BigBopper

Welcome to the forum. Have you read through this thread? There's lots of good information if you dig a little deeper.

Bump: Review of Sticky Post posting criteria. http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4335861&postcount=1

Bryan stamped a production number on my housing. Look around for the number and call him up. Hopefully he will be able to identify it for you.

Send it back ...

All Members: If you haven't read this post, please take a moment to understand what the 5th Gen members were trying to achieve with the Sticky Threads. http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4335861&postcount=1

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Can you get a test flange made up similar to the one in the photo? A couple differences to consider between 4th Gen and 5th Gen BPV location. 4th Gen is after TMIC, 5th Gen is before TMIC. I can imagine any pressure drop across the TMIC of the 5th Gen would put additional demand on the OEM BPV spring to maintain good seal off, since top loading from the intake manifold could be less pressure than the turbo compressor outlet. My test was pretty much steady state, with the same amount of pressure being applied to both sides of the spring ... and it still was leaking. I noticed that with the OEM BPV, and all conditions being equal, I could only manage 17.4 psi boost, 294.0 maf g/s, wgdc @ 46.27%. Swapped to TurboSmart BPV and had no problem holding 19.6 psi boost, 317.28 maf g/s, wgdc @ 22.25%.

I agree with what you're saying here. My suggestion would be to test the OEM BPV and use it only if you're sure it will hold the target boost levels of the build (I would recommend replacing the BPV as part of any serious build). If you assume it is holding without leaking, you are just fooling yourself, and you are possibly leaving power on the table along with unnecessary stress on the turbo. I've tested my OEM BPV, that's how I know. Unfortunately, it was only after spending $$$ on Dyno time then having to troubleshoot for the reason why it wasn't meeting expectations of the build. Check here:

Kartboy Exhaust Hanger 12mm Single (BLACK) http://www2.kartboy.com/x4/image.php?type=P&id=16163 Kartboy Exhaust Hanger Single 12 mm (BLACK) 08+ Subaru Imprezas 12mm is the diameter of the center holes. 1.400" C-C Details SKU KB-011-BLACK-12mm

^ Yeah that! Don't forget about us 5th Gen LGT's.

Anyone considering replacing the rubber OEM exhaust hangers should look at the Kartboy 12mm Polyurethane Exhaust Hangers. You will need five (5) on a 5th Gen LGT. I used a exhaust hanger tool to remove the old OEM ones (well worth it if you can source one). The trick to an easy install of the stiffer Kartboys, for me, was to dump them into a bucket of hot water to soften them up. I used a small dab of white lithium grease on the ends of the hangers, and was able to push them on by hand without any drama.

Like is listed above ... They are the two (2) accordion pipes on the air intake. One crosses the frame rail and the other attaches to the air box and stationary 90* elbow. The radiator hoses are also available.

Was looking for a good strong solution to mount my AccessPort. I mated a Proto Tuning Tool Mount with a few RAM Mount components. This is what I have come up with. It's nice and solid for one handed operation.

^ Perfect!

^ They get cold in the winter. Brrrrrrrr

RacerX TMIC Wanted to share a maintenance tip with the forum. I've taken my RacerX TMIC on and off my car any number of times ... and noticed clearance is very tight between TMIC and Clutch main control cylinder assembly (see photo). To protect the TMIC from damage during installation I insert two (2) pieces of cardboard on top of clutch control cylinder. For removal of the TMIC I slip the cardboard in from underneath the car. Remember to remove the cardboard after you have completed work on the TMIC. I find this simple precaution helps when wrestling the TMIC into the proper fitment location, especially if you have removed the throttle body connector hose.

From the looks of it, it appears to be a OEM actuator (lighter body and solid rod linkage). I have a upgraded actuator from BNR, it's a bit beefier and it has adjustable linkage. Can you pressure test it to see what pressure it actually opens the wastegate? If it opens at approx. 15#, it's the upgraded actuator.

Bump ... for addition of stated guidelines within original post. Thanks for everyone's support of the Sticky Threads.

Hello All, You may have already noticed the addition of the new Sticky threads. In an effort to have informative topics of interest easily accessible, while being easily searchable ....these Sticky threads have been created. If you have a individual post that you would like moved to one of the Sticky threads .... notify SBT (Administrator) Reference links to existing informative posts will work on active threads, although I'm not sure if we would lose the link if the Main thread is closed or removed ... ? Hopefully we can reduce the amount of redundant threads and improve the navigation to information we all benefit from. Sticky Threads should be used to highlight a particular project of interest, to share with the community. Please keep general conversation and questions limited to the common areas of the forum, with quoted references to a particular Sticky post if necessary. If you find you have posted a general Q&A type post, in error, within a Sticky Thread, -- Please delete your post and re-post in the appropriate common areas of the forum. To make this work we need to have a community effort. Thanks for your help!

I have finished the install of (Infamous') IP&T's Turbo Oil Supply Line Filter Kit on my '10 LGT w/BNR TD05H/20g. This kit was developed for the 4th Gens, so I had to change up a few things, from the standard kit, to adapt it to the 5th Gen turbo setup. I used (2) two 16" oil lines and made it work, along with some stainless bolts and silicone covered straps. Thought this might be helpful for anyone going down a similar path.

Yes, it's a modified AEM 65mm Short Ram Intake w/custom fabricated enclosure.

The purpose of this thread is to consolidate all technical posts related to the 5th Gen LGT - Performance Modifications. Please help us maintain the stated purpose of this thread. To start off, I wanted to post a topic of recent interest within the 5th Gen community. Crawford Air/Oil Separator (Installation Reference) Disclaimer: Since a model specific AOS kit was not available from Crawford, for the 5th Gen LGT back in April 2012 when I did this install, I am offering up this information as an example of how I installed the Crawford AOS on my LGT. Hope you find it a useful reference. Duplicate at your own risk. First off: Is this something you will be doing yourself? Where do you plan to mount the AOS? If you haven't already studied up on the installation instructions from the Crawford site, it would be good to check out some of the various model instructions, to become familiar with how they are installed. This will help you understand some of the photo's of my 5th Gen LGT installation. If you are going to try to replicate my install, I wouldn't recommend the Universal Kit, (even though Crawford may suggest that to you) I didn't like the mounts ... very generic looking. Of course, your choice though. I used the AOS model: Air / Oil Separator V2 - 05-09 LGT OEM Turbo Location Kit, and also ordered the extension adapter mounting plate directly from Crawford. The only things I used out of the kit were the AOS and the "Y" adapter fitting for the crankcase vent & drain connections. Although some of the pre-cut hoses in the kit may fit the 5th Gen install, I decided to source all the hose, clamps and everything else needed to complete my installation. The following photo's are not necessarily in the actual installation order, since at the time, I hadn't thought of posting up a installation thread. Nevertheless, I hope it will be helpful to those going down a similar path. REVISION: 04/05/13 I have decided to modify the water jacket source supply/return lines on my AOS installation. After reviewing the fitment of the new charge pipe being developed by RacerX, and the actual function of the water jacket thru the AOS, I decided to make the change. Added benefits: (1) Maintain normal (OEM) water jacket coolant flow path thru the turbocharger. (2) Free up additional space for charge pipe replacement. (3) Provide adequate heated circulating flow thru AOS from a less critical water jacket path.

No starvation issues. Found some excessive radial end play in the turbo journal bearings after only 600 miles on the turbo, 500 were clutch break-in period (no flogging or boost), 100 were to/from and inclusive of my dyno tune session. Sent turbo back to Bryan @ BNR for inspection, and he found the journal bearings had been contaminated and was the cause of the issue. Turbo has been returned to pristine fresh condition. So, to answer your question ... I had been debating about upgrading the turbo oil line and having an easily accessible inline turbo oil filter, so I took the opportunity to modify a kit that Mike S had developed for the 4th Gens, and made it work on the my 5th Gen, while I was putting things back together. Bryan (BNR) and Mike Sprank (Infamous) have recommended this type of oil line/filter configuration on turbo upgrades for years, especially for those customers that had suffered turbo failures. ^ Bryan has seen his share of turbos that have met their demise over oil starvation and contamination issues ... it makes sense. ^ I agree... just good business practice.

BigBopper Pittsburgh, PA '10 LGT Sedan Ruby Red Pearl

Posted up a modification to my LGT's turbo oil supply line. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/bolt-up-turbocharger-upgrade-vol-2-200523.html?p=4295603#post4295603