Chocoholic005

No real updates, but it looks like I will be pulling the transmission again to see what's wrong. Was out of the state for a couple weeks, and couldn't look into things further, but now that i'm back and have had a chance to investigate, there's nothing I'm going to be able to fix without pulling it to see what's wrong. May start that this weekend.

 

Still haven't driven the car since middle of July.

You cannot use the hubs, driveshaft or axles in your set-up. You'll need to source Legacy units for those; spec. B rear halfshafts and a 4 speed auto driveshaft. You can re-use your existing transmission crossmember.

01 Eclipse I4 -> 00 Eclipse V6 -> 05 Impreza 2.5RS + 67 Firebird -> 05 LGT -> 97 Forester + 08 BMW 135i + 06 LGT -> 05 STI -> 16 Jaguar F-type R + 13 Impreza (own both still) -> 16 STI Series.HyperBlue -> 05 LGT Wagon (obviously own still).

 

Currently 31 y/o.

No you didn’t hurt anything. What you’re describing is just the throw out bearing rattling.

 

And that's the only think in my mind that could be the issue, because it can't be the pilot bearing since it's clutch out, not clutch in... unless I damaged the clutch disc itself somehow. But the pilot bearing never rattled like this before, and it's literally brand new. Last thing I want is to damage my brand new input shaft.

 

I'm certainly open to thoughts if this can be fixed without pulling the trans, but that seems unlikely.

Just can't win. Spent the last two days after work installing the rebuilt transmission; took me about 8 hours total, with 2.5 of that fighting to get the transmission into the car. While the vehicle runs and drives fine, there's a distinct, intermittent rattle in neutral with the clutch released. It goes away when I engage the clutch, so I'm thinking I damaged something during installation and the transmission probably needs to come out again.

An oiling issue from the previous owner I'm assuming? I didn't think you had it in many miles.

 

I can't imagine it was from anything I did. Barely had 1000 miles on it before the whine was unbearable.

After a month or so with RalliSpec and ~$2600 (including freight) the trans is finally back. Looks like the cause of the issue was oiling based; the center diff was pitted and shot, the gears were essentially polished smooth and the main shaft was significantly scored. In addition to these repairs, the 4th, 5th and 6th gear syncros were replaced. Definitely a heavy cost and I haven't driven the vehicle in almost 3 months, but I'm glad its back.

 

Unfortunately, stupid me didn't pull the throw out bearing from the clutch until the transmission came back, and I must have damaged it during disassembly. One of the tangs that the clutch fork slides into was bent, and cracked when I tried to bend it back. A new one should be here tomorrow at which point I'll start re-assembly. The only bright side of all this, is I finally was able to swap out the 6 speed neutral switch for a 5 speed unit. I had previously eliminated the switch from the system and thus the vehicle always thought it was in gear.

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I'll hunt around for my OEM one I never disposed of properly at work. Shipping would suck ass but I could use the money given the fact that a new short block is sitting in its crate in my living room now

 

Shipping is like $21. Cut them down with a saw a put them in a large priority flat rate box.

So do you think the binding is on the flange of the bolt head at the faying surface on the forward-most disk of the dual-mass flywheel?

 

It's not readily apparent how to cut the heads off through the little windows in the rear-most disk of the dual-mass flywheel, or how to split the disks of the flywheel. I don't plan to reuse it, so I could, if I saw how. And it's sounding like something better done with the engine out of the car.

 

That combined with the streching of the bolts putting extra pressure on the threads. Release that stretch and the pressure goes way down. I always have used a die grinder to get the heads off.

I bet you just cut the heads off of those bolts, and they come out by hand once you pop the flywheel off. That's been my experience every time I have a stuck one.

This wagon's worth saving.

 

You're damn right it is!

what fitting did you guys use or can you just clap the hose to the nub the sensor spins onto?

 

I took the oil pressure sensor to ACE and bought a fitting for like $2.

Which power bleeder did you purchase? I see some for 55 bucks. I believe I saw somewhere that someone used a 10 dollar garden pump sprayer or something of that nature from home depot. I will have to look into it more.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-Pressure-Clutch-Bleeder/dp/B00CJ5DZE2

 

That is the exact one I used, but only because I already had it for bleeding brakes. You could use anything that pressurizes with a fitting on the end for the fluid to flow through.

Watch this:

 

Don't worry about it; you're fine. I am surprised you're planning to do final torque on the cam gears after installing the belt. I don't know that it's wrong per say, but I've always done it before installing the belt.

We used a brake power bleeder connected to the oil pressure sensor port. Rotate the engine slowly with ~20 psi of pressure in the bottle and it will feed oil throughout the motor.

If a stock STi part can work on the legacy, there's an outside chance an aftermarket part would also fit the legacy. Assuming there's no special adaptors for the aftermarket piece, that may throw a wrench in things.

 

04-07 STI rear brakes; these DO require special adapters. You could potentially get the 04 STI kit (Need 5x100 rotors) and buy the adapters to make it work; but I think there's more potential seeing if an WRX kit works. Don't remember off hand, but the guys at Fastwrx.com would know. Or KNS brakes.

bump.

I gotta look into 10mm vs 11mm for high rpm single avcs applications. Or maybe my tolerances were to big so oil was bleeding out and not coating, which led to poor oiling due to lack of pressure on the 4th rod.

 

I highly doubt this was a tolerance issue; unless your tolerances were wayyyy off, this wouldn't be the cause. The larger pump would help with flow and compensate for larger clearances some; it doesn't increase pressure unless you shim it, just pushes more volume through.

These are off a 2014 I believe. The drivers and passenger OCVs are the same part number are they not?

 

Your heads are from a 2014? I had no problem swapping 05 OCVs into an D25 heads, but I couldn't tell you what year they were from.

That's funny my first thought was Perrin but I keep hearing Cobb. To each their own I guess. I really did not enjoy installing the Perrin the last time around. This time around the intake won't be in the car so it should be pretty easy.

 

The newer Perrin inlet has a plug/play mount for the crank case vent sensor, and the connectors for vacuum hoses are more logically placed. The cobb inlet requires you to run a supplied hose to the front of the inlet and jam it through a crowded opening under the intake manifold. It's much more difficult even with the engine on a stand.

 

https://www.perrin.com/shop/air-induction/wrx-sti-turbo-inlet-hose

Was that you? Sorry, I didn't make notes as I went to give proper credits.

 

Probably not; not sure I posted about it. I think its just a common issue. The threading out by hand after cutting the heads off always baffled me.

Also, I ordered a new turbo inlet (Cobb) but it looks like they are on backorder

 

I'd cancel that order and get a Perrin instead; Cobb's is very difficult to install in comparison.

I see, I would be paying for the engine and don't have a massive amount of knowledge

 

Don't bother. Absolutely not worth it.