tdelker

Interesting. Any how to on the outer? When I took mine apart I couldn't see how to get the outer apart. The inner had a snap ring to remove. I see this: "TO REMOVE THE OUTER CV JOINT: There is a splined section with a snap ring on it. Take the half shaft out, clamp the shaft in a vice, and use a large socket extension (3/4" is nice) and smack it with a large hammer a few times. You won't be able to find a large snap ring like inner CV, because there's isn't one there!"

Is it torn, or just leaking from under the clamp? If it's just leaking under the clamp, put a new clamp on. No need to reboot. Outer boot requires taking apart the inner to slide it on, so you'll have to reboot the inner as well. BA kit is good for this. Some say OE from dealer only, but I don't see that.

Here's a kit: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS335-Mountable-Auxiliary-Adapter/dp/B003B01AHS/ref=pd_ybh_5]Amazon.com: iSimple IS335 Dash Mountable Auxiliary Input Adapter: Car Electronics[/ame]

Thank you!

It is my understanding that there are two sensors down by the pedal that are redundant. When they disagree, it throws this code. If one of those sensors has a flat spot, replacing the pedal will resolve the code. FSM troubleshoot steps have you looking at the pedal assembly or the harness to the ECM or the voltage supply to the pedal. Can't see where it could be anywhere else. For some reason dealers like replacing the throttle body sensor, but I don't see why. This code has nothing to do with that.

Several people report success after replacing the pedal assembly. Why do you think that's not the problem? Because of the connection with the MAF?

From: http://www.iwsti.com/forums/ecu-tuning-performance-electronics/200004-possible-throttle-position-sensor-problem-surge-effect-while-crusing-2.html "They gave me some Subaru "Throttle Plate & Induction Cleaner" and told me to take shop rags and pull off the TMIC. Once the TMIC was removed, there's a little flapper - or - butterfly valve in the throttle body. I sprayed the piss out of it and took shop rags and wiped all over the inside and each side of the flapper."

Sorry, haven't found it - Would 2005 XT wheels (17" x 7" 48 mm offset I believe) work with a 2010 LGT that currently has 18" wheels on it?

Thanks for the clearification. I thought that I had seen somewhere a plot where someone showed the 'blip' that caused the P2138 code to get set. I think I misinterpreted that. But either way, it would be good to get traces of throttle plate angle and pedal angle when the code is set. Here is a link with the FSM troubleshooting steps for P2138: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=803788

^This exactly! It's just telling you the two redudent sensors aren't agreeing. Since it's happening so much, you can hook up a cable and laptop and use freessm to monitor both sensors.

Agreed, turning off the car and waiting a few minutes should clear the code. There is a set amount of time or a set number of starts (3?) that will clear the code if the issue doesn't repeat itself. Nothing to do with MAF. You can reach the connector on the pedal assemble, unplug and replug it pretty easily. If that's where your problem is, it should keep the problem from reappearing for a while (repeats every few years for me).

Replace any seals that are leaking, otherwise leave it alone. That's the advice. If you want to do preventative maintenance, replace the cam seals, crank seals, water pump. timing belt cover seal is probably not needed. It just keeps dirt/moisture out, it doesn't seal anything in.

I had same issue. Replace the hose.

My circa 2007 cable does not work with iphone 5. I wonder if it is because it predates the iphone. This pinout suggest that for iphone pin 11 has to be connect to ground for the iphone to output to the analog lines. When mine is hooked up it just plays from the iphone speaker. http://pinouts.ru/PortableDevices/ipod_pinout.shtml But I would really like to see someone confirm the iphone 5 with lightning to 30 pin works with the PAC cable Jazzy sells. I will PM jazzy to see if he'll take it back if it doesn't and I will post my results if it does work. Tom

Regarding the adapter, yes, it changes the digital audio to analog. Does it change the 12V to the 5V? I couldn't figure that out. At some point the devices stopped accepting 12V changing, and went to only 5V charging. The cable I got in 07 only did 12V, and I bought a small adapter for the end that then changed it to 5V. It's not clear if the 30 pin to lightening adapter already has this built in.

Freaking amazing! Thanks everyone for letting me know what this new sound was. Not sure I'll fix it any time soon, but at least I know I can ignore it! 2005 XT

Mine is still fixed a few years later...

Fair enough. I've done it twice on the inner, neither were making sounds. One went several 1000's torn. Now gone about 5k on the first reboot, still fine. Takes about a 1/2 hour from removal to reinstall to clean up and reboot. That's worth $50 savings to me, but I'm a garage mechanic that doesn't have to worry about a customer complaining (if you don't count my wife!). You still read posts with Subaru's vibrating in D after install of an aftermarket axle. Those posts made me shy of buying an aftermarket, which is why I rebooted. Now that I've done it once, I can't imagine not just doing that, unless the axle is making sound, at which point I would pull it apart and take a look and decide then what to do. That's my experience, limited as it might be. Tom

In theory, sure, this is an issue. In practice, most axles will reboot just fine. The Subaru axle is pretty tough. I had one go for months, rebooted, still going strong. No sound. Just did the other one, but I caught that early. It's so easy, reboot and see how it goes. You will hear the axle long before it fails. Someone over on subaruoutback.org claims he reboots even when they are making sounds and with new lube they are fine. I believe it quite honestly.

Not for 2.5 DOHC. It might make it slightly easier if you pull both cams off and the rear timing cover (it is a little tight getting it back in with the gasket and sealant) but that's a lot of work for little payoff.

So far so good. Much different shifting, as I said - No more 2nd to 3rd shift shock. I'll report back if something bad happens. Also finally change the front and rear differential fluid. I'll make a note to do the ATF again in 60k. Tom

PS: This appears to have solved a hard shift between 2nd and 3rd in my 5EAT. Much smoother now. I really should have done this is 60k rather than 105k!

Any danger of running dry at 4 qts? I thought that was the capacity of the pan.

Worked like a charm! 2005 Outback XT. Used the suggestions from BarManBean, unhooked the rear line coming from the radiator cooler (I had just taken this off two weeks ago for the timing belt - It was quite tough to get off then. Grabbed it gently with pliers and twisted until the seal was broken. Then pulled by hand). It comes out fairly slowly. 5 seconds was well less than a quart. I put in 10 quarts, but it didn't come out clean. I only had 11, and I wanted one for topping off, so I stopped. The fluid on the stick was very clean. I can only hope I was close. I think capacity is 12. I marked an old washer fluid container and stuffed the end of the hose direct from the car in there. I would pump out 2 qts, fill two new quarts in with a funnel and a 1-2 ft flexible hose (came as a unit from Oreilly - the cheapish plastic gray one with a clearish ribbed hose) leaving the funnel in place the whole time. After 7 years and 105k, the old fluid looked a lot like oil, and nothing like ATF. I've noticed hard shifting lately. Hopefully this will help. Otherwise I'll ask the dealer to relearn the shifting. Apparently something they do on the lift with the Subaru Select Monitor III. Thanks for the tips! Probably should have done it a lot sooner! EDIT: after thinking about it, I realize I should have drained the pan. Since it holds 4 qts, when you empty the first two, you are then adding two new quarts to two old quarts. Probably better to drain, and start with 4 fresh in there.

You are fine, since you could have to remove the head. You just have to know how to put it all back together right! Mark things as you pull them off, which cam is on which side, and orientation. You can only turn them one way to get them lined back up. Get a service manual so you know...