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Posts posted by ClimberDHexMods
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Yup 5eat and GT appear to be having a breakup. Though the 5eat can do some really cool stuff (like shift for you) it does have downsides like consuming more power than MT.
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I was going to change my AT fluid and differential oil this weekend.
Anyone have a preference on brand of differential oil? Subaru Extra-S or something else? Or is it not a big deal as long as its 75W90 GL-5?
I know the MT guys like the Subaru Extra-S, but I would imagine they have a bit more reason to be picky about it since they depend on it for shifting as well.
Your suspicion is correct. For diff oil, any good 75W-90 will do. The factory service manual, and maybe even the regular manual, has a chart showing what diff oil weight to use for what temperature ranges. You're not going to notice a difference with X brand vs Y brand gear oil, especially on an open front diff. If you're like me, you pull a name brand synthetic and be done with it. Though it doesn't really matter,
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I mainly upgraded to be able to hold more power, the faster shifts are just a bonus. I was pretty used to the oem shift speed and it never really bothered me much. At the end of the day, it's never gonna shift like a dual clutch or sequential trans.
To that end, GT-R or Evo X, or it's not happening. I think about that a lot, since WOT is nice through a shift.
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How long is the wait list now?
For 05-07, one month or less. I just bought another VB for a core.
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Don't thank me until you have a modified valve body in your car
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Getting there.
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well i even have spair gears and pins ..
Ah, nevermind.
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We basically figured it's all years 05-09 with needle bearings in the center diff, thus far.
Frank_ster I can send you my sample bushing for your measurements. If you replicate it then you'll be good to go.
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I still have David's center diff bearings to install
Those may be getting a bit rare, since my machine shop person may have gone out of business. I have no extra sets left. It was a hassle finding someone to make such small runs of them, by hand no less (not CNC)
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Ohhhhhh BBBBMMMMMMXXXXXXX,
(Full screen is way better btw)
http://s1110.photobucket.com/albums/h443/mwm5094/?action=view¤t=ValveBody.mp4
Nice shifts... I think the video illustrates it very well.
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Will respond to messages hopefully Sunday. Was working all day Friday, on the road all day today (Saturday), from 8am to 11:00pm. Not ignoring, just was limited to iPhone browser.
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Help needed now. AF/r's of 15/1 to 19/1 and lucky the motor hasn't blown.
What came of this? Re-wire overide or conversion to STi FPCM only, or both??? I am confused.
DW300 fp 2 months old after I was told that my Walbro255 had died after only 3 months running e85.
850 side feeds, BNR hta68 running on E85 at approx 70%duty cycle. It goes massively lean above 4500rpm's after only 2 months on this tune and DW pump set-up.
Help.
I'll say it before someone else does: could be many things. Do you have a thread on this matter? Would like to follow. Your rate of fuel flow is not unusual, so the problem might not be electrical.
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I didn't think you were supposed to WOT for a while?
If it's not kicking too harshly after each time you give it a little more throttle, then keep going until you hit WOT. Some people get there very quickly, some do not.
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IDRVSLO and I got everything in last night. Did the trans filter in the process too. Regular mode drives normally, put about 100 miles on it (1/2 highway) 1-2 seems normal still, 2-3 & 3-4 seem perfect, 4-5 seems normal. All downshifts still seem normal (Normal meaning like they were stock before the VB swap). Hopefully the learning process works all of these things out. Reset TCU right after install as well. 7 qts. seemed to be the sweet spot for me. All in all, if all of the shifts act like the 2-3 shift, I should have done this a long time ago. Sooooo sweet.
Glad it was a successful swap. Definitely check your ATF level again while running after a drive, just to be sure. Your VB had fluid in it, normally they ship with just a few drops in them. So that would explain a lot of the 1 quart difference.
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Drop in 8 quarts straight away after installing new VB. Then fine tune last half quart.
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It's totally different than before the VB mod. Either the delay is even longer or it's not even recognizing my manual shift and just shifting at it's normal shift point. I never liked the manual shift because of the delay so I didn't use it much, but was just wondering if this is happening to other people.
Just sent you a long PM explaining what might be going on. But the manual mode issues, that has be confused. It always take around 2 seconds to execute a requested shift, so if it's not doing it then that could be indicative of another problem. Did you ever have the TCU updated by the dealer? It might be worth a call to the dealer with your VIN just to see if they have a software update applicable to your car. I have heard of this solving issues people had several years ago. Something to consider as well.
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After the TCU reset, anywhere from 100-400 miles usually. I have concerns about your trans. We'll take it step by step until we have your car shifting right.
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I've been moving cores fast recently, so wait list is down to 4 people. Maybe 4-6 weeks.
Turnaround on sending in your own valve body is 24-48 hours.
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Just got my headlights back, blacked out They look great. For those wondering, he uses an appropriate amount of sealant when putting the housing halves back together, so there is not all that unsightly overflow of sealant like on some people's work. I am glad I had an experienced person do this instead of me. It appears to be more an art than a science.
IDRVSLO put up with my several text messages very politely, and has offered good service.
I just need to polish my headlights and then I'll have the look I've been craving!
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Looking at Snap-on for this purpose. Expensive, but the garage journal guys appear to love them over anything.
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Wonderful thread.
Somewhat related, after destroying a few brake line male hex heads, I bought this:
[ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004SBBE/ref=oh_o03_s00_i00_details]Amazon.com: Vise-Grip 4LW Locking Wrench with Wire Cutter: Home Improvement[/ame]
Haven't used it yet, but I hear it is an excellent way to remove brake lines when a flare wrench will just round out the hex head.
Looks like this:
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41v3IO4MfDL._SL500_AA300_.jpg
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Im interested in swapping my 08's. Any advice beside the typical electrical gremlins and crossmember BS? I dont know if they changed any mounts and what not in 08 compared to 05.
Theres a local 05 lgt 5mt thats being parted out... I inquired about the tranny, clutch pedal assembly, master cyl, shifter housing and linkages, and driveshaft. Ill be reading up some more...
I believe the 05-09 transmissions should mount up the same, but I have not confirmed this. Though when it comes to fabrication, a transmission mount is not nearly as difficult as other things.
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admittedly very slow since I've been very distracted with work
Valve Body Mods, Giant Leaps Forward!!!
in Transmissions
Posted