Markbo

Cut down & beveled a bolt yesterday about an inch long. That should work fine.

Scott FYI I have replaced the up with an INvidia. It has a bung for the EGT. I found a M12x1.25 bolt. But the shortest one I could find is about 3" long. I will cut it down to about an inch and hope I can get the threads cleaned up enough.

Ok.. bad place for a sensor. Could damage turbo. Do this when stage 2 and up pipe replaced. All good. Nobody has staed...what do you plug the bung hole with? If it should be rekoved you dony want to leave an open hole.

Need to find someone with a modern laser computerized system. Inch standard is OLD technology. It should all be in degrees and with a computerized system since you have an altered suspension they should be happy to do it to your specs since the computer will show green (in spec) based solely on a stock suspension. With your specs it is much less hassle for the tech and they should appreciate it.

Absolutely not...spend the few dollars and go get a proper alignment!

For anyone not familiar it is important that the D seal be seated in the correct orientation. The brake fluid actually acts a lube to get it all back together smoothly then a complete system bleed is required - in the correct order or the brakes may not work correctly.

Cant you demand they replace those lines? If they wont do ut I would replace them anyway. Cheap insurance against catastrophic failure

Covert I am certainly no A/C guy... what did that sticker come off of? Do those numbers apply to all vehicles or Subaru only? Reason I ask is every time I asked out A/C guy at the last shop I worked what was the ideal pressure in whatever car he was working on, his response was always "It depends". According to your graph here it is cut and dry.

There are two Banjo bolt filters on my 05 Legacy. I took them both out, I removed both filters and I replaced the bolts in place. So I guess I don't know what I am talking about either.

He does? He didn't when I got mine last Christmas. And Storm since it is required by BNR to have a warranty, why not upgrade it? The stock line is a known problem. Both my banjo bolt filters were dirty... not completely clogged, but very dirty. Getting rid of them solves one problem the filtered unit takes care of.

Why do you want to get the boost down?

IS it possible switch DRLs to the fog lights?

Yes Sir, thus only 237HP. I was pleasantly surprised at the torque number though. My local tuner also pushed the upgraded TMIC very hard... says it makes a big difference even after fuel system upgrade. I don't know what final boost level I will get to, but it won't be maxed out. This is my DD and it has some miles on it. Another reason to watch the BarMan's closely as he is close to what I have, but a bit more with his exhaust.

That's what I thought. So 230/270 is OK. Just FYI SBT here is my equipment list: BNR 16G turbo Perrin intake Invidia Catless Up pipe CNT Catted Down pipe IP&T -4 High flow oil supply line and return, 10 micron inline oil filter with filters removed from banjo bolts. All new hoses Locally tuned Awaiting installation: DW 850cc injectors DW 65C Fuel pump Upgraded TMIC

Isn't what I have a stage 2 until I add the injectors and pump?

True on the oil line BUT it is capable of much more power with a few add ons and proper tuning. Mine got 237/275 HP/torque on stock injectors and fuel pump. Expect to get significantly more with new ones and new intake.

I bought a 16G from him around Christmas. Prompt, extremely helpful and great follow up as well, including an issue I had with an aftermarket oil supply line he had recommended.

I can't tell. Put a long screwdriver blade on the turbo and press the handle against your ear. It should be easy to tell if it's coming from the turbo that way.

Excellent, excellent write up! And great photography too!

Might b e worn struts too. FYI that wear pattern will not get better... once worn into the tire it stays in the tire, but it is less noticeable in the rear.

Please follow up. That code is "suppposed" to be bad, bad news.

What does this oil analysis cost anyway?

I really appreciate that link. I will admit I have not read every line, but one thing keeps bugging me.. .the authors cop out on Prolong: "But, keep in mind that I only test an oil’s “Wear Protection Capability”. That provides the information that people usually care about most. However, that data is limited to ONLY wear protection capability, and does NOT provide any information as to how compatible overall this product’s chlorine may be with a given oil’s additive package. Chlorine and additive package incompatibility has the potential to result in corrosion issues. Contact Prolong’s maker for more information on compatibility." Given how much time he talks about how thorough & professional he is, surely he has knowledge about Prolongs compatibility without having to get it FROM Prolong, which is one of the major problems - believing information supplied by the manufacturers! He also does not cover the dozen or so other additives that I am aware of nor all the others that I am sure I am not aware of... why just these two?

Well you had a press for the bushings. Do you work in a repair shop?

That's how I did mine. FWIW at 130K my cam seals have just barely started leaking.