Strizzy

Awesome! Let me know if/when you want me to send out my broken one.

Any update on this?

I just got word back from the machine shop that the block I dropped off if perfectly good to use 99.5mm pistons with a very light hone.

I will be going with CP 9.0:1 compression pistons.

My crank and rods are good to be re-used.

The machine shop will get the correct ACL bearings.

I am going with Supertech standard size intake valves and standard size inconel exhaust valves.

The heads are getting ported as well.

I will be keeping my Tomei 252/252 cams.

I am also swapping to a N/A aluminum intake manifold, then using AVO's N/A turbo kit piping from my FMIC to the intake manifold. So no custom piping has to be made. Everything should be easy to bolt together.

After driving a 700whp STI with an Exedy triple disk unsprung clutch last night, I really want to put one in my car. That is by FAR the BEST feeling clutch I've ever driven. Feels like stock, or even slightly less pedal pressure. But since my twin disc is still perfectly good, I'll stick with that for now.

And my KillerB oil baffle tray broke.

This is how it came off the block when I removed the oil pan.

http://www.strizzyphoto.com/photos/i-8T7qSp9/0/L/i-8T7qSp9-L.jpg

So.... Where to start?

I got about 10k miles into the motor. The last 3k miles were on E85.

Was hitting a long straight (track) and around 130-140mph (high engine load), something hiccuped and lost power and boost. With all the symptoms, it looked to be a head gasket failure. After the engine was torn apart, things became more apparent. I had some sort of massive detonation in cylinder 2 that blew a hole through the side of the piston and blew out the head gasket.

http://www.strizzyphoto.com/photos/i-6v3zSqT/0/L/i-6v3zSqT-L.jpg

http://www.strizzyphoto.com/photos/i-9hc7hjg/1/L/i-9hc7hjg-L.jpg

http://www.strizzyphoto.com/photos/i-XGVsJZn/0/L/i-XGVsJZn-L.jpg

The tip of the spark plug melted

http://www.strizzyphoto.com/photos/i-w29rFnQ/0/L/i-w29rFnQ-L.jpg

And to top it off, one of my cams broke again. Exactly like the last one, but this one is a different cam.

My car was tuned for 20psi, since my fueling at the moment couldn't handle the higher flow required for E85 at higher boost.

I've got a couple stock EJ25 blocks on hand, and one of them looks good enough to do a light hone for a set of 99.5mm drop in pistons.

I will also be going with new valves, springs, and retainers.

I am looking at my options for larger cams.

And I will probably do a mild port on my heads.

My crank and rods are still perfect, so those will be reused.

I just need to decide what compression ratio pistons I want to use with my D25 heads. I will exclusively be running E85.

Did it look like this?

http://www.strizzyphoto.com/Other/Subaru/i-87X7wv6/0/L/IMG586234tonemapped-L.jpg

If so, that's mine

Probably should update my "clutch" issue.

Clutch didn't go out. I snapped a rear axle. No one makes a stronger replacement for the specB's, so OEM axle went back in. There will be a stronger option coming soon though.

My clutch is still acting a little funny since the track, so I have replacement discs in hand ready to swap when the time comes.

Car is now at the body shop getting the driver side rear door fixed from my neighbor sliding into me during the winter.

OEM stopped holding stage 2 after 10k miles. Exedy HD stopped holding my 20G after about 1500 miles. Stage 3 Comp Clutch couldn't hold during my first logging pull. Exedy sprung twin disc stopped holding after 6k miles and 30ish launches.

4 engines if I include the original.

12.3? I was hoping for more

I was too, but my clutch was acting up (slipping quite a bit, then semi welded itself to the flywheel, as I couldn't get into gear unless the car was off. (Which also makes for a fun time starting the car )).

Then yesterday the clutch finally gave out mid-shift 1st-2nd. I thought my trans dropped from the car.

I'm either going to rebuild this one, or try an ACT 6 puck.

Event: Real Street Drags

Loaction: Great Lakes Dragway

Date: 05/18/2012

Ambient Temp: 60

Elevation: 770'

Weather: Clear

http://www.strizzyphoto.com/photos/i-LDK9PQ8/0/XL/i-LDK9PQ8-XL.jpg

Event: Real Street Drags

Loaction: Great Lakes Dragaway

Date: 05/18/2012

Ambient Temp: 60

Elevation: 770'

Weather: Clear

Car: 2008 Legacy spec.B

Transmission: 6MT

Tuner: Built by Six Star Motorsports

Peak Horse Power at RPM: 429 @ 6500

Peak Torque at RPM: 385 @ 5100

Fuel: 100

Engine/Power Modifications: ATP GTX3076R stock location, Perrin 3" inlet, KStech 83mm intake, AVO FMIC, ID1000's, Aeromotive 340, Agency Power fuel rails and lines, CP 100mm pistons, Manley rods, STI nitrated crank, Tomei 252/252 poncams, Tomei EL headers, GTSpec EWG UP, Turbosmart 45mm EWG, CNT catless DP,

Driveline Modifications:Exedy sprung twin disc clutch, helical front LSD, GroupN trans mount bushing

Suspension Modifications: Cusco Zero2 coilovers

Other Modifications: Rota SVN 18 x 8.5 +45, 245/40/18 Falken Azenis RT-615k, removed spare tire and tools

http://www.strizzyphoto.com/photos/i-tzX8ShJ/0/X2/i-tzX8ShJ-X2.jpg

http://www.strizzyphoto.com/photos/i-LDK9PQ8/0/XL/i-LDK9PQ8-XL.jpg

He bought a second fuel pump controller, split the control lines, and fed each pump from a separate controller (each pulling battery power, though, not trying to drive two pumps through stock wiring for one).

 

As for injectors:

 

http://www.injectordynamics.com/ID2000.html

So just another OEM unit would be needed? Like this one? http://compare.ebay.com/like/280855097470?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&_lwgsi=y&cbt=y

Along with a second Aeromotive 340 with dual in-tank pump setup like something from Full Blown?

Was your friend able to run pump93 when needed? My friend with his stupid big build is running strictly E85 with ID2000s. But he has an Aeromotive 340 feeding a surge tank with two Bosch 044's. Our tuner was saying something about the 32-bit ECU can't lower the injector pulse width enough to get the car to idle on pump93. But because E85 requires ~30% more fuel, the injectors can idle the car just fine.

I need to be able to run 93 when E isn't available, as I drive a lot.

ID1600s are discontinued. I have a friend with 1400s from Five-O Motorsports with a flowchart that shows them flowing like 1600s.

Would you be able to point me in the direction of the fuel pump controller you mentioned?

Switching to E is something I would like to do within the next month.

Here's a quick acceleration test. No, this was not done on an open road. I have access to a private airstrip. Yes, it's as fun as you think it would be. No, it's not like the Top Gear test course.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g86sMuYwR94]Acceleration - YouTube[/ame]

Note:

I had about 300+ lbs of extra weight in the car.

Would love some more info and a dyno sheet for this if possible.

Stupidly long parts list that I'll have to get from him tomorrow. Here is his Dyno sheet from yesterday though.

his second pull he blew the coolant reservoir and had to end the run early. We thought he separated his heads again. He's pushing 35psi.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y36/ddejaege/dyno05-06-12.jpg

It seems to me that the 'happy' rev range on your setup and mine are about the same width as stock, they just start and end 1000 RPM later. So it doesn't take long to adjust to it. But I'm pretty sure there's an additional 1000 RPM of usable power on the other side of my rev limiter, and there's gotta be just as much with your setup.

 

So at some point I'm going to try to figure out what it would take to safely run it up to 8000 or maybe 8500. But I try not to think about it. If I stare at the marshmallow, I end up eating the marshmallow...

 

This might sound strange but the most appealing thing about a higher rev limit is that I'd be able to feel the power drop off as the turbo ran out of breath. I actually miss the little drop in power that the stock turbo had. That told me when to shift, without thinking about it. With a setup that holds power all the way to the top, shifting just before the limit requires conscious effort and planning ahead, and it feels like a distraction, instead of being something that just comes naturally.

 

I guess cutting WGDC above 6500 RPM would solve that problem for less money. Maybe I'll do that instead.

A friend of mine built his motor to be very rev happy. He can rev to 9500 is desired, but around 8750, his oil pressure starts to drop.

He destroked his 2.5 block with a 2.0 crank, sleeved the block, and bored it to bring his displacement back up to 2.5L. He made 610whp and 598wtq on the dyno yesterday. He's also running a massive HTA86. But he literally has a 5k RPM power band and can break the tires loose in 4th gear. That car is just plain scary.

I have some future plans for slighty bigger cams and some minor head work. Not sure when I'll get around to that though, as I am extremely happy with where I am now. I also feel that my 7k redline is perfect for this setup.

I'm still debating on the switch to E85. I might just get a FPR and up the pressure and see where that can get me. I would like a bit more torque.