not to say it isn’t a great set up but I haven’t even gotten halfway to that budget with my single big turbo set up. I wish I had gone twin low mounted turbos but eh hind-sight is a jerk. There is plenty of room in front of the wheels for some little snail snorters. And piping saved may have made up for the cost of duplicate components (but not the fab sadly)

I haven’t blown it yet and hopefully my block is in good shape. I am looking to get a lot of time in tuning before I have to drop in a 3.2 short block from outfront. Then I suppose starting from scratch but less afraid of crossing the 12psi boundary that seems to be wise with our cars.

I’ll be keeping my eye on your car.

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Yeah I'm pretty much just trying to replace with basics but was considering a little extra oomph with a nameless axleback.

 

Looks like I'll be dropping another $1500 and driving this thing for another year or 2

Ask around at local performance shops / car meets / coffee shops. They probably have a local guy with material to be able to fab 80% of a decent exhaust for you that will be nice to the ears and even a generic resonator/ muffler that isn’t straight through will probably quiet down and breath fine. The nameless stuff is okay but it’s all super loud imho

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Is this going to be the first turbo 3.6R that's actually in a 5th gen instead of swapped into another chassis?

You are probably the first person to pick up on this lol. Ed knows about it, of course, and my struggles with component failures before I even finish the physical fab on the turbo kit.

I don’t know about mine being the first one but you hit the nail on the head. I have the budget, the only hiccup is outfront. They have always occupied the largest part of my budget and still the quote more than exceeded my expectations financially. I may blow up the factory engine before I do a bottom end build with them.

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I think I narrowed down the exhaust leak location [emoji1787]

To be fair, the whole exhaust is a leak at that point. It’s what mine looked like before I started replacing section by section and finding that I couldn’t even weld onto the metal of the original pipe. Look into a good aftermarket mid pipe and some factory replacement mufflers and you will

Be pleased with what stealth backs have to offer (unless it’s too quiet for you)

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DRL’s, without vs with the controller

Highs

I wouldn’t want to be driving in front of or towards you at night … just saying

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Technically exhaust right?

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DRLs

 

Highs

 

 

I hate to say it but the drl still looks like it will blind oncoming traffic. Maybe take a pic facing a wall so that we can see “the a$$h0l3 driving with the high beams on “factor

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