JohnnyT

Thanks for your detailed post. It is much appreciated. I really don't know one way or the other, this is just what I read on this forum. Personally, I wish I had a tuner in my area (Scranton/Wilkes-Barre area) that I can trust. I would love to have my tune optimized for the stock equipment. Nothing crazy, just better. Right now I'm running the stock tune. I really enjoy reading your posts. They are a real education. Take care.

Lean factory tunes, uh? I was under the impression that the factory tunes were excessively rich. The studdering issue between 2500-2750 RPMS was due to the engine loading up. Most after market tunes took care of that. At least this is what I read on this forum.

I'll second what Max said. You need the AVO reinforcement brackets. Fred Beans Parts has them for a decent price. Without them the stock brackets will bend under the strain of the stiffer sway bar.

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First of all, I enjoy your thread very much. It's the go-to place for repair. Thank you for all the time and effort in giving our community the walk-through thread. I do want to mention that the hood scoop is functional, not only to direct air to the TMIC, but also it directs air over the turbo heatshield. I would consider airflow over the turbo when thinking about a hood that doesn't have a hood scoop.

I really like the yellow painted donors. I wish I got mine painted before msprank assebled mine, but I really don't see them anyway. Nice job.

Thanks for all the input. Much appreciated. This is my DD and I won't be tracking it. I want more HP and low end torque for the street and highway just to make it a little more fun to drive. First, I'll see how healthy the VF40 is and then gort from there. If it's healthy, I'll get a mild tune to 16 psi and see how I like it. If it's not healthy I was think of the following: BNR 16G or 18G, IP Oil line kit, AVO TMIC, Grimspeed or Invidia up and downpipe, Fuel pump, Have it tuned to 20 psi. The tuner does a road tune or can have it dyno tuned. The road tune is $250, so I'll start with that. I don't know if I'll need injectors with that tune though. It seems that most people replace their injectors. I'm not interested in going with the FMIC. I'll have to ask the tuner which 20G he has for sale. Any other comments would be appreciated. Thanks.

Acumenhokie, Thanks for your reply. I agree, but all this will be depending on the health of my original VF40. If it looks good with no shaft play, I'll go with a modest tune, uppipe and downpipe.

A local tuner is offering me a slightly used, like new, 20G for $500. The other alternative he offered was a new FP 68HTA, but that's $1299. I've been reading this form for awhile now and what I got out of it was that a 20g will be laggy and a 16 or 18 G would be better for a DD. He claims a 20g is best suited for the 2.5L motors where the 16 or 18G is better for the 2.0s. Thoughts? Obviously, going with a 20G turbo means changing TMIC, and fueling. Another concern is the engine has 111K on it and I don't know if it would handle the extra HP. Right now I'm bone stock, but want a little more HP.

Love this thread too! Filled with lots if great info and photos. Keep it coming!

It's good to see you back on the forum. I love, love, loved following the 99 Legacy build under Girodisc. Just incredible! I also love this build too. I'm Looking forward to following this build too!

Thanks for your input. It sounds like the AVO TMIC would be a better choice. I don't want to go with a FMIC.

As for aftermarket TMICs, what to you folks think of the Process West TMIC? The guys at AZP recommended this one if I was to upgrade the turbo and other bits.

Subscribed. Awesome thread!

I have the Koni-Epic combo on my '06 LGT. I purchased the parts from Fred Beans Parts with Subaru Bucks and had them shipped to m sprank to assemble them when he was offering this service. At the time I knew of no one who did the insert conversion in my area, but becasue Mike's price was so reasonable I broke even inspite of the shipping costs to the west coast. I had them installed in May of 2011 by a local speed shop and to date, and almost 20K miles late,r I have not had one squeak from them. I've developed some rattles in my dashboard because of the stiffer ride and horrendous roads around here in the NE, but no squeaks. I have the Konis set half way between full firm and full soft. This combo is great and mated with Cobb sways and Katboy solid endlinks, the handling is nothing short of amazing. Very happy overall.

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I have the Koni/Epic combo and I used the LGT tophats. They fit perfect.

Yea, this is just a street car. I may be interested, just for grins, if Fred Beans parts carrys them so I can pay with Subaru Bucks. Thanks for all your input. I really just want to make sure I don't wear out my new tires prematurely.

^^ Thanks for your reply cypher. Which adjustable lower links do you have? I've seen Megan Racing adjsutable control arms for $206.00. Is it worrh it?

I have the Koni-Epic Engineering combo and I love it. I have the Konis set at the mid point between firm and soft. The ride is rough when the roads are bad, which is most of them here in NE PA. For those of you that have the same setup as me, what camber are you running in the front and does anyone use a camber kit for the rear. I'm running -1 degree in the front and the rear is -.5 and -1.5, left to right respectively (not adjustable). I had the alignment done at the local Subaru dealer. I wonder if their machine is off because when I first got them put on the rear camber was dead even at -1.1 and -1.0. What do you guys/gals think? The frame isn't tweaked at all. The mechanic said toe has alot to do with it and my toe was way out. Dam potholes.

Thanks Mike. I'll relay the info to him. I think he has an alignment guy back in the Allentown area. I know he uses a little negative camber for better turn-in. I have -.5 degrees on my koni-epic setup and it works well. Shouldn't one let the springs settle for a couple hundred miles before getting an alignment? I've read that even though they've been on the car they still need to settle if you take them off the car again. Truth or fiction? Thanks for your time in responding to my inquires.

So $295 includes taking your preassembled Koni struts in your core strut housing, installing his Cobb springs and assembling w/tophats, etc., and using his Koni rear shocks, assembling with his Cobb springs and installing the assembled Koni/Cobb spring setup into his car? He would hand over his new Koni front strut inserts and his cores. Do I have it right? Please explain. I just want to understand what $295 includes. Again, he's not using a Koni/Epic setup. You would need to disassemble his cores and assemble the Konis with his Cobb Springs. Thank you for your patients.

I used Mike's service back in April. In my case I shipped my Konis and Epics to Mike from Fred Beans Parts because I paid with Subie Bucks. Mike assembled them and shipped them to me, then I had a located speed shop install them. I shipped the cores back to Mike. Shipping cost almost $235, but becasue Mike's assembly charge was so reasonable it worked out less expensive than the locate SS doing the whole thing. Overall it was a great experience. I had to wait a little longer because of the shipping from East coast to West coast and back, but I got to know Mike a little better through PMs. It was well worth it. The car handles great and it still puts a grin on my face when I take the curveys. Thank you MIke for a job well done. Come on people, get those cores back to Mike. YOU KNOW WHO YOU ARE. I have a question for Mike of AZP. My son has an '08 LGT with OEM struts/shocks with Cobb springs. What would it cost him to get into the Konis with his Cobbs installed? You would have cores coming back to you since you'd have his car at your shop. Please let me know since he'll be ready in the next several weeks. He lives in Allentown, PA, so he could go to your shop on a Saturday. Thanks.

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I thought I was on this list, but I 'm not there, so her it is. JohnnyT Eynon, PA 2006 LGT-Limited Sedan Brillant Silver Metallic