Chris GTO TT

Sorry but no. The coolant reroute applies to all NA and NB cars. The only cars where it's not as effective is on the 01-05 cars and even then the guys who regularly track their cars still say to do it.

1.6 does not need a reroute since it is routed differently than the 1.8.

 

But a new radiator and hoses plus checking the dreaded devil plug is always a good idea.

 

That's not accurate. The BP coolant flows the same way through the engine regardless of 1.6 or 1.8. The engine was designed to help have water flow in the front and out the rear of the head since it was designed to be FWD.

Miatas do run a little warm, and the coolant reroute is recommended for 90-05. However in 01 Mazda changed the headgasket design to reduce the problem, so you won't see the full benefits of the reroute without a headgasket swap.

Yeah that's why I'm kinda concerned about it. It looks like there are 3 main culprits of the code. 2 are vacuum leaks and the last is the front O2 sensor.

Thinking about taking a chance on a NC.... https://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/d/2006-mazda-miata-6-speed-as-is/6478070508.html

Ecotec

Is that a 2.0 from a NC Miata in a NA?

I agree on the NC's though decently clean ones with a clean title still command a premium. One of the great things about the NC is it is effectively a light weight RX-8 with a reliable engine. With decent shocks and springs they really come alive like the RX-8.

Honestly any NA or NB Miata (90-05) would be a decent car for you. You just have to decide what kind of money you're willing to spend. 90-93 cars have the 1.6L and only have an available vlsd. The 94-97 cars got the 1.8L, bigger brakes, available Torsen lsd. there is no 98 US model year. The 99-00 cars still got a 1.8L but with improvements to the intake manifold and head for more HP. There are also available packages with the 6spd, better chassis bracing and even bigger brakes. 01-05 cars got VVT on the intake manifold which makes a lot more mid-range torque, but changes to the intake manifold means no extra HP. The 6spd sport package was a little more widely available. In 03 the bracing and brakes became standard across all cars. The differentials also changed depending on the year. 01-02 had an available Torosen, 03 kept the same final drive but switched to a clutch type, and 04-05 6spd cars (excluding MazdaSpeed) got a different final drive with the same clutch type.

My FM order arrived today

 

When will Doc Brown finish your hover conversion?

His current setup is arguably better than Ohlins

At your current power level and all that cooling you might have trouble keeping enough heat in your brakes now

Yeah, for simplicity I picked up the longer springs from FM when I went from my 90 to my 01

Quick pic after the VMaxx install...

 

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4621/38888166375_8b25d54140_c.jpg

 

I'd prefer it to sit a little higher, since this one isn't a track car, but I'm out of adjustment on the front. I may end up getting some new springs down the road to try to bring it up a touch.

 

Good news is it drives great... really tightened things up. Easy to slide around on the all -seasons and it's pretty neutral considering I have no idea what the alignment numbers look like. I've got an alignment scheduled for next week.

 

Interesting, according to FM 90-00 V-Maxx all use the same springs. They do sell the longer V8/01-05 springs too, but they don't let you use the tenders.

Probably neither...

 

NBs tend to rust under the tupperware (body cladding), so if rust is visible, it could be well advanced. Other than the rust and the dent in the pax door, the NB doesn't sound bad. Price is very low for the mileage, not a good sign.

 

The NA has lots of unknowns with a supercharged engine... and it's a 1.6.

 

>rant< Why can't people take decent pictures for shit they're trying to sell... >/rant<

 

Agreed 100%

I like that BRG!

 

Just wonder what's under the seat covers...??

 

Agreed, but with that mileage it can't be too bad. He also seems to be fairly low on his price.

And back to shopping for other Miatas...

 

https://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/d/2001-mazda-mx5-miata-se/6464232172.html

 

https://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/d/2002-mazda-miata-se/6458675277.html

Just placed an order with FM for the tool kit, rear crank seal installer, extended stainless steal clutch line and a new clutch slave cylinder.

I usually just pull the engine and leave the transmission in place

Harbor Freight engine stands are pretty cheap and work fine. The bellhousing bolts are usually not long enough for the engine stand mount, so you may need to pick up 4 longer bolts to mount it. I don't have the thread specs off the top of my head, but you can find it by looking up the bellhousing bolt... pretty sure it's 12mm, but I don't remember the pitch. Get a bunch of washers as well, some of the bolts will bottom in the block, so you'll want to be able to adjust the length and keep it tight on the stand.

Yeah I'm planning on buying the HF stand. I think I still have the extended bolts I used way back when I did the 1.8 swap on my 90.

This is very useful and almost required when pulling the engine:

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-ton-capacity-heavy-duty-load-leveler-67441.html

 

Do yourself a favor and buy one if the hoist you're using doesn't have one.

I might have to look into it, i've never used one before when pulling engines I usually just muscle it around to get the engine and trans mated.

If you haven't done them yet, don't forget the clutch hydraulics, and replace the pilot bearing.

 

The FM timing tool works great, and you might as well just buy the kit if you're doing all the seals... their seal tools are nifty as well.

The PO claimed the replaced the slave before I bought it. I may throw a slave at it just for ease. I'm tempted to get the replacement line from the master to the slave.

I give some thought to a coolant re-route, though to really do it right on an NB, it needs the earlier head gasket, which means pulling the head. It also adds quite a bit of expense and time... but you get the chance to clean everything... ain't project creep grand!

Not willing to tackle the reroute nor the HG job to make it most effective on the VVT cars.

I've used the Mazda Comp engine mounts from Goodwin on both cars and am happy with them. They work great unless you want lots of NVH.

 

Other than that, it sounds like you've got it covered.

 

I also have the comp mounts. Not willing to go to the poly mounts... I had the softest available durometer ones on my old 3000GT VR-4 and even those had a bit mroe NVH than I really wanted. I'm halfway tempted to throw money at a 6spd and 3.90 diff

I plan on pulling my motor Feb 9-12. I need to get an engine stand and hopefully I can get borrow a hoist. I think I'm going to just buy the FM timing tool kit. I plan on replacing front main seal, cam seals rear main seal, clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, throw out bearing, radiator, coolant hoses and engine mounts. What else should I do while I'm in there?

Came out great! I need to do them on my Miata again.