tdelker

Dang it! 115 psi on cylinder 3, 15 psi on cylinder 4. I didn't try the oil thing since the engine is horizontal it doesn't seem like it is going to help seal a ring. And I don't think it matters. Now that I know it's mechanical in the engine, it's a new engine for me. Pulling and repairing seems like it will take too long and a 60k used engine for 1.6k + shipping (probably around 2k total) seems like the right way to go. Anyone bought from https://www.lowmilejdm.com ? Any other suggestions? Thanks! Tom

Finally did a little bit on this - Swapped plugs and coil pack between 3 and 4. Still misfiring on 4. Next is compression test. Thanks!

Thanks! This isn't intermittent, it's continuous. Add idle and under acceleration. I did the timing belt myself at 110k a few years ago. Seems unrelated. If it was intermittent I would be looking at the normal 'burnt valve on #4' scenario, but since happened suddenly and completely that seems unlikely. I haven't had time to tear in to it yet. Probably have a few more weeks before I get to it. Lucky my son has a car that he can't drive yet! I'll have to get it fixed before he gets his license in Jan 2023!

Step 1 complete. Only code was P0304. Nothing else.

2010 LGT with great maintenance. Bought used with 60K. Now has 150K. Got a hard misfire on #4 all the time. Didn't think I had time to deal with it, so brought it to the dealership. Within a 1/2 hr they called and said that it was a 'dead hole' and wanted me to authorize $1.5k/ 10 hrs of work to pull engine and diagnose. I asked if they had already done a compression test. Sales rep said, yes, they hooked up to the computer and it said that it was in the engine and they needed to tear it down to get to the cause. Wow! That's an amazing computer! There is no way they got a compression test done that fast. Soooo... I am going to go it alone. Steps: 1) get codes when I pick up the car (or use my own scanner) 2) See if moving coil on plug moves the fault 3) Any idea how to verify the signal to the coil is good if the fault doesn't move with the coil? Old fashion timing light (I don't have one)? Put in plug and look for spark? 4) Do the finger test. If no compression, buy a rebuild? If some compression, get a compression test kit and measure it for real. Any leads on a place to buy a new or rebuilt LGT engine? Thanks! Tom

Since I haven't seen any 2010 LGT specific info, I'll put in my experience from doing it this weekend. 1) Bought the rock auto 328N kit, all the parts seemed to be OEM as far as I could tell. 2) The instructions in the box talk about failure of new timing belt installs, and how their engineering dept has looked in to it, and they are pretty sure it was because people weren't gapping the belt guides properly. They include a gap tool and some locktite 3) I followed the factory service manual pretty much exactly. Off the top of my head a) Remove fans b) Remove alternator c) Remove power steering pump (don't disconnect hoses) and put it off by the wheel well d) Remove pitch stop e) Remove PVC hose and blow off valve f) Remove charge pipe from turbo to intercooler (That's why you had to remove all the previous stuff!) g) remove timing covers h) I used the Company23 cam locking tool. I will sell it to the next person. Worked well! h) Now normal timing belt change. 4) No need to remove the radiator! No mentioned in FSM either. 4a) I also never did anything from below even the the FSM said you had to do some things from under. I didn't see the need. 5) Bleeding the tensioner was both easy and hard. I used a c-clamp (who has a vertical vice?). I'd never done that before. Lots of caution words about not doing it. The shaft spun with the clamp, but it was easy enough to the pin to turn it back and line it up. Just go slow, and when it's hard to push, slow down. 6) There were double white stripes on my upper cams on both sides on the top (where there is a single mark on the cam. I couldn't understand that until I was putting the belt on, and it appears the rear cover guide was off somewhat. The belt goes on the mark on the cam, but the cam needed to be lined up one tooth off on the cover (where the 2nd white mark was) to get the belt to line up on the lower exhaust cam. 7) Putting the belt on is always tough for me. I can never get all the marks lined up and then the belt on the last pulley straight away. a) Had to use the company23 tool to turn the upper and lower drivers side cams one tooth to get the belt to go on. b) I put on crank, DS upper cam, DS lower cam, PS upper cam, PS lower cam, then the last idler as shown in the FSM. It took me about 2 hours to finally get the belt on. It didn't go on until I rotated the DS cam a tooth off from the cover marks, but they then lined up with the white marks the factory put on there. The belt lined up on the original cam marks as intended. c) I used a pry bar to line up the last idler so I could thread the bolt by hand. I made the mistake 5 years ago on my XT of trying to use the bolt to pull the cam on, and stripped some of the threads in the block. This time it was super easy once I got the idler lined up. 5) I wish I had more locktite for the belt guides. I was scrapping bottom on the blue tube that came with the timing belt 6) Putting it back together was pretty easy. I did have one belt guide bolt in a cover bolt hole on the bottom. That took me a few minutes to figure out why the cover wouldn't sit flat. They are the same thread size. My ops-es - 1) I have one bolt left over, and have no idea where it came from. I remember the point early on when I realized I needed to be more orgnaized, and started making sure the bolts were with the item I took off, but couldn't identify where this one went to. It was very much at the start, so nothing super important. It's just bothering me! 2) I'm pretty certain that I didn't tighten the hose clamp on the BOV. I'll have to reach down and do that soon! Good luck to any Gen 5 LGT owners out there going after this! Tom

Any hints/variants for a 2010 LGT? I did my 05 XT, and now my 2010 LGT needs this. Seems different enough, I'm surprised no one has done a separate walk through.

Seems like now that you have iosolated the issue it would be wise to buy a new pedal assembly to have a properly functioning car with correct redundant sensors to make sure you don't have an run away situation.

I'm on board with this, but I don't think my wife would be too happy with that solution. Plus it would cost more than just taking it to the dealer, both for girlfriend for the week and the marriage capitol that I would have to spend for the rest of my life

Yes, you can. When you notice the vibration in drive with your foot on the brake, let us know. For my Tribeca it was a vibration in about 40 MPH that was driving me nuts. Fixed with a used OEM axle.

Most subaru people agree - NGK, what is in the owner's manual only.

Cool! Suggestions on a laser? This one seems like good value: http://www.harborfreight.com/self-leveling-laser-level-kit-69243.html

This worked, very good! Just used it to buy the puddle light kit, interior illumination kit and sill plates. Saved $117 from their price which was nearly as low as any I could find. Thanks again! Tom

Solve a vibration at 55 mph for my 08 Tribeca. I thought that I would mention it since most times I see the issue as a vibration in drive. This was not that, just a vibration around 55. I bought a used Tribeca axle for $36 from subarupair used parts yesterday afternoon along with a new diff seal. They wouldn't sell me a new axle nut. They said no way you need it. Replaced the one side that was clearly aftermarket (replaced by previous owner, inner cup was bare metal and didn't have the three indents like the subaru with green cups) and sure enough, the vibration at 55 is gone. Sweeeeeeet.... Took an easy going 2 hours. I used the FSM (attached section) and these instructions http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...highlight=seal http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/...oil-r-r-2.html for seal replacement. I used a small claw hammer to remove and drove it in with the old seal on the outside and a 32 mm socket on that. I did go after the ball joint, as here in colorado they don't rust. Others in the NE or other salt road areas report bad luck doing this.

Amazon had the best prices for the beck arnley boots for subarus that I could find.

Leaking power steering pump can also cause a strong oil burning smell. It's also very common. Easy fix with an oring. Gotta take a look to know...

Nice job! I'm guessing you weren't obsessing over the posts in here, and just figured it out on your own. Watch out for the pulley separating. I've wondered if they people who have the pulley fail had a strap wrench used on it at some point.

If you are going after the LCA, you need to remove the stabilizer bar/end links to be able to move it down enough. There are three ways to go: 1) Pinch bolt and pry as others have said 2) Ball Joint Spindle and pry as others have mentioned 3) Strut bolts (2). I'm sure others have mentioned that in this thread. Make the upper bolt head with the line on it to make sure you keep your alignment. This is the least risky if you are having issues with the LBJ.

You can see the oil is coming from up and to the left in the picture with the oil filter in it. I'm not familar enough with the SOHC engine to suggest what is up there. Might be head gasket?

It's been a while, but I think there were different length screws when you took the radio apart. You got them in the wrong places...

Yes, use the coolant conditioner if you owners manual says to use it. Subaru only. Regarding coolant, I've only ever needed 1 gallon of the unmixed. Mixed its 2 gallons, plenty for all subaru's. If you have the super-long life, then you need can only buy it premixed or in small unmixed quarts I think (?). Of course that's a much longer life antifreeze. I only buy subaru brand. For $5 more, it's worth not worrying. Regarding pulley, yes easy to make your own tool, or use 3/8 ratchet extensions in the holes and a plybar between them.

Never deionized. It's very corrosive. Just distilled.

I had done this very successfully on my 05 XT a few years ago. I repeated this recently on my 08 tribeca (same 5EAT). I had a messy surprise. The line that comes off the bottom of the transmission cooler is NOT the return line. It's the supply. This is different than my XT. Had the bucket all set up for it to come out of the bottom, but it came from the other side of the line and made quite the mess! I also tried the predrain and fill to see if I got clear fluid out sooner. However, that didn't seem to save anything, I could have easily just done it the original way of never opening the drain plug. Used 10 qts and it was clean at the end. Guestimated the spills and was about a 1/2 qt low (this is what I determined was the difference between full and low lines - interested if others found the same). Still, nice to know I got the Brakes Plus junk out of there the previous owner put in based on their recommendation. No idea what the fluid actual was, but it smelled and looked like gear oil!

The OEM axle is well balanced and high quality. After market is not going to be the same quality. As long as the boots are replaced if torn before too long, keeping it is the best bet. There are tons of threads out there on 'shaking' cars in D at stop because of aftermarket axles. Rebooting is easy, but if you are just seeping, I would though a new band on there. Sounds like you need to pull the axle to do that.

Yes, here is a long screw vs short screw issue that can prevent the CD from working properly.