fishbone

ben64, it depends how it is done. If the fluid is drained and refilled then no, the fluid that is in the torque converter is trapped there and is not exchanged. The only way to exchange all the fluid at the same time is to use a fluid exchange machine. The control valve body is the brain of the transmission that makes it go vroom-vroom and shift gears.

Because it was brought up: Like fahr_side already said, mpg will be worse and a higher grade will be required, so all in all now you have a car that you're spending more money on gas. It's as if you guys don't want to hear the cons at all. We're just having a conversation, you're under no obligation to really take to heart anything that is being said should you choose not to. That may be true, but you can't really counter what you think are assumptions, with bigger assumptions. An aftermarket supercharger added onto a NA engine is almost never less hungry on gas for the reasons fahr_side already called out. It will need more gas of a higher octane. Even the kit being DIY, these kinds of installs are rarely turnkey, and the modding bit isn't DIY. You're very, very optimistic in your prospect of installing a supercharger kit which I would attribute to lack of experience. Which is fine, but what's in it for you is to be receptive. Several have failed at stock levels. I've been following this thread on it So at this point as far as the topic of supercharging the 2.5i, it's going to be a waiting game that will be educational for everyone. However, the first order of business for anyone going down this path would be to make sure the car is more stable than stock first: upgrades to suspensions and braking. Otherwise you're going to have a somewhat fast boat.

A couple points. Limited for limited, 2.5 vs 3.6 is just about $3K USD difference between the cars. A 2.5i is not going to get away with just 3 grand to have a supercharger kit profesionally installed and pro-tuned. Fuel economy is out of the discussion altogether at that point primarily because the 2.5i is going to be required to run premium, whereas the 3.6R will run on regular, and fuel consumption is pretty much expected to go up a notch. Cars are not an investment, they are a liability. An aftermarket supercharged 2.5i is going to drop its resale appeal like a rock; it will essentially place you in the market only for enthusiasts, and you'll never see dollar for dollar no matter what. From a resale perspective, a modded car is a bad deal. Then the question is how the CVT holds up to the extra power. I am all for someone else finding out what the limit is

Yes, I used a bad term because it implies pressure. It's just jargon. What we mean when we say flush it is basically using a fluid exchange machine to feed fresh fluid in and allow the old to train out. Most modern transmission fluid machines work under this principle. They don't pressurize the fluid, they allow the transmission's own pump to suck up fresh fluid and the old one is routed out. Power flushes, reverse flushes, those are harmful.

Ok, so I did some clicking. http://www.raptorsc.com.au/subaru8.html The kit alone is $3400 cheapest one. Add at least $650 for getting it tuned. This is in AUD. That means about $2500 USD plus about $480 for tuning. Labor is additional and I'd like to know what that brings up the total dollar amount to. $400 for what's essentially a pro-tune is a very reasonable price. The kit price ain't bad either.

Alright, there's quite a lot to unpack in that last reply, tigger so I won't quote it in its entirety and take it line by line because it's going to get quite lengthy. There's a lot of baggage assigned to me for things that simply were not said by me. Nobody is saying don't mod, you can mod any car you want, the question is does it make sense? If you're not interested in objective opinions that's fine, but you'll have to learn to filter them for yourself. Asking the turbo guys to just keep to themselves is illogical and is basically asking other people to manage themselves just for your satisfaction. Forget about what we drive. Do you or do you not value experience? I'm not here to be a killjoy for anyone. How is it possible to be a killjoy if you already have good reasons to do what you're doing? I'm asking objective questions. Forget I said anything about the WRX, I think an ECU tune is worth doing on any Subaru as there's some gains to be had by simple virtue of the stock maps almost always being conservative. Shaving off 3 seconds from stock is pretty damn good, and the fact that you're improving drivability and response greatly is just about enough to dispell any criticism of what you're doing. But you're going beyond this and asking a question about supercharging the 2.5i. My response was strictly aimed at this question. Are you sure you understand the path that lies ahead should you go this route? Here's the short story: more money than the difference needed for you to get a WRX if you were to sell the 2.5i and still not the same performance, assuming everything is turnkey. Simple question: why would you pay more for less? That's really what you're asking: should I pay more, for less? Of course, there's always the possibility of being wrong. So what's the cost for the kit, installed, turnkey? So if I were to drop off a 2.5i and pick up a supercharged 2.5i, what's the cost? Kit, labor, tune, everything. I would actually like to know this myself, because my wife drives a 2.5i Outback. Turning that thing into a sleeper is not entirely out of the realm of possibility.

Based on what I'm seeing on here, you should be saving for another car, perhaps a WRX. Keep the 2.5i stock and happy, stick it out for another couple years, save up the difference and jump into a turbo Subaru. Nobody wants to hear the obvious advice.

May want to do a couple back to back drain and fills so that you get as much fresh fluid in there. Total capacity is about 10 quarts and you can only get 4-5 out at one time, most is trapped in the converter. Or just go do a proper flush, costs about $100. Valvoline synthetic fluid is Subaru ATF-HP compatible, so find a good Valvoline place you trust and let them do it. OR source your own fluid and find a local trans shop with a fluid exchange machine on site. Makes more sense than crawling around the car at least 3 times to do it right.

Holy moly. Any context? How was the car driven and maintained? What power levels, etc? In other words what conditions led to this outcome?

VERY nice! Thank you for sharing! Great work.

Very nice! The clutches can last a very very long time if the transmission is maintained. Change the fluid frequently, don't let it drop too low, don't drive like an asshole everywhere, and help it out with an trans cooler if the conditions call for it. Should serve a long time. I'm at 125K miles on mine, car hasn't been stock since around 40K miles. I'm not an asshole and I maintain it best I can.

Anything that says is compatible with Subaru ATF-HP spec.

Yeah, same here. I've been running Amsoil fo 35K miles and like you, some shifts feel longer than with the OEM fluid, can't explain why. As far as fluids, I don't think we're that hung up on the ATF-HP stuff anymore. We know that the Amsoil and Valvoline synthetic fluids are good and work just fine. Probably others out there too. With the new lineatronic CVTs, it's the same thing. Thus far Subaru says only use the SOA CVT ATF, but some people are testing the territory with Redline and other stuff and it's been working great. I will likely go the same route. If it's listed on the bottle as being compatible, you'll be fine.

I'm with you. If it didn't require that much unbolting, I would yank mine out. Don't get me wrong, it's nice to feel what the transmission is doing and how it is shifting, but it's also not nice that you are getting NVH. It felt cool a few years ago, now I've got two kids and a much more serious job, ain't nobody got time for this NVH bullshit.

You recall right, it was much much happier sticking in lock-up mode almost the entire time. This goes well beyond my knowledge so I don't know whether or not being in open loop the entire time is bad for the car. I know it's not ideal for the environment since closed loop is basically a strategy to handle pollution better? I honestly don't remember why I did not keep closed loop disabled, I was doing it as a way to troubleshoot something else that was acting weird (oscillating cruise control).

The 5EAT uses a traditional torque converter. to see how it works. What you are describing is the difference betwee the torque converter being locked and unlocked. In your first scenario at 40 mph, the torque converter stays locked up, and acts like a manual transmission that's in gear. In your second scenario, the torque converter is unlocked. What you are seeing is normal. There is a clutch that engages and disengages based on load. Watch the video.

Blackstone Labs will even send you a free kit in the mail for you to put the fluid in. It's basically two plastic containers and some bags, plus labels.

Alternatively, it's possible they were on back-order because not many are being produced inside the dealer network due to low demand.

When I say dealers, I mean ALL dealers. Having worked auto claims in insurance, dealers were always starting arguments over the unwillingness to order quality recycled parts, always wanted brand new.

Dealers will almost always come back with a quote for a new transmission. Doesn't mean that's the only viable option. The best option is a recycled transmission (working trans from a wrecked car), with a warranty on it.

The warranty they gave you is industry standard pretty much on the part. You're right, most times it is not cost effective to swap out engine/trans with new parts. Plenty of good quality used ones backed with warranty.

Could be a solenoid going bad in the valve body

When you are in Sport or Manual mode, the line pressure is bumped up, which will make shifting stiffer. That might be the answer you are looking for. Yes, a bump may mean that the fluid needs to be changed (lost viscosity), and you don't feel it in Drive mode because it is masked by the softer downshifts.

Too little info provided, but strictly going by what you wrote, it sounds like the clutches are fried. Your only recourse is a transmission swap, or a rebuild but comparative in price it may not be cost effective, but does provide you with an opportunity to have brand new clutches in there.

No. Correct fluid at the correct level won't cause an issue. Something else happened. Why is the dealership saying the fluid doesn't appear to be CVT? You need to probe them more, we have no answers for you.