fishbone

I believe you can log it. I forget what it's called, something like AT Timing Retard. IIRC there might be 2 parameters associated with it, one is the 0/1 value for ON/OFF, and the other is a measure of the actual timing pulled.

I've been wondering if you're allowed to be an asshole and add positive values

Does this mean that when the TCU sends the signal to the ECU to retard timing, the amount of timing retard is 0? Just making sure I am reading that right.

I looked on the bottle and it basically says dump the whole thing in the tank and be done with it. It seems there is absolutely no special way to use it from your typical fuel additive.

Not to go too much offtopic here, but my understanding is that phenolic spacers ultimately suffer from the effect of diminishing returns. Eventually they do warm up, and without some sort of active cooling, the intake temp difference from a stock set-up diminishes to a certain point.

The 1-2 lazy shift, as far as I can tell, is there on purpose to smooth out the operation of the 5EAT and ensure a comfy ride. As a result, it may sometimes lead an overly cautious and OCD performance oriented enthusiast owner to question whether or not the clutches are slipping. That is the ONE thing that my IPT valve body did not do a whole lot about. It is a learned behavior by the TCU. I know this because upon TCU reset, it shifts kick-ass. It also shifts kick-ass after a short stint of driving like a jackass. Then the trans firms up. Basically I need to stop driving like an old person 90% of the time.

Anyone else having the lazy 1-2 shift? Most annoying issue about the trans. It's the one behavior that's keeping me paranoid about slipping clutches.

I ask because I've sat on the brakes at the dragstrip for longer than 5 seconds. I imagine other than stressing the ATF, as long as the rpms did not exceed stall speed, no harm was done. Please say I'm right.

Nevermind, I think I got my answer. You can follow the same procedure with the car in Reverse too.

Unless you're an asshole. Then it's close to 4K rpm. The repair manual says at sea level, stall speed for turbo is 3100-3500, non-turbo is 2400-2800. The outlined procedure to test the stall speed is: -bring the car up to normal operating temp -mash your foot on the brake pedal firmly -put the car in 2nd gear -press the gas pedal gradually and take notice when the rpms stabilize, stop accelerating -don't do it for more than 5 seconds counting from when you touch the gas pedal until you've gone WOT The manual says if you do it for too long you can damage the ATF and the clutch. It doesn't say which clutch. David?

Thanks for sharing your experience. How did you monitor the temperature, or what leads you to say it did not overheat? What was the outside temp?

If your specific ECU is not listed in the supported ECU definition, I would treat it as such and not rely on any tuning solution wich does not explicitly list it. If it was so close as to be pretty much identical, it would be either trivial to include support, or would be on the list to begin with. If I were you, I would inquire on ROMRaider forums to see if anyone knows any specifics as to compatibility issues, etc. Either way, at the moment you are using a tool that technically does not support your vehicle, therefore any and all issues could potentially be caused by this lack of compatibility.

giogio43, you'll need to start a new thread here in the Tuning section, many of your questions are going above and beyond the intent of this thread, which, amongst others, assumes a basic knowledge of datalogging.

I do not see your car on this list. Am I wrong? http://www.romraider.com/forum/topic360.html

If you can't find the option, it's not there. There's a lot of work that goes into developing ECU definitions (teaching your program what to listen for and how to interpret the signal). Any other questions should be directed to the software developer.

If your IAM is at 0.64, your car is very unhappy. It should read 1.0, anything less means you have significant amounts of knock. Posting an image of Learning View would help too. The terminologies are different a bit because we are talking about two different programs here: ROMRaider and Cobb Tuning's AccessPort/AccessTuner

Yes, your torque converter is multiplying torque and the car is "catching up".

I took SeeeeeYa's cocktail and poured it in a shotglass and slammed it back. Had to call the doctor for an erection lasting longer than 4 hours. And then a hooker.

Disconnecting the battery will neither reset the TCU, nor will it clear the stored code. When you say that FreeSSM says "not completed" do you mean that you get that message upon resetting the learned parameters 2? That may indicate that FreeSSM is not compatible. Was the light blinking before you hooked up FreeSSM? At this point your only option is going to the dealer and having them use SSM to interface with the TCU properly, find out the root cause of the flashing light and go from there. Have you checked your ATF fluid level?

Ordered the sensor already, identical to the one i took off the vehicle. Part number is as I thought 22641aa32a. Now on to the rear sensor.

Good point, but consider that those who prefer to charge for their services already do so. Those that don't care about the monetary part, voluntarily contribute to this forum.

5EAT has front and rear speed sensors. Should one fail, it falls back on the ABS sensors and throws up a CEL and occasionally shifts like shit. Ask me how I know.

Can I confirm that for the front O2 sensor the part # is 22641aa32a? I have a 2005 LGT auto and I am looking online and the 2005 is not coming up with that part #. I checked with Fred Beans and while they do carry the part above, if look for the sensor by the car year/model, there is another one that comes up. No part # listed but the price is different.

Welcome to my world. Can you also post a Learning View?

Figure I'm OK for a while then?