ViscousSquirrel

So I've been researching IM removal. That looks like heaps of fun..............

Misery, It’s what makes a Subaru, a Subaru.

I've been to his shop a few times. It's more of a small warehouse for his construction business but filled with lgt's. A couple of weeks ago, he had 4 cars in there in various stares of rebuild/dissembling. He has piles of parts, mostly stacked on his racks intermingled with his construction supplies.

 

Getting parts off cars takes a bit, but once done they tend to go out quickly.

 

I store his gutted shells because i'm planning an lgt ranch install at some point in the future

LGT ranch for injured and disused LGT's?

Update to the findings - there are flakes in the oil film in the intake. Does that change anyone’s assessment of rebuilding the turbo & carrying on?

Nope.

Carry on.

The only difference I would recommend would be to take the intercooler and intake off and clean the heck out of everything.

The further go down the rabbit hole of replacement the more expensive it gets. Don't waste money on "If"s or "Maybe's" you will regret it later. Put another way, if it isn't broke, don't fix it.".

there are zero marks! Everything was rubbed off.

The actual physical marks on the cam gears should still be visible as opposed to the paint marks. Though I guess if it’s still starting to some extent then they must be close.

I cannot get it to upload with any resizing.

Linked:

https://imgur.com/a/2vxOyZH

Whoa, that looks like something got sucked into the turbo. That doesn't look like it has anything to do with shaft play, which is what I expected to see. I would check for bits of that in the intake piping maybe stuck in the oil film in the throttle body

or intercooler. Otherwise none of that would be in the oil. I would assume those bits would be stuck in the intercooler and not have made it to the combustion chamber.

If it were my money I would just rebuild or replace the turbo and call it a day.

had to, i was right near my house, and no phone or wallet... just wanted to get it back in my driveway, so I let it sit for 5 minutes, got it started and cruised home. I initially thought it was an overheating issue, so I let it cool down for a couple hours, tried to start it and that was that. Everything is retrospect, so its not as bad as you think it is lol.

 

Looking for a boroscope on amazon atm. I really need the sb to be fine, heads being ok would be a bonus. I'm hoping the squealing I heard is from a bearing on timing belt and not a camshaft or my turbo.

I had an sti that jumped a few teeth once. After the timing was reset it fired right up so you might be ok!

After taking a break from it and thinking it over.... i think something happened with the timing belt, like the tensioner took a sh**. Lets pray it is something simple. If it were a valve it would start but sound like crap and change with the rpms. My motor can barely start, takes a ton of cranking, like when you have a tooth off. Dear god give me a win!!! If its the timing belt I can be up and running a lot sooner. I had a gates racing timing belt kit with the blue kevlar belt that I bought way back in the day, bought it like 5+ years ago.

Good luck! But please stop cranking it OMG!

Why does it not really look lifted?

You can’t appreciate how big those tires are in pictures. You have to see it in person.

It's on the intake side. No joke about the rabbit hole(s). I don't wanna do that. I'm not looking to crazy mod it, just drive. It's giving me an error trying to upload a photo. I'll try it later.

Reduce the picture size to 1040 pixels and 512k and it will probably load. Oh, and use the “go advanced” button and click the paper clip to load it as an attachment.

This is just my kind of build!!!

Oh so you too are a fan of bad decision making!? ;P

So it was the cold side that had chips in the compressor blade? Honestly with my personal experience in losing money on these I would rebuild or swap the turbo and enjoy it. There’s a guy on the board selling a used vf52 right now for 450 I think.

I mean, if you click my build thread you can see what going down the rabbit hole gets you and it isn’t cheap.

Can you post a pic of the turbo blades?

ANDDDD THERE GOES A VALVE!!

 

OMFG!!! motors gotta come back out.... a 3rd time....3rd times a charm right! smh......

 

I knew I shouldn't have cheaped out on the valvetrain.... I just knew it would come back to bite me in the ass..... what made me think valves with 120k miles on it would be good enough..... oh well.... back to the drawing board, hopefully my sb is still good. But it looks like a valve is loose and floating.

 

This time

new guides

new and better valves

new and better valve locks

 

Any recommendations? I will probably just get the entire BC package otherwise.

BC2960- 6° Billet Keepers / Locks for Subaru EJ205/EJ257 applications

BC3600- 36.0mm Intake Valves (standard head diameter)

BC3601-INC- 32.0mm INCONEL Exhaust Valves (standard head diameter)

BC3960- 6.0mm INTAKE Valve Guides (Subaru EJ205, EJ257, EJ257B)

BC3961- 6.0mm EXHAUST Valve Guides (Subaru EJ205, EJ257, EJ257B)

 

god help me....

Oh dear god no. That absolutely sucks!!

Here's the breakdown on all the coolant hoses all over the top of the shortblock as well as the twisty PCV hose from the center of the crank case tot he black steel tubing

I forgot which hose this is 807611031

Water Pump Upper Hose 807612011

Hose Clamp 805918010

Water Pump Lower Hose 807615182

Hose Clamp 805922090

Aux Res Coolant Hose 14472AA050

Aux Coolant Hose 14472AA040

Coolant Water Pipe Hose 807611090

Pre-Heater Hose 21204AA900

Pre-Heater Hose 21204AA830

Vacuum Hose 99071AC220

Seems like this belongs/should be linked here too. Free if you mail me buckets you can't use. Inventory needs an update

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/lifter-bucket-exchange-thread-279743.html

This is great, I hadn't even thought of this. I bet I will have some buckets here shortly.

Out with the old and In with the new...

I replaced the lower control arms with Mevotech aluminum units from RockAuto which you can find here:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6506952&cc=1432742

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,2006,legacy,2.5l+h4,1432742,suspension,control+arm,10401

Picked up some new-to-me wheels and tires from FutureFicus whose car looks badass on the new meats I might add.

You can find his, much more interesting, thread here:

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/09-obxt-dbm-photo-journal-206005p5.html

Great pictures

Thanks for the help!

The answer was to change the color space from Adobe sRGB to regular RGB and shrink the file size well below the minimum to 512k and 1024 pixels on the long edge.

Some assembly required... with the factory three-bond (when did fujibond die?).

The shiny new oil pan meeting its new home.

A pic of how the engine sits now waiting for the heads to arrive... I have a new thermostat and gasket in there, a new oil cooler and I'm waiting on all new coolant lines from Flat Irons in fact for those that care Jon over there was nice enough to pull out the parts catalog and give me a list and links to all the parts. (If I'm beginning to sound like an advertisement I'm sorry. I'm just super impressed with their customer service. This car looks to ahve been pretty well maintaned mehcnically as the engine mounts have clearly been replaced with factory Subaru units as had the axles speaking of which.

Here is the list of the hoses I purchased:

https://www.flatironstuning.com/subaru-oem-pre-heater-hose-wrx-08-10-05-09-obxt-05-09-lgt-fxt-09-10

https://www.flatironstuning.com/subaru-oem-pre-heater-hose-08-14-wrx-05-09-lgt-05-09-obxt-09-13-fxt

https://www.flatironstuning.com/subaru-oem-coolant-water-pipe-hose-02-07-wrx-04-sti-05-06-lgt

https://www.flatironstuning.com/suabur-oem-aux-coolant-hose-08-14-wrx-09-13-fxt-05-09-lgt-obxt

https://www.flatironstuning.com/subaru-oem-aux-res-coolant-hose-08-14-wrx-05-09-lgt-obxt-09-13-fxt

https://www.flatironstuning.com/subaru-oem-waterpump-hoses-clamps-04-sti-02-14-wrx

https://www.flatironstuning.com/subaru-oem-oil-cooler-hoses-02-07-wrx-04-07-sti - You need 3 of these.

Here's some of the unsalvageable parts I had planned to reuse.. Take a look at the corrosion on that outlet.

Look at that cam gear. One of these exploded and killed my last STI Midlap on the dirt track. I took an extra close look at the ones on this STOCK car after cleaning them and found that SOB crack right there. That could have been disastrous!!

I could have re-used this clutch but you know..."While I was in there..."

Some of the reason my Credit Cards are sore... A new from FlatIrons Vf52, New oil lines, New Aisin Timing kit with all Japanese bearings, New 11mm Oil pump, new water pump. The master gasket set from Subaru (thanks for including a list of what the part numbers are there Subaru)

The center console cubby surround was destroyed so I picked up a factory fresh one from Subaru.

I am trying to keep as much on this car OEM as possible.

Here is the gasket set list that I used from 2phless on a certain other Subaru forum.

"Gasket set part number 10105AA590 Gasket & Seal Kit - ENG

My list key

list number/part number/ part name/ quantity/ what it is or where it goes.

1 / 803928010 / GSKT-28.2x33.5x1 / 3 / silver seals for the 14mm allen block access bolts

2 / 806786040 / OIL SEAL-86x103x10 / 3 / Rear main seal. Why 3? I don't know.

3 / 10991AA000 / O RING-CYL BLOCK / 4 / 3 between block halves. 1 behind oil pump. ** Looks similar to pt # 11 **

4 / 806931020 / O RING-31x2.0 / 1 (but came with 2) / #4 wrist pin access cover gasket (hidden by flywheel)

5 / 806932030 / O RING-32.6x2.7 / 1 / ???

6 / 11034AA000 / WASH-CYL BLK SLNG 6 / for the 6 internal 12mm 12 point block connecting bolts that contact oil.

7 / 11044AA641 / GSKT-CYL HEAD / 2 / Head gasket pair.

8 / 803912040 / GSKT-12x16x1 / 14 / Copper bango bolt washers (except for the turbo oil feed)

9 / 806910170 / O RING-10x2 / 2 / 2 orange gaskets for the bottom of the dipstick tube.

10 / 806917070 / O RING-17.4x2.4 / 1 / oil fill tube to LH valve cover

11 / 11122AA000 / SEALING-OIL PAN / 1 / This goes between the oil pump pickup and block. ** Looks similar to pt # 3 **

12 / 11126AA000 / GSKT-DRAIN PLUG / 1 / A crush ring for the drain plug. Nice of them huh?

13 / 805323040 / CIRCLIP-INR 23 / 8 / Wrist pin circlips

14 / 806742160 / OILSEAL-42x55x8 / 2 / Intake cam seals

15 / 806732160 / OILSEAL-32x55x8 / 2 / exhaust cam seals

16 / 13091AA050 / SEALING-TENSIONER / 2 / *** These are the rubber or foam stickies on the tensioner *

17 / 13091AA060 / SEALING-TENSIONER / 2 / * mount plate that keep dust out of the timing belt area *****

18 / 806939040 / O RING-39.4x3.1 / 2 / AVCR intake cam oil covers (the triangular covers held to the front of each intake cam sprocket by 3 philips/8mm bolts)

The next several part numbers are fairly unidentifiable. They are the foam stickies or rubber edges that seal the

timing chain covers.They have no dimentions or valid descriptions. They either have obvious spots or don't. I've

used RTV for the wishy washy areas before.

19 / 13581AA050 / SEALING-BELT CVR FR / 1 /

20 / 13594AA000 / SLNG-BELT COVER, 2FR / 1 /

21 / 13583AA260 / SEALING-BELT CVR RH / 1 /

22 / 13583AA270 / SEALING-BELT CVR / 1 /

23 / 13583AA280 / SEALING-BELT CVR / 1 /

24 / 13583AA290 / SEALING-BELT CVR RH / 2 /

25 / 13584AA050 / SLNG-BELT COVER, 2RH / 1 /

26 / 13597AA020 / SEALING-BELT CVR / 1 /

27 / 13597AA031 / SEALING-BELT CVR / 1 /

See?

28 / 13592AA011 / MOUNT-BELT COVER / 7 / Snap in rubber coated metal spacers for the t-cover-to-block bolts.

29 / 13207AA050 / SEAL-INT VALVE / 8 / intake valve seals (green???)

30 / 13211AA050 / SEAL-EXH VALVE / 8 / exhaust valve seals (black???) I haven't checked the difference yet.

31 / 13210AA020 / COLLET-VALVE / 32 / Small metal wedges. Dip concave side in thick grease to stick to valves during install.

32 / 13270AA190 / GSKT-ROCKER COVERRH / 1 / Right valve cover gasket.

33 / 13272AA140 / GSKT-ROCKER COVERLH / 1 / Left valve cover gasket.

34 / 13293AA050 / GSKT-ROCKER CVR,2 / 4 / Spark plug hole gaskets

35 / 806733030 / OIL SEAL-33x49x8 / 1 / oil pump to crank seal (front main)

36 / 15048AA001 / SEALING-OIL PUMP / 2 / More rubber pads for timing chain dust control.

37 / 806922040 / O RING-22.1x3.5 / 1 / This may be the recirc valve kneck o-ring

38 / 803942010 / GSKT-42x51x8.5 / 1 / Oil fill-tube cap gasket. (This was a puzzler the first time I saw one)

39 / 21114AA051 / GSKT-WATER PUMP / 1 / Water pump gasket. (Coated Metal)

40 / 21116AA010 / SEALING-WATER PUMP / 1 / And another rubber dust gasket for timing chain area.

41 / 21236AA010 / GSKT-THERMO / 1 / Thermostat gasket. Inner rib snaps around radius of the thermostat.

42 / 21370KA001 / GSKT-OIL COOLER / 2 / Orange and 1 goes between oil cooler and block. #2 included for backup?

43 / 806959030 / O RING-59.6x2.4 / 1 / Blue??? Not sure where it goes.

44 / 806932040 / O RING-32.0x1.9 / 1 / Orange and goes between the two block halves.

45 / 14035AA421 / GSKT-INT MANIF / 2 / *** One of these is the intake to tumblers *

46 / 14075AA160 / GSKT-INT COOL / 2 / * and the other is Tumblers to heads ******

47 / 16608AA040 / SEAL-FUEL INJ / 4 / Lumpy fuel injector seats

48 / 16698AA050 / O RING-INJECTOR / 4 / Lower small diameter injector o-rings ???

49 / 16698AA060 / O RING-INJECTOR / 4 / Upper large diameter injector o-rings ??? (or reversed)

50 / 14038AA000 / GSKT-EXH MANIF / 2 / head to exhaust manifold metal gaskets.

51 / 14022AA160 / GSKT-MF / 2 / Exhaust crossover gaskets? PN may be a typo as 44022AA160 was listed but I don't believe it.

52 / 803910050 / GSKT-10x14x1 / copper turbo oil feed banjo gaskets

53 / 16175AA241 / GSKT-THROT CHMBR / 1 / Blue paper throttle body gasket.

54 / 806933010 / O RING-33.7x3.5 / Water jacket crossover pipe to right and left blocks.

55 / 21896AA072 / GSKT - INTER COOLER / 2 / *** one pair is for the Y-pipe to TMIC, the other *

56 / 21896AA010 / GSKT - INTER COOLER / 2 / * pair is TMIC to recirculating valve. (2 why?) ****"