ClimberDHexMods

like this?

That will work

Thanks. I never finished this write-up, though if you make it this far then the rest is not terribly difficult in comparison.

I actually do have a kit here, but it's just sitting in a bag with all the hefty TransGo packaging thrown away. I don't think I'll be using it. PM me if you would like to buy it. It won't come in the massive TransGo packaging that tries to make you feel like your purchase has some heft. It's just small springs, valves, balls, and some useless drill bits. But it should work just as well. My price won't be much better than Summit, so don't set your hopes too high in that regard.

E85 is fantastic if you have a tuner who understands how to tune it right, and a driver who understands how to check for whether variations in seasonal blends may cause a problem to pop up.

It's not fantastic on an unmodified 5EAT. Not for long anyways

I saw a Stage 2 5EAT with a Valve Body today, but then I saw a stage 3 5EAT e85 tune with NO VALVE BODY! I was like, "This isn't supposed to exist". He explained that his tune was set to not give full boost until the torque converter was locked up, and that fixed the issues with blowing the 5EAT? Is he blowing smoke my 5EAT gurus?

The latter character's story is either missing major pieces of information, or he has no concept of how to properly setup a car.

What's the point of having all the mods if you handicap it to keep it alive a little longer? I admit I did this myself, but only to survive until my trans swap.

What you described sounds like building a mansion on a swamp... real nice until you realize the back half sunk 18", your neighbors eat alligator meat, and you're a prime candidate for catching mosquito-borne malaria.

What am I saying, I know people who want the mods just to have them, to talk about them, to post pics of them, to get street cred at car meets, but never to use them. I don't know if any of this is the person you speak of. These are just scenes I see.

I once sold a valve body to a guy who wrote me after a few weeks saying he didn't notice a difference. I asked him if he had accelerated hard with the car since installing it. He came back and said something like 'oh, yeah, it does work.' Totally different story here: He knew how to setup the car properly, but he must not have had a desire to drive it like he stole it.

Also keep in mind, depending on the stage 3 setup and the area in which you drive, and the TUNE (I saw a **** ***** E85 tune that left a huge amount of power on the table, because the tuner had rather be home by 5:10pm than do the job he was paid to do. My old stage 3 setup made it nearly impossible to get power on the street. Kept me out of boost ALL the time, was the opposite of fun. Lots to consider.

There is no reason to do this the system as we wired it runs the PWM duty cycle just as it should and it gets the proper voltage that the pump needs. The pumps are flow tested at 13.5 volts or so generally, so thats really all you need.

When you are on boost or at full load the FPCM runs full duty cycle anyway so there is no need to switch the power feed under boost.

Can the mid-sized pumps (such as DW300) pull their listed amps at high pressure levels through the wiring you have it setup as? If so, you guys really knocked this one out of the park

Edit: Nevermind, I re-read, you definitely have the best solution here.

My thought was:

Leave the FPCM to run stock so you get stock PWM 98% of the time. During the 2% when you're on boost, a boost switch activates a relay, which switches power feed away from/through the FPCM, and instead direct heavy gauge wire from the battery to the pump. One could add a KB BAP so that the 14V is instead 17 or 19V, whatever you need to keep up fuel pressure.

I have not fiddled with the realities of such a setup. Are you guys saying you tried this style of setup, and it was too messy and unnecessary? The only big difference I see between this and a 100% on relay powering the FP is the addition of a boost switch (I realize those can fail, but that's a different story).

Thats what Im thinking....the noise happens when the car wants to shift, but doesn't. Which I have to release the throttle for it to shift. I guess 312tq is pretty high for the VB

 

So 500bucks would be sending you my VB....what would it be for you to send me one first....my daily driver.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/5eat-valve-body-upgrades-finally-164484.html

$589.

Be warned, if your trans is slipping (sounds like it is) then the F1 may or may not solve the problem. It's calibrated to work on a healthy trans. Yours may or may not be a healthy trans. It may have some worn friction material, or something along those lines. Either way, if you're making a good deal more power than stock, there is not a better alternative.

how does the fluid level affect the way it shifts overall? Is it better to be slightly under the F mark on the hot side? Right now its maybe 1/2cm above the F hot mark.

The ideal place to have the fluid level is somewhere between F and immediately below F. Being higher than F when hot means you have too much fluid in the pan, which can be really bad if you're enough over. I bet there is a safety margin in the dipstick levels, but I know of no one who has tested this.

The JATCo engineers knew exactly what they were doing when they designed every piece of it . I can't say the same for Subaru's add-ons... though they're not worse than any other auto manufacturer.

Since the 06-07 engines are the same, couldn't you use those years transmissions interchangeably? There are a couple 06 5EATs on Ebay right now.

I don't know if that has been tested. The engines have nothing to do with the transmission. There are some 2.5i engines running around mounted to a 5eat (not sure what market, but that's what it looked like with Subaru's reverse part number lookup). Anyways, 06-07 are different 5eat part numbers. I haven't gone any deeper to find similarities, but anyone can look up the part numbers and find the difference. They are internally the same, or almost the same. Valve bodies are different, but cross-compatible with no problems. I think it might come down to the sensors, or the harness, or something as simple as that. All I know is that if you try to swap between 05 and 06/07, you may be in for a major world of hurt.

It may be that Rick got an 06 or 07 to work on his 05. I don't know the story there, but an 06 or 07 frame transmission came off his 2005 LGT (the IPT trans he sold a couple years ago).

Do you have any cores for the 07? My car is making a grinding noise cause it isn't shifting fast enough. This is my daily.

I have an 07 VB here, though there is mechanically no difference to the 05-06 (nonetheless I like to match year to year to keep it clean).

If you have a grinding noise, then you may have other problems than slow shifts, though the stock VB sure does make it easy to wear out a transmission if you're making considerable torque, often.

How many miles on your car? You may have a clutch pack worn to the point where it no longer engages as instructed by the TCU. When that happens, it goes from . .. ... .... ..... smooth engagement over time, to . . . . ....... where it's slipping during the beginning of the engagement (which you don't feel) and then it catches up with itself and feels like a BANG as it does. Mine did this, and I pulled it apart to find completely cooked 5eat frictions and steels (the contents of the clutch packs). That was at around 30k miles

I can't tell if this is what you're describing, but maybe it is.

^

did you put a temp sensor/gauge on any of the lines? do you check the stock sensors to see what your temps actually are? do you track or race the car?

 

i track my car often and have been having temp issues the last 2 times.

 

now i cant find the trany temp gauge threads....sad for me.

Installing a temp gauge into the transmission system is probably one of the easiest gauge installs you can do, especially if you already have a boost gauge and know how to install that. Many of us, or myself, can give you any information you may need.

Is driving like a tool in the snow (DORIFTO!!!) as hard on my diff as hard launches?

 

Aka should I stop having fun driving in the snow next season?

No

no, the 5eat outputs into a planetary gear set, which without clutch pack lockup is functionally an open differential.

Frankster took the center diff's input shaft and rear output shaft, and welded them together. So that piece is a continuous part from the 5eat output to the driveshaft. He can engage the front drive shaft by locking it to the center diff, effectively making it a locked center with the flip of a switch.

I moved 5 blocks over. Found the place with the garage, and was there the next morning to tour, had signed a few days later.

Considering we can't get more than 4 LGT owners at one DFW meet, I have no concerns about a new mecca. Texas... F-body is faster than a Lamborghini, y'all.

Are you saying, build it and they will come?

Happy pre-birthday!

I, similar to you once upon a time, just transitioned from 'other' work to full time automotive. In retrospect, I should have done it a while ago. I don't need to tell you how much easier it makes it to do car projects

Thursday is a bit aggressive, but I have you specifically in mind for this project, of course.