CapnJack

I've more or less got the exact same stuff on my WRX Gasket matching the ports on the heads couldn't hurt Maybe some phenolic spacers too?

 

+1 on phenolic spacers. IAG.

 

I'm curious why the phenolic spacers would be needed if keeping the plastic intake manifold?

 

I've heard they are not needed and offer little benefit?

THE BUILD WILL BE AS FOLLOWS:

 

IAG Stage 2 block

Factory Heads

Blouch 1.5xtr 3in/ 10cm

Grimmspeed EWG w/ Tial 38mm VTA

200Octane; Killer Bee style manifold

Catless DP, single exit 3in CB

IAG TGV Deletes

IAG fuel system w/ Aero FPR

ID1000's

Walbro pump

Grimmspeed CAI

RacersX FMIC

IAG AOS Race

ClimberD Valvebody

Grimmspeed EBCS

Perrin 3in inlet

ARP hardware

 

goal is 23psi

 

Should I be looking into anything else?

 

is a head port worth it?

 

 

Head porting is arguable at that point. The stock heads flow pretty well up to 500HP IMHO.

 

You may want to start to look into your cooling system(koyo or mishimoto). Depends on how long you plan to have your right foot on the go peddle. Maybe also a trans cooler?

 

Do you plan to go to E85? If so, you may want to consider something a little larger than ID1000s. ID1300s? What year is your car? If you are 05/06 - Consider a top feed conversion.

 

You will want to plan for a wideband as well.

 

How's your suspension and brakes?

However, according to Max they really really help with feel. Gears dont fight you anymore.

 

I can confirm that as well. I saw an instant improvement in shifting on mine after installing them. It was much more consistent and felt easier to shift.

 

Having done a back to back comparison of not having them then installing them(doing nothing else in the process), I would argue to those that say our transmissions don't flex. Why else would shifting improve?

That is awesome! Thank you very much!

I searched quite extensively as well for numbers on my car (OBP 2008 3.0R Limited) The best i could find is that there were less than 1000 of this specific color made. I would say with 99% certainty, that there are less than 10 of my exact car with the features on it (OEM remote start, XM radio, spoiler delete) and un-modded.

 

Unfortunately, all it does is bring bragging rights. If/when I trade it in on a newer car this spring, the dealer will low-ball me because in the end, it's still a ~10 year old car with 120K on it. If i tell them about the rarity and desirability for those that know the car, they will give me a blank stare and tell me that's what their computer says it worth. Sigh...

"Reliability is inversely proportional to the movement of your right foot." (and your tune )

Best of luck to you Dave! It has been a pleasure working with you on my tunes! I'm sad to hear this happening. I know it requires a lot of hard work and can't imagine the sacrifices on your part to provide the superior service you did these past four years. You have certainly made a respected name for yourself in the Subaru community world wide and that is something to be proud of.

 

Enjoy life and family! I look forward to continuing to follow you on Facebook!

Glad I found this thread. I didn't drive my LGT two years ago all winter and when I went to start it, I found my Optima Yellow Top was bad. It couldn't be revived! I put a new Red Top in and it drained too. I had just kept a trickle charger on it until I could dig into it. It all started after I did the wiring upgrade. I made the changes from this post this morning and all seems to be well.

 

Thanks for this and the research done to find the issue!!!

Did you happen to fill the tops of the square tubes on the plates with RTV so they don't fill with crap ?

 

Interesting about just drilling holes under the carpet. Your neck isn't red is it ? Sorry I couldn't pass that up.

 

I didn't fill the tubes. Hind-sight...

 

My neck isn't red, but my knuckles aren't bruised either! If someone were to look under the car, you would never know the difference. It's completely covered and sealed.

Didn't feel like dropping the transmission to install my Moore Performance Blast plates so pulled back the carpet on the inside of the car and drilled a small hole in the trans tunnel to put the bolt through from inside the car. Filled the hole with an electrical panel water tight stainless knockout plug, silicone'd it shut, then sprayed undercoating over the top of it.

Hope it works for everyone. MSG here if anything isn't looking right so everyone can see problems and fixes. Click HERE if you feel like donating any for the efforts. It isn't required by any means. I am charging for anyone not a member of the forums.

 

Drive on

 

Thanks for all your effort on this. I know you've put a lot of time into this. It is much appreciated!!! I donated as well.

CapnJack - if your IDCs are reasonable then there is no reason to upgrade the wiring. 12.48V is already significantly better than what has been observed with the smaller wiring.

 

I am curious why people are adding a new fuse/relay/line rather than running a parallel line in the stock wiring. Not even sure if the entire circuit needs to be done. I will measure the resistance across the following junctions:

 

M/B Fuse #11 -> FP Relay

FP Relay -> FPCM

FPCM -> FP (x2)

FPCM -> GND

 

I'm guessing it's the two in bold that are the problem, which could be solved with three lengths of wire. This avoids running a separate dedicated power feed with a redundant fuse and relay. I'm only proposing this because I am adding ~6 circuits via a separate panel and trying to optimize the wiring.

 

I'm looking to retune in the spring and push it some more. My idcs were good on the aeromotive 340 pump, but I stepped down to the dw65 since they seemed more e85 friendly. My 340 started dying.

Where is the FP relay located? I was thinking it was in the front of the car.

Well we installed zero1's fuel pump upgrade this past week into his 08 spec B and what did we find.....

 

The wiring is the same size as the STI!!!!!!

 

I guess the Spec B is special after all

 

Anyway we went ahead and wired the DW kit with relayed direct voltage to the pump but left the rest of it alone. Not sure we even needed to do that......

 

Here are a couple pics of the wiring.

 

That last pic just shows how we flipped the module mount and and bolted the relay but was by no means buttoned up

 

As you can see the wiring is as large or larger than an STI and I would guess really nothing needed to be done to this.

 

Ben will be running a rotated setup so we thought to just run direct battery voltage to the pump anyway.

 

We just popped the pins out of the module connector and the pump connector so we could return it to stock later if needed.

 

When done with the modified fuse installed we had 14.8 volts at the pump area on a cold startup day.....

 

I was about to do the wiring upgrade on my 07LGT with the DW kit. I noticed the wiring on mine is the same as above(as larger or larger than the STI). They must have switched mid year?

 

I've got the DW65 pump running an HTA68 with ID1000 injectors. Anyone see the need to perform the wiring upgrade or would the stock larger sized wiring be good enough?

 

Edit - Just checked it with a volt meter and at 100% duty cycle, the pump only receives 12.48 volts. Battery is 13.6.

Replacing my rear suspension lateral arms and bushings, the upper rear inner lateral link bolt froze in the bushing. Queue angle grinder with cut off wheel to grind the bolt off. Man, let me tell you... That thing was really in there. I shoved the angle grinder in there to cut the bolt off, blindly, since I couldn't get my head, arm, body, etc all in the rear wheel well. I got about halfway through the bolt and removed the grinder to see how I was doing. Not only did I cut halfway through the bolt, but also half way through the rear sub frame and my SPT exhaust system. Oh, and the rubber bushing was on fire too.

So you dumped one problem for another? Oh well. Hope it all starts working perfectly after this. Curious to hear your thoughts on the blast plates once you can start driving it.

 

I have ordered a bunch from Underdog and he is great to work with. I highly recommend him too.

 

Also curious to hear your thoughts on the blast plates. I love my 5MT and am hoping something as simple as this will help make it robust enough to handle higher HP. I really don't want to do a 6MT swap.

If you get -1.5 degrees out of the front, don't bring your rear beyond -0.5 unless you like understeer. I'd keep about 1 degree of difference until you get to 0 in the rear.

Our rear isn't adjustable without a camber kit (I have a whiteline kit), FYI.

 

Thank you! I meant to say, as both you and scoobyscoodle eluded to, to go the other way on front vs rear camber. I am trying to eliminate understeer as much as possible. I would rather be neutral or have it slightly oversteer.

I do have the whiteline kit as well, which I think will help. The bushings in my old lateral links were completely shot and bolts frozen. The last shop that aligned the car spun/tore one of the bushings and didn't say a word.

 

Thanks for all suggestions! I found an alignment shop in town that has a newer rack and the ability to use it (the more important of the two). I'm just waiting for my whiteline toe lock bolt kit to arrive tomorrow to button up this project and get it there.

Excuse the question, but what are you referring to as "rake" and how does it differ from caster?

 

Did you install different camber bolts to get to where you are or are you running an adjustable top hat?

Just finished installing all new Whiteline bushings front and rear, Spec B aluminum LCAs, rear trailing arms, and upper lateral link. In addition, I also installed adjustable rear lateral links in the rear. Time for an alignment.

 

I'm thinking in front:

Max out negative camber, but keep both sides the same - No camber plates installed.

Toe set to zero

Caster is what it is with the Whiteline LCA bushing kit.

 

In rear

Adjust camber to about -1.5, or at least -.5 greater than the front.

Toe set to zero (Not sure on this one though)

 

My goal is to have a balanced setup for street and track with more over-steer than under-steer. I would appreciate any thoughts or suggestions on how to proceed.

Awesome power. Jack, where did you get that Flex Fuel badge? lol

 

Dave, I'll be getting a catback exhaust and sending you another e-mail for a Stage 2 tune once I get that. I was wondering what sort of power numbers can be achieved at sea level (~300ft elevation), stock turbo on E85, with upgraded injectors and a DW65 pump. I can't seem to find a reliable source for an answer to this. Thanks!

 

Got it on eBay. I think it's from a newer Ford escape.

 

Imo you could probably expect 20whp or so out of the e85 conversion with proper fueling. Torque would jump as well.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Cap- awsome numbers, good to see the results on paper finally.

 

Dave

 

Thanks Dave! I think I made a corvette guy jealous at work. He's only making 40 more upwith twice tthe cylinders.

Finally got some numbers on my E85 tune from Dave. I went to Karl Performance in Des Moines this afternoon and got on their Superflow Dyno.

I have to hand it to Dave. I have SAFE/RELIABLE power that I LOVE to drive. I drove the car 1.5 hours from home to the dyno, ran it on the dyno, then drove it home without one worry. How could one ask for more?

 

E-85 put down 386WHP and 365WTQ.

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jMnQzoMCqJw]Karl Performance - 07 Stage 3.5 Legacy GT - E-85 - YouTube[/ame]

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RyPc7X5YHnA]Karl Performance - 07 Stage 3.5 Legacy GT - E85 - YouTube[/ame]

Finished up the outside. Still not sold on the color, but doesn't matter since I'm selling it in three months. The next person can paint it any color they like.

A few more suggestions for changes where I feel others have not met par.

 

-Where the BPV bolts on, the holes for the bolts should not extend into the pressure chamber of the IC. The bolts then become a leak path and require gobs of sillycone to seal them properly.

-Offer a hose kit to fit your IC to the stock TB. Trying to turn the Subaru one to the correct 1/4 degree to make it fit properly makes it impossible to fit properly.

-Make it look pretty. Even some of the higher end ones look like a 5 year old Chinese boy welded it in their dad's shop.

Couldn't be happier that I found Dave at CryoTune Performance! Each revision impresses me more and more. Dave is helping me build the car I've always wanted to. My three year long dream is becoming reality. We are working on my E85 tune right now. The communication is unbeatable and the revisions come extremely fast and are spot on(in fact, my next one just showed up from some logs I did a couple of hours ago). I have complete faith that my car is safe to drive. My pump gas final numbers on the dyno prove you can make high horsepower, safely, with an E-Tune. I'm excited to see the E85 numbers.

If you have any reservations, put them aside. If you have any questions about my experience, feel free to PM me as well.

I get more flack for my license plate covers. (tinted)

 

I've also been pulled over for tinted windows. Cop thought I may have had drugs in the car.

 

Car otherwise looks pretty stock.

 

State patrol near Racine has hit me once for tint and local sheriff was also looking for something to do. In fact, with the sheriff, I was already pulled over on the side of the road doing screen shots from a 2nd gear pull. He pulled me over (while I was pulled over) and asked what I was doing.

 

Me: Just doing some data logging officer.

Him: Ahh, Ok! I was just making sure you were ok. Mind if I see your license?

Me: Ok, here you go sir!

After he runs my plates

Him: So what are you logging?

Me: You know, air fuel ratio, knock count, wastegate duty cycle

Him: Ah! You're trying to get better fuel mileage!

Me: Yes sir!!!

Him: Well just to let you know, your license plate covers are illegal and should be removed.

Me: OH! OK, I will take care of that!

Just wrapping up my stage 3.5, 91 octane tune with Dave. Level of service far exceeded my expectations. I searched for quite a while for an e-tuner and am thrilled I found Cryotune. Rev updates came freaky fast and all my questions were answered promptly and professionally. I could not be more satisfied! If you have any hesitations, put them aside and go with Dave. You will not be disappointed!

Next up - building a corn burning tune to let this HTA68 stretch its legs...

 

I got the car on a dyno this past weekend to see what it would do. Not bad for pump gas on a BNR HTA68. Dave and I are going to work on an E85 tune next.

 

Car put down 320WHP and 307WTQ on a Mustang Dyno. Stock STI's run in the 215WHP range on this dyno.

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JKLNddprkEg]Kelly Moss Motorsports - 07 Stage 3.5 Legacy GT - YouTube[/ame]