bobglaub

I have ELH, STI uppipe, and a catless downpipe. My car sounds like absolute shit. when revs are going down. there's a range of about 1500-2000 rpms where it'ss raspy as hell. I hate it, but i'm too poor to change out hardware currently. Get a catted downpipe, get an exhaust. Just my 2 cents.

I'm a little late to the party, but you can always scour craigslist and ebay. There's a guy just up north of me that salvaged and parts out subarus, he always has something. He posts stuff on craigslist.

Good morning, afternoon, evening everyone. I just put on a JDM front end on my 05 LGT wagon, and now with the jdm crash bar the racerx FMIC doesn't fit. Anybody have an experience with this and what to do? I'm running a vf48 so I can't easily just go back to TMIC. My own thoughts: I could cut up my original USDM bar to put under the bumper. I saw Krispy do that on his car back in 2017 (i re-watched the video yesterday). I could build a custom crashbar, but i haven't got any metal working tools and I'm in an apartment for the next few months so none of that sounds fun. Thanks in advance.

I want this so bad. Mine got wrecked last night due to someone rear ending me. This would make a most excellent replacement.

Bought a 2007 xterra. Manual Transmission. shipping the LGT to WA will be $1245. Haven't decided if i'll sell it up here or ship it and store it at my Mom's place in ID, then come back for it once we're settled in Maine. That's a decision for next week.

Maybe happier but much much poorer. Uhauls from Alaska to Maine aren't cheap. And they have a 2 week limit then you're charged extra per day. We are going to take our time and enjoy the drive vs long haul speed run it. That's no way to enjoy a road trip. That said, we are going to long haul through Canada, since they don't want us there. that's fine, but once in America we're taking it real easy and seeing the sights. Uhauls are restrictive and expensive for our adventure. I am now looking at buying a 4runner or xterra or something smalll, but has better tow capability and higher clearance. LGT will either get shipped to family in idaho, sold, or stored and retrieved later.

Weird request probably, but i have an 05 LGT Wagon. Looking to move 6000 miles away and we bought a trailer. I'll be pulling said trailer with said car. I've done a few runs to the landfill and goodwill, and while the car does just fine, the rear sag is too much for my liking. I've seen the saggy butt spacers, but those are only like 1/2 an inch before you need to swap out the studs. i figure if I'm going to get spring compressors and do that whole job, maybe it'd be better to just throw some outback coils and springs on it. I found some Will those work, and if so, will they raise the car, and if they do, will i need additional things for the geometry to work out? I will of course get an alignment after the install. I did also find some lift springs that fit on the outback struts, something else I'd like to do, unless they would fit on the struts i have now, that'd be ideal. Anybody have any ideas on the best option? Ideally, I'd just like the saggy butt spacers and stiffer springs. Seems all i can find for legacy's are lowering springs. I looked on Subaru and the struts and springs are obviously different part numbers for the Legacy and Outback. Thanks in advance.

Throwing in my experience. I threw in the cheapest radiator I found find from rockauto. Works great except in 2 situations. High speed highway runs in 4th and 5th gear. When climbing a steep grade at low speeds. I'm talking 10% or more. She would overheat pretty quickly. If I could keep my speed up over 25 it was fine. But the road this happened on was a high traffic diet road and everybody wants to go 10. I have recently switched to a koyorad and I do not have these issues.

I had to replace my optima red top last year. The old one had a sticker on it from 06. I'm assuming that means it was 14 years old? But that can't be right can it? The new one also has a sticker that says 20. Do batteries last that long?

Removed headers and uppipe. Uppipe completely cracked around turbo flange. Got a brand new one from a guy on the local facebook group for $20. ALMOST fit. I'm talking 1-2mm. Turbo flange was slightly off. Had to pull the turbo out and I elongated the hole so the stud would fit. Just got the turbo back in. Gotta put the uppipe, headers and downpipe back on tomorrow morning. Turns out I miss wrenching on the car. Turbo was a bitch as usual, but not as bad as I remember. Oil drain is cake with the uppipe off. I'll keep that in mind.

Turns out I'm blind. I see the bolts now. For whatever reason my brain didn't process them in the picture. I'll blame it on lack of sleep lately. I did get my OEM sub installed. I'm not an audio nut, I just needed a little more bass and I got a good deal on the sub. Works great.

I've swapped a few turbos in my day on this and on my 05 STI that i've since sold. When you say bold to uppipe, do you mean install turbo adn uppipe together as one? i could see that being much easier dealing with that inlet since if memory serves its' teh uppipe that gets in my way when trying to get the oil tube where it belongs. I will defintely do this if i have to. Still the turbo inlet is a bit of a pain too. if i do have to remove the turbo, i'm going to pull the intake off because i refuse to fight with my car any more than i need to. I'd rather spend hours taking it apart and putting it back together if it makes the job easier in the long run. I appreciate your suggestion. i'm not looking forward to crawling around under the car today, but it needs doin'.

yeah no worries. I made an account there but can't comment yet. I finally bought me an OEM Subwoofer to go under my seat, it arrived today. Will be installing it as soon as i'm done with work. I also have a dashcam I need to install, but that's a tomorrow project. Also tomorrow on the list is tracking down the exhaust leak. super fun. I really hope i don't have to pull the turbo. I hate pulling turbos on these cars. pulling them isn't so bad. it's the re-installation that gets me. that blasted oil return line gets me everytime.

I'm much too lazy to figure out how to post pics but will if needed. Here's an IG link with a couple photos.. You can do what you want with them. https://www.instagram.com/p/CLr630ysTaN/?igshid=sv3hucip01wu

Yeah rack leaks. It's got 170,000 miles on it. it's time for a rebuild or replacement. That would actually be awesome if you did write that up. I was toying with the idea of throwing in a 2015+ sti 13:1 rack, but i can't justify the cost at this time. I'd be all for rebuilding it. That's where it sounds like it's coming from, but i couldn't source it exactly. It was my thinking as well since the stock A/F sensor and all my logs are spot on. I'm going to buy some gaskets and pull the whole thing apart this weekend. Not looking forward to it but sometimes it's what needs to be done.

Turns out my amazon special tires started dying. Tread was becoming detached from the core on the inside. I only noticed because I got a flat and reached around to see if I could feel anything. Giant slit all the way exposing the wires. 3 out of my 4 tires were doing it. So today was an expensive day. But now I have real tires not some crappy achilles or whatever garbage I had on it. I do know I paid $330 for all 4 of them so I knew they weren't great. I have what sounds like an exhaust leak, and my wideband I think is lying to me. At idle it's reporting extremely lean, but my regular a/f is reporting fine according to my logs. Seems whenever the radiator fans kick on it sounds like I have an exhaust leak, but I can't source it. So today was a lot of wrenching and crawling around and finding power steering and oil leaks. Looks like I already have a lot of projects for the summer.

I thought i sent a PM last night, but I'm not seeing it in my sent folder. Interested in the Clock Relocation bracket thing. Re-sent a PM

https://m.imgur.com/a/dzldqEI This is how I did it. With a couple changes. USB dac cashed issues, so I got a Bluetooth adaptor (linked below). I use the hotspot on my phone for internet, tablet connects via Bluetooth to the amp, and boom. It works great. Wouldn't do it any other way. I'm about to buy btssm off the play store tomorrow; I've just been lazy. I think the Nexus 7 won't have any issues processing it. It's old yes, but it's not like it's doing a lot of work, it's just displaying information on the screen. Then again, I haven't tried it yet. I will test tonight and edit this post again. If you check the site, it says Tactrix with CAN is the best, but CAN is only available for 2007+ models. K-line is what i've used in the past and it's what i'll use in the future because i've got an 05. Not sure what year your car is. I love my tactrix. I've used it to tune multiple cars, it's paid for itself hands down. https://www.crutchfield.com/S-DtnfwHgV6UN/p_13691126/JL-Audio-MBT-RX.html https://btssm.com/ https://www.tactrix.com/

I put a stock block into mine when I killed mine. Had the heads rebuilt at a shop, did the rest of the work myself. If you can't do the work yourself, there's usually some other shop that can do the work, there's a guy up here where I live that charges around $3200. Stock blocks are affordable and unless you're running big power, just go stock. I'm slightly above stock power but it does just fine. Stock is good for what, 400 crank? 450? I forget. But it can handle plenty. A performance shop up here quoted me around 9k for everything. That's how I found the guy who does it for $3200. Actually found him on a local Subaru Facebook group. I needed to redo all my oil components due to a spun bearing/seized engine, so I did it myself. Mostly just because I enjoy doing it and learning how. Max Capacity told me to go with a stock block. I'm glad I did. It was worth it. In Alaska it was $2250-ish, but you southerners can get them for around $1750 I'm told.

Looks so good.

No idea what numbers i'm running, but I do keep up with evo 8's and i did a highway pull on a 5 series BMW (not an m5) as well as an evo 10. I was faster than both of them. New Shortblock rebuilt heads cheap ass rockauto gasket kit. I know. i know. my headgaskets are on borrowed time. ARP headstuds DIY TGV delete vf48 EBCS FMIC Racerx ELH catless uppipe 3" catless DP Water Methanol Injection running alaska washer fluid (because alaska has garbage gas and 90 octane is the best we can get) Stock clutch, also bought off rockauto. it slips when i launch hard, but only in 1st and i'd rather have that be my weakest point than my transmission. Tuned by https://www.shinjituned.com/ I can't say enough good things about this tuner. He's tuned 3 of my cars and he will tune my next one. I want to say Romraider told me i was getting just over 260 HP, but i really don't know how to use the dyno portion of that. Perhaps it was doing it wrong, or maybe i'm not and that's where i am. I just know which cars in town i'm faster than. And isn't that all that really matters?

I just follow you on IG. Love your car and your build.

Been quiet on the car front. But on Friday my harmonic balancer gave up and died. Separated at the rubber ring area. 165,000 was too much. Ordered a Grimmspeed lightweight one and threw it on. I assumed the project would be difficult but took less than 30 minutes to remove and install. Threw on a couple new belts as well. Might be placebo, but I swear it's easier to rev match now when downshifting.

Just going to throw in my 2 cents here. I have a vf48 which I'm told is similar to the vf52. Stock fueling, but I did swap out the fuel control module for an STI one. At my power levels that doesn't even matter though. I'm running water methanol (Alaska only has 90 octane), FMIC, EBSC, Downpipe, and TGV delete. Got it e-tuned with my taxtrix and she runs so good. I'm also on a new OEM ej257 shortblock with rebuilt heads because somebody ran her low on oil and bad things happened. Get the vf52, it'll really wakes the car up. But be sure you get it tuned.

Clean the crap out of the house and off the TB. Spray hairspray on the inside of the hose. Clamp it down. That will keep it on. Cheaper the better. I use aqua-net for all my hose needs. Read that on a forum somewhere when my TB hose helpt popping off. Haven't had it pop off since.