xt2005bonbon

I have to check mine. Maybe I am wrong. But I do recall watching my real time AFR values while coolant temps were above 219F (with IAT>110F) and she was running rich.

yeah, when the coolant temp goes above a certain threshold, the ECU commands a richer mixture, probably to help cool down the combustion chamber.

That's a good point. I know that past a certain coolant temperature, the ECU adjusts a bunch of things such as AFR, timing and probably a bunch of other things.

I'd check the following:

-long term fuel trims (should be within +/-5%)

-making sure both OCV angles are in sync and the same, whenever the angle is non zero. Usually happens under load.

-keep an eye on misfire count per cylinder

-knock obviously

Both of my cars are still rocking original crank, 02, maf, etc... sensors . I did change one coil pack on each car, but that's it I think. Both 180K+.

Not answering your question, but what was the problem in the end?

Yeah. I just checked them out. Lots of choice for wheel bearings there, including BCA, which looks like it is essentially NTN bearings.

Really? OK. Good to know.

My last set of rear wheel bearings lasted quite a while, close to a 100k. And I have a lot of dead weight in the trunk too (~150 lbs); also rocking quite negative camber as well for them canyons . Not sure if the latter add more strains to the wheel bearings..

My front ones are currently some NTN ones I got on ebay. 46k miles so far. I usually get everything from ebay and very rarely encounter any problem. Will keep in mind rockauto though.

rhino, where do you source your BCA wheel bearings from?

That's strange. You may have to retrace your steps when you were fixing the washer sprayer. Maybe you messed up something?

As for me: my supposedly Timken brand rear wheel bearing lasted a whopping 10K miles . Full of play. Bought it on eBay. Has 'Timken' brand and manufacturing date stamped on wheel bearing. Looks legit, but definitely crap. The one before that lasted a week! I'll have to buy my bearings from Napa next time..

It should fit unless the legacy JDM bumper is even thinner than the outback version. I would doubt it though. Either way, does not hurt to try..

KZJonny, do you need a rear bar for the LGT or Outback? if LGT, it should fit without the foam. I have a JDM outback rear bumper on one of my cars and I got a USDM Legacy rear beam with it.

Where's the Legacy now?

11 minutes ago, Turbomister2 said:

http://www.subierecycler.com/
 

idk what color you need but they have silver, white and gold available for $70 plus shipping. 
the jdm ones are just outrageously priced, then the ocd kicks in and you end up ordering the matching tail lights !

I need a gold one. I see the post but no pic. Dang it.

should be the exact same.

I think the issue are the fasteners. They rust. And I think there are a lot of them. So it can be easy to forget to loosen one of them, and try to yank the thing.

There are a few on ebay. I am actually looking for one too. Not cheap though..

You must be excited!

Infosecdad is selling a used Grimmspeed for 600$ I think. You should get it.

yes to more tools in the car! I am a little overkill on that one.

Is this your garage?

Yeah, I admit I am also a little hesitant too. But I have the new core here and can tell these hoses can easily spin around. So these are not crimped that hard. The guy said that there are some orings too. So I think it should be OK. Although in my case, the dash will come out anyway since I am going to replace it. Cracked all over the place and shines if too hot.

Same problem for me: barely any heat on passenger side and backflushing did not fix it. I think that's the video I saw a while back.

3 minutes ago, KZJonny said:

If your heater core ever goes bad/gets gunked, this is a pretty good deal. By the time you've dug THAT out of the car, you might just as well get a new everything.

Replacing just the actuators requires tiny hands and all, but is possible without taking out the entire dash. Heater core, not so much luck...

I have a brand new heater core that I have yet to install. I think I read somewhere you can technically slide it out the 'box'. May have seen this on a Tribeca forum.

Ah yeah. This one looks a little more classy to me. All subjective though. But again, if I put something like this on my car, better be a fast car

yeah, 90 bucks is steep. That's why I was not getting them.

Aftermarket electric opener/closer sounds like a good alternative too. I should look into it.