PutnamCO

I did a TSK3 with my last clutch. It's a very good idea that's peace of mind knowing you won't have to pull the tranny anytime soon.

For sure, his email is mdstatts@hotmail.com You can also give him a call at 303 818-4253 (his name is Matt) Here's his quote from the post for clutch repair: Clutch - (turbo car $398 labor $423 clutch set) (non-turbo $345 labor $269 clutch set) Here's the original post (#229): http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/colorado-recommended-businesses-90993.html?p=3801376&highlight=max+automotive#post3801376

I'd recommend Max Automotive too, but I'm also biased. I talked to him today, and he could do your clutch tomorrow.

The rear bolts are a bit of a pain, but you can get them all by following the above advice. PM me your e-mail address if you want the step-by-step instructions Killer B sent me when I pulled mine.

Glad to provide the info, I can't believe I didn't think of putting him on here sooner. He lets me use his second lift on weekends to work on my car, and he's taught me a great deal. He'll be at the next SCCA autocross, and will be coming to some track days with me at HPR. He drives a sick, black 300 SRT8.

So, I wanted to put in a shameless plug for one of my good friends who owns his own shop. He's been a mechanic for 20 years, partially at dealerships, and partially on his own, and has been as master tech for 15 years. I can vouch 100% for him in every respect in terms of his work and ethics. His shop is Max Automotive and his number is 303 818-4253. He's located just west of Sante Fe on Hampden at 2331 W. Hampden Ave. #145, Englewood, CO 80110. I had him run some quotes for common repairs on our car. Here's what he gave me: Timing belt/water pump - $270 labor, $105 timing belt, $154 water pump Change diff, P/S fluid, Brake fluid, manual transmission fluid - $60 total for parts and labor for each fluid Auto Transmission flush - $95 parts and labor standard fluid ($180 synthetic fluid) Head gaskets (turbo car $1025 labor around $250 parts) (non-turbo $892 labor around $250 parts) parts may be additional depending if it needs head bolts, rear main seal...etc. Clutch - (turbo car $398 labor $423 clutch set) (non-turbo $345 labor $269 clutch set) Front/ rear axles - $85 labor and $89 axle each side Wheel bearings - Front $308 labor each, Rear $90 labor each (several different manufactures of bearings please call for part price) Turbo swap - $490 labor (I do not warranty used turbo swaps, too many variables) swapping out downpipe (for emissions) - depending on rusted parts I have to repair around $75 labor I offer a one year/15K mile warranty on my parts and labor. ***ALL prices subject to change depending on condition of vehicle, I.E. rusted broken bolts that i must drill out etc...***

1.) Dunlop Direzza Star Specs First set- 225/45/17 8k miles Second set- 245/40/17 paid around $800 shipped from TireRack 1k so far 2) What is your geographic location: Denver 3) What types of driving events if any (Track, AutoX, Commute , etc): Very spirited daily driving, some track events. 4) Percent of highway vs. city driving: 75% highway 25% city #5) Tires used previously: Sumitomo HRTZ IIIs, Bridgestone Re-01r, Goodyear F1 GS-D3 #6) Your review and personal comments (Dry, wet, and snow, if applicable. Also, please compare to other tires used): I love these tires, and this is my second set. I have been very impressed with them, particularly their exceptional grip in both dry and wet. The Star Specs outperformed the Goodyears and HRTZ IIIS by a wide margin in all categories. Compared to the Bridgestones, these are more predictable at the limits, but that could be partially because of the larger sidewall on my Re-01rs. At the limits, these are consistent and predictable, and easily correctable when they break loose. The road feel is great, and turn-in quick. Noise level is not excessive, but hard to compare to other tires. My last set lasted 8k miles with 6 track days, but they would have probably lasted much longer without the track days. They hold up better than all the other brands except the Sumitomos, which are hardly in the same category. I will definitely be buying another set once these are done.

#1) 225/45/17 Goodyear F1 GS-D3 XL. I paid $710 mounted with pricematching and $150 in rebates. I have driven less than 2000 miles on these tires. #2) I live in Denver, CO #3) I use my car as a daily driver for very spirited driving and have gone to the track twice with these tires for a total of about 80-90 miles. #4) 1/3 City, 2/3 Highway driving #5) Tires used previously: Sumitomo HRTZ III. The Goodyears are much, much grippier, but slightly less predictable at the limits on dry pavement. The Goodyears are night and day better in wet, both on slightly wet roads and in heavy rain. Similar road noise levels. #6) I bought these tires specifically for the track, and initially loved them. The rubber is very soft and extremely grippy. I did find that at the limits on dry pavement (particularly with an air temperature over 90) they were slightly unpredictable, probably due to the soft rubber. In wet conditions, this tire is amazing. When the road was slightly wet, there was almost no difference in performance (when driving below 7/10's). At the limit in wet, these tires were very predictable, maybe even more so than when on dry pavement. As a street tire, I would highly recommend them. I was planning on buying coilovers in the near future when the tires were purchased, and thus did not have an optimal negative camber set up (nor was it out of spec). I thought I could make it to a couple track days before buying the coilovers. After the second day, I looked at my front left tire and noticed a large chunk out of the outer edge of the tread. After inspecting both front tires, I found about 4, similar, nickel-sized chunks out of the same region on both front tires. I immediately brought the car in to Goodyear to see if there was any way this could be a manufacturers defect. I was told "the tread in that area (outer edge) is really thin, and once it's gone, the tire is just going to sort of fall apart like that". I know I am stupid for not having the right camber set up at the track, but to me, no tire should become completely unusable after less than 2000 miles, no matter how it is driven. Especially one advertised for "Ultra high spirited driving".

It was great to meet everyone yesterday, and hopefully I will see you all soon.