theflystyle

My thought is as long as there is no adjustment with the bolts (eccentric) no alignment should be required. I will replace the other rear lateral links at my own pace in the warmer weather without getting an alignment after. Just completed the frozen rear toe bolt removal. What a PITA. A word to the wise and I am glad I did, order replacement parts for everything. I had the arm with the new bushings, bolts, washers, etc. The non-adjustable bolt connecting to the rear knuckle was spinning in place and the bushing had to be pressed out while on the car. Ugh. Car is aligned now and my brand new winter wheels are on.

I am in the about to hack out the rear frozen toe bolts, install new lateral links and then get an alignment. I plan on eventually installing new bushings in the other rear suspension components but wanted to know if I could do those without requiring another alignment. Specifically referring to the other two lateral links and the rear trailing arm.

Necrobump. Has anyone tried using a bolt/nut splitter to remove one of the nuts and then hammer the bolt through?

Sold

new user, first post and that version 12 text looks a little too clear to me

didnt realize he hasent been online since April. Everything ok?

Last change before going to junkyard

I believe to be having issues with a popping sound coming from these ball joints. I installed the Mevo LCA a while ago and I wish I installed OEM ball joints at that point.

I love my 3.0R. Just wish I had more time to work on it. That aside, I am contemplating moving on to a full electric... Decisions Decisions.

Bump

Bumpity - Price added.

Just send me an offer, no harm no foul.

Bump. Any takers?

Video of engine running (unable to upload to this site) https://photos.app.goo.gl/eL7eZgUr6AKqk6Ck7

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​It saddens me to post this but its her time. The car has been in my family's possession since ~16k miles when we bought her. She is currently at 251k but still going. She has been a daily driver her whole life and recently didn't pass Virginia state inspection mostly due to a leaking steering rack. That along with my parents retirement looming and already having other cars means it doesn't make sense to make the fixes to keep her. I know the transmission was changed about 10 years ago and it shifts smoothly today. There are EDM glass headlights as well as WRX (think 2002?) rims. Python remote start is installed and still working (remotes included). There is an Aiwa head-unit and Kenwood speakers but its been a little quirky and plays at a low volume. The clear coat is peeling in and there is rust in the usual places. The windows work, side mirror controls do not, NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS, the A/C does not work and the door cards have seen better days. Overall the interior is still in good condition based on age. The alternator and radiator have been replaced in the past few years.​ The mouse belts also still work.​ I have a video of the car running at idle and it is very vibration free and runs smoothly. Regular oil changes have been performed her whole life. Asking $500 OBO - just want a good home and please ask any questions you have.

I have another data-point to add... I noticed my flange bolt, the one that pinches the ball joint to the knuckle was continuing to spin even after reaching what should have become the end of the threads. I attempted use a re-threading kit with no success but I did have a bolt that was nearly identical but with "meatier" threads. I installed this slightly longer/bigger bolt into the knuckle with no issues and the clunking/clicking from that side is gone. I already have a new knuckle and will be installing it shortly but I didn't realize I needed the sleeve for the ball joint to go into the aluminum LCA.

I have been going through the same process in my head except I have an 08 3.0R with your mileage. I love the car but but you should still be considering the maintenance that would be needed even a car that's a few years newer. I would suggest if you could swing it to get something a little newer.

I saw the same video, Australian guy IIRC. Also, that guy in Barbados that did the tuning seems to be gone now? He was the de-facto tuner for the NAs

Did you use anything to clean the aluminum bits? I have the whole rear set from a SpecB waiting to go in but I want to clean them up before install. Did you think about coating them with any protectant as well?

Dont forget about control arm bushings, ball joints, end links and tie rod ends while you are at it

Mine failed in two places so dirt got under it and started to peel. It is a tedious process but make sure to have some 3M general adhesive remover. I left the bumper covered as its still decent. The paint was protected and I would not hesitate to do it again. Just need to lightly polish the paint then Ill he happy

Remove 10+ year old 3M clear bra from the hood

Love this car

So which model CSF radiator would work for the Legacy?