Chocoholic005

what I saw the most of was people experiencing stripped T+50 bolt heads and consequently having trouble getting their flywheels off. One guy had to grind off the heads to free the flywheel, but he said at that point he could use his fingers to spin the bolt shafts out.

 

This exact thing happened to me 8 years ago...

My thought is that I could try to get Subaru to consider it substantially similar to usdm which would negate the need for testing besides emissions.

 

Substantially similar requires the vehicle to be substantially similar, and that includes emissions and which side of the vehicle you drive on. This will not work for an S402.

....also, the last thing I 'broke' doesn't count yet. The trans that sounds like it has rocks inside of it is still alive and kicking.

 

It's certainly doing a lot better than my broke trans...

Wellp, the corn has defeated the Exedy stage 1 clutch. 27k miles on it. Bah.

 

You break so much stuff...

I don't think so as they are new to most of us.

 

I don't see any reason why the 4eat driveshaft which I believe is the same would not work fine.

 

Think about it, the only difference is the length.

 

I called them; they confirmed the 4eat driveshaft is the 6 speed driveshaft and said they would change the website to reflect that. I received it about a week ago and it perfectly matches up to my spec B. driveshaft, so I would call them identical.

It's my opinion that everything the engineers designed has a purpose.

 

You'd be surprised how much stuff we design that has little to no purpose. A lot of early development of a new model is based on cooperate design standards, previous knowledge, and requirements for plant assembly that end up being completely unnecessary or overbuilt. Since we don't test vehicles for being overbuilt, most of these parts that are excessive or totally unnecessary are never caught; and when they are caught, it's usually because someone is looking for a cost saving measure and ran the necessary tests without said part, only to find it passes the tests.

 

Additionally, there are a lot of parts that are purely visual (like the engine cover) that serve little to no purpose for the performance of the vehicle. This extends well beyond body panels and interior bits, and can compromise the cooling system, suspension/chassis, underbody and more depending on the design office's requirements.

As someone who's recently completed the task you have ahead of you (kinda), good luck! It's always nice to see people keep these things on the road.

Minimal.

 

For my education - how's 'power side' defined in this context? Not really a positive displacement guy.

 

I took it to be the 'counterpressure side' described in the doc I linked.

 

Side that the rod is pointing to on the downward power stroke. That's what I was always taught

 

Surprised to see so much skirt wear and nothing at the top near the rings. Certainly would like to know more about how this happened. I'd be interested to know if that cylinder specifically was a larger bore than the other 3.

Finally heard back from JDM Racing Motors, the company whom I sourced the S402 transmission from, about resolution. They offered a replacement spec-B transmission with a 0.756 sixth gear for $2000 shipped, down from the $2650+ plus shipping they were asking on their website. While that may have seemed generous, it really only gets that transmission down to ebay market value, and I only paid $2050 for my transmission in the first place. Needless to say, I'll be looking into other options. Probably a rebuild.

didn't notice a big difference with the sti u-joint on mine. but the cusco steering brace and whiteline steering bushings made it feel very solid.

 

Mine had over 200k miles on it, so i expect I'll see some improvement there. I had a low speed vague shimmy feel when going around corners, but that very well could have been the diff in my transmission killing itself. I'll probably never know what really caused it, but I bet it will be gone after this is all done.

 

Interesting that the side by side of the links show they are about the same length.

Do you know what year STI that link is from ?

 

My 08-14 link seems to be a little short on the column side in my 05 GT wagon.

 

You may have seen that solid link seems to have fixed my intermittent shimmy at highway speeds. The steering also feels a little more responsive too.

 

This is from an 09 STI. They were exactly the same length when i measured them, and I had no issue installing the new one. As long as the bolts line up with the notches on the rack/column, you should be good.

Did some thinking on this. If I'm picturing this correctly, w/ CW crank rotation the #2 cylinder should clock slightly towards the intake side? Not sure if the wrist pin bore in the piston is offset to account for this, though. Also not sure if I've flipped things around in my head

 

Power side of cylinder 2 would be the exhaust side of the cylinder bore. Is there any wear on the other side of the piston?

Yikes, that's some serious skirt wear! I assume this is on the power side of the piston? That's some wear i'd only expect to see if the cylinder was way out of spec for the piston. Don't happen to have a dial bore gauge do you?

Still haven't heard anything regarding the transmission and any kind of potential replacement; kinda getting drug along at the moment.

 

I did take the opportunity to replace the steering rack this weekend (again) and replace the leaky used unit I sourced when doing the build the first time. I also took this opportunity to remove the steering isolator u-joint and replace it with a solid STI unit.

I have a spare 6 speed driveshaft available for anyone looking to do a swap; has about 90k miles on it and doesn't appear to have any issues. I did have it in my vehicle for a short period before upgrading. I've tried to do my best to photograph areas of surface rust, but the driveshaft is structurally sound. Just a used part.

 

Asking $150. I will ship, PM me for a quote.

The JDM ECU somehow got here from Osaka in 3 days

 

And yet, the Detroit postal sorting facility can't get items through in less than 4 right now.

Maybe a new interest in the making?

 

This is how I ended up with 6 cars...

So you just fill the engine with oil like you would normally and just use that pressure pump to run it through the engine?

 

Fill the pressure bleeder with plenty of oil. Connect it to the oil pressure sensor port right above the oil pump, and pump it up to around 20 psi; which is what you'd be at for a warm idle. I rotate the crank very slowly to make sure all the oil ports get fed, and put about 2-3 quarts through the system. Never had any issue on startup, you get pressure immediately.

They ended up having to tear everything back down and packing the oil pump with Vaseline. So, I'm thinking since I haven't put the engine timing pieces together that now is a good time to redo the oil pump and pack it with Vaseline. Then get the timing and everything else put together. I should have more pictures in the future.

 

Never heard anyone having to pack an oil pump with Vaseline to get it to prime on a Subaru. I know the subaru can sometimes have an issue with an air bubble between the filter and the pump; which is why Flatirons Tuning will tell you not to fill your oil filter ahead of time. Why don't you just prime the system manually with a pressure bleeder?

Hahaha, and I thought I found another cutting edge material I could be researching. To be fair, I think any material that fills that space will be effective enough.

 

That was my general assumption as well; I occasionally work with NVH engineers to meet their full vehicle testing needs, and you'd be surprised how crude/rudimentary their noise & vibration solutions are.

 

my jdm 6mt (diff, shaft, clutch) was $2,100 to my door. had only 53,120 miles. owners of cars in jpn hardly drive their cars. traffic is bad so most use the train system. would never buy a usdm specb tranny. they are over priced and high mileage. if you're doing a 6mt in an 05 lgt, you need to use an 06-07 5mt neutral switch on the tranny to get the cruise control to engage.

 

Typically I agree with you, which is why I imported a JDM trans. Clearly that decision didn't work out for me this time. I already have the 6mt set-up going, so we're good neutral switch wise.

What kind of insulation are you using here?

 

 

 

Haha. That is a cut up memory foam mattress pad. I had it lying around, and it's a hell of a lot cheaper than the real stuff. I'm sure it doesn't do as good a job, but I don't find the cabin objectionably loud regardless.

"Highly misplaced" Y'all are supposed to be the responsible ones.

 

Did you miss the part where we have 6 cars? And it's not even like a "we're content" 6 cars... it's a "we each want 2 more, and oh yeah we need to buy a new house to park all these" 6 cars.

S402 has the same gearing as any 07-09 USDM SpecB. Was it easier/cheaper to source the S402 transmission rather than a SpecB one?

 

Regardless, great time to upgrade the front diff to the Helical LSD and get away from the open diff.

 

You are correct in that statement. It was $2325 shipped to my door from, at the time, what was a reputable importer. Course, they could have sold it cheap because it was broken haha.

 

I don't love the low speed handling of a front LSD, and i don't really need it, so its never been a priority. But who knows... I buy stuff I don't need all the time.

Wagon project and coupe daily seems backwards

 

My priorities are highly misplaced. That being said, having a daily that runs 10s is great fun!

 

 

 

Okay... so it's never actually run 10s, but damnit i'm gonna get there!

If budget allows, maybe swap out a 1:1 final drive at the center diff for better highway MPG's (in theory)

 

I specifically got the S402 transmission for its 0.707 6th gear. I am not sure i'd want to go longer than that.

ended up with a Jaguar. Yup.

 

Welcome to the club. While I'd hardly call my F-type reliable, it works for a daily.