HAMMER DOWN

ya, I pop in every now & again. Just to see if someone as beaten my mileage on original motor & turbo (314k+)

I miss my LGT, when I see others on the road.

Then I nail the throttle on the 4.4l twin turbo v8:).

But I've already bought this car 2x+ times over:spin:

 

Only 12K on the complete engine rebuild.... - just not ready to sell it yet

 

Engine rebuild was after the 3rd Turbo Replacement - yeah never said I was bright:lol:

Only twice:rolleyes:

232K miles. OEM struts finally are giving up. Car is feeling very nervous over bumps and kind of "floaty" at speed. Can't complain... its amazing for original struts!

 

Putting a set of OEM take-offs with 3K miles on them on in place.

IIRC, I replace my OEM struts around 220k for the same reason.

V8 FWD Chevy Impala Malibu SS?

Unless they fix the torque steer. I rented a 2018 V6 FWD Chevy Impala. Plenty of power from the V6, no complaints. The torque steer from a passing 2 cars that was doing 45 in a 55mph was trouble. Reminded me way I don't like or own FWD vehicles.

On a side note. The Chevy Impala interior seem more cramp them my 2013 BWM 5 Series, but as a bigger trunk. Looking at the to cars side by side. The 18 Chevy Impala looks narrower and longer the the BMW.

Both my Q7 & the dealer. VW are buy back. IIRC it's been only in the last few months some of the TDI's have been fixed and released for resale.

FYI, Audi comes with a 4 yr./48000 mile warranty. In short, anything that makes the OBII engine light came on, it's covered.

Subaru is only boring to those who have preconceived notions of what performance and fun should be. The power has been bumped on the sti for the first time ever, and now comes the S209...Forester STI...

 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

S209 is estimated to be over $50k. Base STI is still under $40k, $10k+ for 35hp is not worth it IMO. Compared to other cars in that price rage. You just have to give up the M/T.

How is the Stinger? AWD or RWD?

 

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

Both, the Stinger comes in both drivetrains.

Can you only remove that banjo bolt that's behind timing cover by removing the WHOLE assembly? Can I reuse timing belt and components?

No, their's another option;

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1326330&postcount=158

Yes, you can reused timing belt & whole assy. Up to you, but it would depend on mileage of old parts & if you are doing the work or paying someone to do it. IMO, more then 60k on original parts, plus paying someone to the work. I would replace everything.

Mike

May be Mike will be here at some point. Mike do you recall whether you had STI shifter linkage on your car? The upper stay was modified, and SpecB stays I compared against your linkage were longer, so I am assuming it was OEM STI linkage.

Shifter & reverse lockout cable was from 05 sti. Both shifting linkages was extended 3/8". See link below.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1568782&postcount=145

Mike

Ok so I just put a 05 sti 6speed in my 5eat legacy wagon with a r180 rear diff, what drive shaft will work for this setup??? I was told the 5eat driveshaft would work but it’s too short from the trans to the center mounting bearing??? Someone please help!

Wrong drive shaft, you need a A/T drive shaft out of a 4EAT, not a 5EAT.

From page #1,post #1

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost...&postcount=205

From ZOrrO

Originally Posted by HAMMER DOWN

groff,

 

copied from my last post.

 

You can, from what I heard use a drive shaft out of 05 or new legacy A/T. If the A/T driveshaft overall length is between 63.50" & 63.88". It should work.

 

If your drive shaft is around this length, it should work. Hope this helps.

 

Mike

i can CONFIRM that this works. 2005 2.5i 4EAT propshaft. works great

For 05 STI 6 speed install, do I just need 05 STI stock flywheel, clutch disk and pressure plate?

Yes, that all I ever ran with that swap. 05 STi fly wheel, pressure plate, throwout bearing, clutch & pilot bearing. FYL, I avg. 100k on OEM STi clutch setup.

Mike,

 

did you end up switching to 5 speed NSS eventually? I drove the car around a little bit but not to a point of engaging cruise control. I will likely have the tranny out today/tomorrow.

Yes, the 5MT NSS is installed.

IIRC @ 75mph, RMP's was 3000

I pulled the trigger on a 2014 BMW 535d xi. Got love having power, handling & 36mpg:cool:.

But still miss the raw unrefined power & handling of the LGT with the Sti 6MT. Being about 1000lbs. heavier then the LGT & no hand brake. The BMW will defiantly not be drifting around corner like the LGT in the winter.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=265469&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1527368087 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=265470&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1527368087

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=265469&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1527368087 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=265470&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1527368087

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=265469&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1527368087 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=265470&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1527368087

Attached Thumbnails http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=265481&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1527392367 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=265482&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1527392367

Amsoil link to BMK23-EA VVVV

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/filters-and-by-pass-systems/by-pass/filters-and-mounts/universal-dual-remote-bypass-system/?code=BMK23-EA

PRODUCT DESCRIPTION

The Ea Bypass Oil Filter (EaBP) provides the best possible filtration protection against wear and oil degradation. Working in conjunction with the engine's full-flow oil filter, the AMSOIL Ea Bypass Filter operates by filtering oil on a "partial-flow" basis. It draws approximately 10 percent of the oil pump's capacity at any one time and traps the extremely small, wear-causing contaminants that full-flow filters can't remove. The AMSOIL Ea Bypass Filter typically filters all the oil in the system several times an hour, so the engine continuously receives analytically clean oil.

IIRC, oil filter thread size. 20mm x 1.5

Hope this helps.

The STi swap been putting a on my face for over 260k+

Spotted a 09 Subaru Legacy 3.0R LTD, 136k for $6,995. 1st thing I was thinking was swapping my 05 STi 6MT & matching R180 rear diff. From my total:rolleyes:, but very drivable LGT:cool:.

I now have everything that I need to complete the swap except for new bolts for the clutch/pp. however a new problem has come up - I no longer have access to the lift that I was going to use (my bro in law blew the motor in his F450 - we started pulling the cab off of it yesterday) who knows how long until it is available. Sooo - can I do this trans swap on jack stands? How high does the car need to be in order to clear the trans?

I lifted mine 24". Measured just behind the front wheels.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/100_4303.jpg

FWIW, when I was researching my swap. If it wasn't drag/race car. Most keep the stock clutch, until they was around 500ftq. The 1st things to break are the axles.

OEM clutch, IIRC is built by exedy. IMO, for a DD, stock axle & clutch would be fine. For "race abuse", axles would be the 1st thing I upgrade.

My 5MT shifter boot to work on 6MT, mod;

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1326375&postcount=76

I add my own "E" brake kill switch.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1376034&postcount=84

Sounds like you got it all.

On the axle seals for the MT, there is a Right & left hand seal.

Check part# to see if the 08 are different then 05 6MT

05 STi 6MT front half shaft seals:

Old# L\H 806735240 New# L\H 806735290

Old# R/H 806735230 New# R/H 806735300

And why'll you're there:

Tail shaft seal 806735210

Good to hear...been wondering how much longer I want to keep the wagon. It still drives well, just wonder what's going to need attention next. Still taking it to VT skiing and use it as a DD.

 

 

 

Has a little rust on the bottom of the right front door, have to keep after that so it doesn't get to bad. Also has a small rust hole behind the left rear tire, keep that treated too.

Do to time in the rust belt & some fury creatures. About 3 yrs. ago, I had a full repaint ($4k). Body panel rust was the heaviest in the DS door seams. A little less rust on the other door seams & both rear quarter.

My outlook for the next 3yrs. E-vac system above the fuel tank & filler neck, steering rack, front & rear sub frames. Motor found is still squirreled away:spin:.

Crazy to think I might be thinking of dumping $6k+ in this old girl in the next 3-5yrs. But that's only a 5th of the cost to replace it. On my short list, 2014-15 BMW 535d X-Drive). My car as been payed off sense the summer 07. Not like it owes me anything & if I do drop $6K. I only have to drive it a year to recoup my money out of it, (new car payment plus increase in car insurance).

212k miles now on my 05 LGT. 35K on the motor rebuild.

Stock turbo still... everything else is original less the normal wear/tear.

 

I think I might have the front struts going out, finally... getting some clunking at low speed over bumps. The transmission is a little whiny, but still going. Rust on both rear quarters... just behind the door.. been trying to stay on top of it.

Around the some mileage I replaced my OEM struts, 220k. The car started not holding the line on rough roads in the corners.