underground000

I think it may be less then we think. I didnt feel a difference at any rpm under any throttle. I do have the trans bushing insert installed also. Still shifted smooth

Maybe we dont feel it cause theres more in the trans to make it shift smooth. ex: the pistons have cushioning springs to make the engagement of gears smooth and not slam into gears, remove a few of the springs and it will engage rougher = less heat and longitivity

I did not adjust TP angle

1st increased the chart equally until the 100 Accel Position was at 490, loaded map and went for test drive, felt nothing still shifted smooth. Came back and started to smell something burning, I think its oil because I went to Pepboys for oil change and I dont quite trust them 100%. Hopefully its not the clutches burning after the full throttle shifting at mid/low rpms

2nd increased everything across the board except 1st 2 columns. All other columns was adjusted to 490 (in S# mode) went out for test drive in S#, didnt feel anything, still shifted smooth.

Maybe the prob was I just loaded the map and the car didnt adjust to yet to the current map. Will do another test drive tomorrow after I put a few miles on the car

Here are the tables from Cobb Cali Stage 1

Si-Drive: Intelligent, Sport, Sport #

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt49/underground000/intel.png?t=1287119591

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt49/underground000/Sport.png?t=1287119594

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt49/underground000/sharp.png?t=1287119592

That is the same table I am referring to. It says so right in the part of the vacation pics that talks about trans control. TCU references 4 values including "REQUESTED TORQUE" to determine target line pressure. That is the exact table.

Awesome, so my $400 seems to be a good use for the AP so far:lol:

So what should I do if you dont mind helping me. The max number AccessTUNER Race allows is 500 - which rpms and accel position to change

edit: I didnt read Vaca Pix

And since this is easy for me to edit (plug and play) Ill make changes and load to AP and test the car and report back to you guys

edit again: Was away from my computer for a day and I missed soo much on the last page. I skimed through it earlier, reading through it now

Any idea if AccessPort has a similar table? I currently have an AP tune..

In AccessTUNER Race, theres 'Gear Determination' - Dont think it has anything to do with line pressure.

Under 'Throttle Tuning': - Again I dont think it controls line pressure, numbers start dropping after 2800rpm

'Requested Torque A - Intelligent'

'Requested Torque A - Sport'

'Requested Torque A - Sport #'

'Requested Torque B - Intelligent'

'Requested Torque B- Sport'

'Requested Torque B - Sport #'

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt49/underground000/acc.png?t=1287099720

I'm fairly certain all you need to do is scale up your Requested Torque table in Romraider. It tells the TCU how much line pressure to apply at any given mph and rpm per reasonable and unreasonable trans fluid temp.

Unless I'm getting a road tune by Infamous I'm not going to buy a $150 cable for my 08 car just for increased line pressure

What do you need tested? And i'll see if i can get at my TCU this weekend and get some pics, is 05' new enough?

The resister mod the bump up the line pressure

If you want to try it, I'll buy and ship you the resistor out of the TCU test fund.

 

PM me with shipping info and how agressive you want to go for. If you're hesitant on soildering I can prep it to be a quick cut-and-crimp install.

Its ok, its not that expensive to do

Ill be delayed again cause I have to go to Colorado next week:redface: Unless I do it by the end of this week

Oct bump!!

I kind of forgot about the resistor mod, Ill check and see if my local audio shop has one for cheap and may try it out.

A nabisco guy with 4eat said he was having cel with the ipt resistor (he had full ipt trans built) so ipt removed it and he said that made the most difference (that he can feel)

It also looks like one could interfere with the resistance of the temp sensor outputs in the transmission, since they will directly increase the line pressure, the colder they read.

You cant just adjust the temp sensor, you will have to adjust lockup also. If you make it read really cold the car will never go into lock up

This would be awesome. I am glad we are going somewhere with this, not just for the 05-07 guys, but also to 08-09 guys too. I really hope this program can be updated to suite our needs on increasing line pressure, and decreasing the amount of time it takes to change gears.

We all 3rd gen owners want this to happen. I do not have a cable so I do not know if this will work for 08+, 08+ TCU is different, hopefully it will still read it

Heres the Pic

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt49/underground000/diff.png?t=1283555828

What happens is the rear changes gear ratios to equal the front 50/50 or a larger rear gear?? for the 45/55 split. The front gear never changes

Heres the center diff

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=74688&d=1255734800

Cool. AWD Clutch Torque is possibly the torque sent to the viscous clutch used to distribute power between front and back for the 5EAT? IRRC, the AWD system used with the 5EAT is slightly different in that regard to the 5MT/6MT AWD system..

 

Wonder if this would let you put the car into RWD (FWD?) mode?

Not possible for RWD, the unless you can unlock the front gears in the diff. The torque split work by giving the rear a different gear but the front stays the same. If you look at a diagram on how our center diff works youll understand, Ill find a pic on how it works

You can put it in full FWD, put a fuse in the fuse box under the hood, but dont go more than 45? for less then xx miles

I would guess the clutch torque is for the front/rear torque split (center diff). Theres only 2 setting for torque split for the 5eat. Normal 45/55 front/rear, when theres tire slip it becomes 50/50

Or maybe its what we're looking for - line pressure!!

only guesses

Does anybody know if the hoop scoop insert pops out i was thinking of painting it black

This for 08+

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt49/underground000/hood.png?t=1283051707

Bump, anyone tried the resistor mod?? Im away from my car for another 2 weeks:mad:

Heres a link to a guy selling the resistor on eBay, or Im sure you can try an audio shop

I may try the resistor mod, I can try to measure the resistance of the solenoid

Anyone know what wire color/pin # the solenoid wire is for 08+ tcu? Dont know if the vaca pics help when I was skimming through it

hmm so IPT charges $1200 (if you drive there) to do a resistor mod?

 

i'll have to look to see if there are any mechanical aspects changed besides increased line pressure...it escapes me at the moment

they also prob change the spool valve springs and open an orifice(s)

 

Oh, and pin 9 on B54 (the left connector on the TCU) is the one for the line pressure solenoid. Lower current though the solenoid = more pressure. IPT may have been putting the resistor in line (not sure on this!), but based on some of the documentation I've been reading the 5AT(5EAT)'s TCU will try and output a particular current. If you put the resistor inline, the TCU will try and correct it out. You'll probably get a slightly lower current, but not as much as if you put it in parallel.

So do you guys think I should put the resistor inline or parallel:confused:

Im 1 step close to the resistor mod, bought this to extract the pin. (would of came in handy when doing navi wire grounding w/out cutting)

I just need to see how the pin is held in the harness for me to remove it

I may try this, I bought a tool to extract the wire from the connection harness (again I do not want to cut the wire) hopefully the tool works.

1. Buy the resistor, theres a guy on ebay selling a 5pack for $10 - I know its a hit/miss on ebay

2. Hopefully a pc power supply pin plugs into the tcm wire harness

3. I need to know the pin# and/or the color of the wire to splice

When and if I do this Ill report back with the results, if i feel a difference

the link from the guy im most likey buying from ebay

yea $300 for the resistor and $400 for valve job:lol:

if someone didnt go back and forthso many times and waste their time to switch resistors it might be cheaper:lol:jk