BAC5.2

Liability, probably. Quick lube places would drain the transmission and overfill the engine. To the general public, the possibility of this happening implies a design flaw. The older VW automatics were entirely sealed and non-serviceable. Imagine that for a PITA!

Oh... I thought it was a demonstration of redshift...

I LOL'd at the third pic.

It does as far as I know. You could get a 2.5i with automatic climate control (in 2009 at least, the 2.5i Limited Outback had all the trimmings of the 2.5XT and 3.0R Limited, without the cool motor). I bet you could get a 2.5i ECU to work in your "GT" without too much heartache.

"anyone capable of getting themselves made president, should by no means be allowed to do the job" - Douglas Adams

The great Enzo Ferrari said that iirc.

Lol. There's absolutely no problem powdercoating wheels. They look sick.

Ugh, one of yet another side projects I want to toss together. Build an efficiency gauge for the intercooler. So many ideas, so little time.

They are things I know (quite well in fact). My point was simply to say that at the end of the day, outlet temps matter the most. If the aluminum TMIC has a bit more heat soak on the hot side, the outlet temps being the same or lower than the stock intercooler are proof in point the efficiency of a better designed intercooler. People get so caught up in the concept of "heatsoak", but I'm pretty sure they have no idea why. I've been really interested in designing one, but I just don't have the time. I know the results would be awesome, and I know I could build one that would be sufficient to maintain nearly constant intake temps. I just don't have the time to devote to doing it as correctly as I want. I might shoot you a PM about the setup you did. Maybe I'll casually design something for my own use. I have some pretty cool ideas for how I want to set it up. Which is why I'm done with this thread. You can lead a horse to water, but you can't make him drink. I've put the science and the facts out there. If people STILL don't want to believe science and fact, then I suggest ice to go with the kool-aide.

The Racer-X is perfect, if you don't mind having a front mount. It's innexpensive, high quality, easy to install, and well proven. My reason for not wanting a front mount is simple. I don't want to cut up my bumper, and I don't have a non-stock turbo. If either of those things change, then I'll probably just get a TurboXS front mount. Or design my own AWIC.

The runners are larger in diameter and have cooling fin density approaching stock. So volume to surface area is actually greater than stock. Toss a heat blanket onto the turbo, and wrap the down pipe, and you have a recipe for a great setup. A heat exchanger does not have to be longer if it is more efficient. The hot side end tank does heat soak, but all that matters is temp at outlet. If you have consistently lower temps at outlet, it doesn't matter what the other side of the intercooler is doing. A bulletproofed stock intercooler is fine if you don't want to spend the money to upgrade. You will be more efficient with an aftermarket TMIC, though. You will make the same power at lower boost. I will be using an aftermarket TMIC on my stage 2 setup. Ultimately, I may design my own air-water intercooler, but I will use my IPR with confidence until that day comes (if it ever does. I am plenty busy finishing my masters degree at the moment).

They are still in the car. I can post a pic or two when I get back to the USA. Or just Google a 2009 outback XT and you'll see the wheels I am talking about.

I'll sell you my 09 OBXT wheels with 10k old 225/55/17 pilot sport plus tires.

That's not true. The people saying the Perrin and AVO intercoolers have "crappy cooling efficiency" don't know what they are talking about. Everyone who has said something to that effect has made the incorrect assumption that the new core is not internally finned. It's an option, but you do have higher power capacity with an aftermarket TMIC. If you just want the car to hold together and don't want to spend money, then this is a great solution. Or if you are concerned with weight, because I know that matters to some people. On an LGT, there are well documented gains to be had from a TMIC upgrade.

The same one the Viper uses! I thought you knew something about LS motors?

A C5 Corvette Z06 will do 12.40's all day long. A new SRT-10 Viper can do very low 11's, even 10's, all day long. An EVO 8 (with sunroof) can pull a 12.90 if the guy is lucky. All bone stock.

Here we go again. PartyRock - SeeeeYa is wrong, and he won't listen to science. Let him live in his own little world. For a reason why, I suggest investing 5 minutes into reading this: http://lifehacker.com/5811255/why-you-cant-win-an-argument-on-the-internet

It is. That's why they get paid per song download now. If I can buy just the song I want, I'm not going to buy the album for much more money.

Has anyone done the STi BB/MC install on an 07+? Any issues? I'm definitely going to need the larger MC for my potential brake setup.

I've sat down, and to get an LSX into a Subaru and keep AWD, would require you to cut a big LS shaped hole in the front bumper, and have the front of the engine sit just in front of the A/C condenser. Since LS V8's don't make good crumple zones, your options for a V8 Subaru is RWD or bust. I've seriously looked into this.

What if he'd already emptied the account of funds and disassociated the account from his bank and credit card?

I think Rugger is talking about the SAAB-Viper.

But that $80 "new" axle is not an OEM axle. I've seen a lot of problems with non-OEM axles. They just don't seem to hold up, or they are terribly assembled. That said, rebuilding axles is one of my least favorite jobs.

What knob is it? Just a stock one?

I really don't think those are sufficiently structurally sound. You got hosed when you bought them, for sure. Shame, because they look fantastic on your car. They would probably be OK to run on a 5x114 car, but on a 5x100 car, I wouldn't even consider them.