minuccims

And?? I seriously think this or the STI will be my next ride (no worries, a few years down the road!)

 

 

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Really like the car. Not as much room as a 5th Gen. Think of a 4 th Gen up front with legroom for adults in the back. There's a lot in common with our GTs. Did not get to drive it but the visibility is quite good. Although quite similar engine bay layout but it looks much "less cluttered" than ours and well thought out.

I would personally stick with the WRX over the STI, opting for the new power plant. The TQ curve is very nice. Not sure I would mod this one that much for a DD.

With the Whiteline 3-way adjustable, the kartboys are 1-too long and you have to rotate the spring perch. With Bilsteins, the rear needs to be slightly raised so the end link bolt does not interfere with the perch. 2- on the stiff setting, the angle is not the best. Since there is no rotation on the top of the end link that secures to the RSB, the bolt puts a compressive pressure on the upper poly bushing. This year the poly bushing failed. For an single or double adjustment bar, the angle is fine.

So an endlink with adjustability to align the angle is adventagous.

look here:

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/104-gen-4-2010-2014/146457-subaru-outback-3-6r-5eat-tuning-xtreme-racing-tuning.html

Everytime I read one of these clutch threads I sit and think that the next time I do a high speed pull will be the time my OEM clutch gives out. Especially since I plan to do the job myself (with a lift), but my clutch just keeps chugging along, 62k miles. 40k at stage 2 and still no slipping. Maybe I'm not launching enough...

If history repeats itself you just jinked yourself! Lets see if you make it to September!

It's a gradual thing. If you notice the clutch slips just a bit in 5th (or 6th) on the highway and the clock starts; about 4-6 weeks. Are you Cobb OTS or protune? Big difference in the wTQ numbers.

Do some research if you are going to do it yourself. This is not a WRX or 4th gen. The dealer removed the tranny. The indy subie shop removed the engine .... both took the same amount of labor.

Guess I'm not the only one that had a miserable experience with a ClutchMasters product. My FX100 was terrible. Still convinced that the pressure plate was defective and like srehn said it probably did irreversible damage to the trans.

 

The Southbend I have now has been great for 10k miles.

 

Edit: To the OP whatever you do make sure they use OEM fill or Extra S in the trans. My experience with other full synthetic GL-5 gear oils has been less than stellar as well.

I found that Motul Gear 300 has the same benefits as Extra S but lasts longer. Extra S quickly broke down > 24K miles and the knotchness returned.

Father's day gift showed up on a pallet today! Some assembly required...

http://smokinhotgasgrills.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/Weber-Genesis-E330-Features-Med.jpg

I would like to hear the issues with the Fx350. If not the Fx350, then can you provide a recommendation?

From reading the transmission thread in the technical area, there seems to be a mechanical/fit issue with the Spec B version. I think my long break-in period may have been attributed to the dissimilar machined surface between the clutch plate and the resurfaced flywheel.

srehn, did you get a new fly wheel, resurface or just install the clutch setup?

Southbend seems to be a viable alternative. Perhaps the few with this clutch can update there impressions.

Really matters how much torque you are putting to the wheels. Currently have 15K miles on the Fx350. Got 37K out of the ACT HDDS; Got 48K out of the stock clutch (0-12k Stock; 12K-18K Stage I protune; 18K-48K Stage II Protune). Another note on the OEM clutch. It never put immediate power donwn to the wheels. Always a "delay". It was fried when removed.

Reposting from this associated thread: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/best-clutch-choice-daily-driver-eye-e85-stg-iii-217854.html?p=4663409&highlight=HDDS#post4663409

have the CM Fx350. It feels like OEM with super grip. Break in did take some time. It was more like 2000 miles, of which 500 was local stop and go. It is a very driveable clutch for every day with no problems holding the TQ. Has a feel much closer to OEM. I installed with a resurfaced flywheel; not next time. The extended period to break in may have been for the for the grip of the clutch material to adapt to the flywheel surface. Perhaps a better initial surface would have yielded better results. Also, it's not the mileage for break in, but the engagements.

ACT HDDS break in was much better. However, the engagement point was not as forgiving. Easy to smoke this clutch on hill if you were only trying to move the car a little and not launch it, say parking... Second, the pedal force was way way more than OEM.

Note: There is no standard for clutch TQ ratings. I can say the ACT HDSS had to have been at or near the TQ of my Stage II 5th gen. In pouring through posts, the Fx350 should be much greater than the TQ of the car.

Southbend has a good rep. It cost a bit more, and I could not find much info on it when I had to make a choice.

In the end, the evidence shows:

OEM clutch with no engine mods - Sucks

OEM clutch with Stage I - Oh crap this thing sucks and is getting on my nerves

OEM clutch with Stage II - OEM clutch, YOU ARE AN ABOMINATION. Take your high engagement point and shove it. Take your long drawn-out down engagement to put power on to the wheels and take a hike. I will gladly BURN YOUR MATERIAL TO THE RIVETS!!!

ACT HDDS - Cool, AWD burn outs! Quick engagement. Hmmm, left leg is building muscle mass. Engagement point is narrow and still high. Easy to smoke this clutch.

CM Fx350 - Excellent holding power. Quicker to transfer power to the wheels than the ACT. Enjoying the lower engagement point with OEM-like pedal pressure. Much easier to engage the clutch. Break-in is a BITCH. It just takes longer. I even planned a 1000 mile trip to try and accelerate break in. If you don't drive a lot, then the time to break this clutch in will destroy you. The materials is so grippy, it sends the drive train and car into a judder; must depress the clutch and start again. Some of it is relearning. Just 100 more RPM over the ACT and engagement was much smoother.

Overall, I drive more so the Fx350 break in period, although aggravating, was bearable. IMHO, the Fx350 has been far superior. Got about 6K miles on the clutch now and it's all good.

I'll jump in as well

XXR 527s 18x8.75 +35. 255/40R18s Rear fender lip rolled.

http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=812&pictureid=9485

Pacific Rim is the best 3D movie I have ever seen.

don't know about the best but it was quite good. very nice special effects.

GTEASER - Have a blast!

Link to what I'll be having fun with in October:

http://www.hookedondriving.com/details/Watkins.cfm

http://www.hookedondriving.com/images/tracks/watkins_lg.jpg

what do you mean by "70 m2" of clutch fluid for the entire system? ml's?

ill say yes since 2.4 fl Oz's (US) s about 70 ml's

That's a direct paste from the manual. Looks like a typo and should have been ml.

yes

During bleeding operation, keep the clutch reservoir

tank filled with clutch fluid to prevent entry of

air.

• Clutch pedal must be operated very slowly.

• Bleed air from the oil line with help of a co-worker.

• The amount of clutch fluid required is approximately

70 m2 (2.4 US fl oz, 2.5 Imp fl oz) for total

clutch system.

Perrin 2015 WRX Brass Shifter Bushing

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/perrin-2015-wrx-brass-shifter-bushing-224656.html?p=4806951#post4806951

After test fitting the STI washer (# 031106000), can you edit to add part #? Many thanks

Nope,

Several of us with Whiteline 22mm RSB and Kartboy endlinks are rotated 180 degrees so the endlinks clear the perch.

Mod on ....