lieutenantcolumbo

Smart thinking. I always seem to end up with an extra bolt or two when I work on something like that. :lol:

And the Humanitarian of the Year Award goes to Dave Climber.

Yeah that's about what happened to me. Bought an Actron PocketScan Plus for $60.00 that allowed me to clear the transmission codes (Cobb AP couldn't clear them). Then it would shift into all gears, but I had to drive it in manual mode and stay out of the nonexistent 4th and 5th gears.

Didn't IPT just throw a resistor in Msprank's '08.........the one that failed?

IIRC you have more clutch packs in 3rd gear, so you would be also safer doing your pulls in 3rd gear than 4th, even though 4th I think is closer to one to one. I believe 4th & 5th share clutches, hence the reason I had extra 4th and 5th gear clutches added when I did my rebuild. This is why I think a lot of the 5EAT's fail from the top down causing us to drive around in 3EAT's until we can afford to get them fixed.

Maybe you're just enjoying running through the gears too much.

Crap I've only been putting in 4.2 quarts. Should have known better than to trust the manual. Jk I actually overfill anyway so I'm like 4.5 quarts. But that actually sounds like a more cost effective option than the KillerB pan if it really picks up two quarts. Might be worth looking into for that cost...............

I had the IPT valve body. I was not impressed with it, nor was my transmission shop. My trans crapped out with the IPT valve body installed. At the time I was only running my AVO380 at 15psi. As I've stated before I don't think anybody would know that you had a IPT valve body installed unless you told them or they were intimately familiar with the car. Not trying to bash IPT, as they did pioneer increasing line pressure which probably saved a lot of transmissions out there. I do not have the F1 Valve Body. I do however have its predecessor as I was the first one documented on this board to get a TransGo kit adapted to my transmission. While driving conservatively in Drive I don't think a casual observer would notice anything different between my setup, the IPT valve body, and stock, even though it does shift quicker and firmer. Spirited driving is where the TransGo/F1 Valve Body really shines. Rating them with stock being the starting point of 0, I'd give the IPT about 2.5 and the TransGo kit a +9. The TransGo/F1 Valve Body is a holistic approach as opposed to the IPT approach which is more of a band-aid. Shifts are that much quicker and firmer. It's how the car should have come from the factory.

I'd give you more props if it was made out of beer cans, but a street sign is pretty cool. Isn't the rest of the hood aluminum?

Here you go: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fs-pa-factory-clock-mileage-computer-167175.html

Nice prop for the hood!

http://www.avojdm.com/product_info.php?products_id=107 also japanparts.com has it.

You don't need to go the full ProTune route. You could just get an etune from InfamousPerformance.net, Tuning Alliance, etc.

Outstanding! Hopefully no damage was done. Anxiously waiting to hear your feedback once you take it to the next level (drilling).

Is there much of your car left that is stock, besides the body? :lol:

Mike - Infamous also did this for ClimberD, think he requested around a 30% increase and had no problems.

1. Correct 2. It can hold several maps. It will not load maps that aren't for your car. It identifies your car by the ECU so it won't load a M/T map into the ECU for a 5EAT. Once installed, it is married to that car and can't be used with any other vehicle until they revert to stock by uninstalling. You can hold multiple maps for the same car, flash a base map, and then have other real time maps (i.e. 15psi, 18psi, 20psi, etc.). 3. You can download Cobbs basic maps at www.cobbtuning.com

To minimize damage until you get your tranny beefed up: 1) Never go WOT in 5th gear, 2) Always downshift before going WOT, 3) Use manual mode when screwing around, this applies higher line pressure so there's less slipping, and 4) Never Launch.

Yep, I almost always drive in either manual mode or sport mode. Drive is for tree huggers. Wanted to know however if Climber's tranny was "automatically" shifting at 7k vs. the normal red line.

Climber are you manually shifting at 7k? Mine shifts at the stock red line in automatic or sport mode. Congrats and good work by the way. Glad to see you're working through this slowly, carefully, and methodically.

1. When you install the AP it makes a backup of your original ECU so you can revert to stock. You can copy this map and all your maps to your computer for safe keeping. You still need the AP itself to either load any maps or revert to stock. 2. Bad, you might knock and wreck a piston / ringland. 3. This can be done. Might not get the full benefits of the 93 map though. 4. No, all sports mode does is raise the rev limits for shifts so you stay in a gear longer.

Not sure if this helps out with your parts quest, but Torque Solutions has a transmission mount that fits both based on M Spranks store: An easy way to improve the overall feel of the shifting experience in your Subaru M/T! Fits Both 5-Speed, & 6-Speed Models.

+1 My transmission shop told me the same thing, don't try this at home kids. The 350Z walk through I posted a long time ago in one of the other transmission threads seems straight forward enough, however adjustments are needed for the 5EAT and until TransGo or ClimberD chooses to write up instructions, you don't want to try to bumble your way through this. Take it to a shop our see if ClimberD gets up and running.

Just saw somebody else installed a TransGo shift kit in a 5EAT (its another 05). http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/transgo-kit-and-working-good-163856.html?t=163856