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SilentJ20

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Everything posted by SilentJ20

  1. As I understand it, the tank is a saddle-type (fits over/on top of the driveshaft) and as such there are two fuel-level floats in the tank--one on either side. The 42081AG03A has a float and a low-pressure pump to push to the other half of the saddle once fuel gets low enough. The main fuel pump and float sensor is 42021AG04B, and costs significantly more (someone please correct my info if it's incorrect). One or both of the units may be causing the problem. I'm in a similar boat. My gauge only goes to 1/4 tank when full, then goes down slowly. The units will have different resistance ranges, so once I dig enough to figure it all out I should be able to test them. Never mind, I see the parts you listed cover both level sensors. But, because of this thread, I JUST learned the 42081AG03A can be purchased without the fuel pump assembly.
  2. Two recent things: A few days ago, I 3d printed a quick & dirty phone holder. PETG filament for heat resistance. Even though I have an Android Auto head unit it can still be very handy to have view of the phone and have quick access to it. These cars have nonexistent cubby/storage for misc items. This is out of the way of hvac controls, barely blocks the vent and not affected by the passenger leg-space. Then today I replaced my disintegrating leather shift knob with a cheap SSCO delrin knob from ebay. A little larger, but I love the feel of delrin. It has decent weight (I prefer lighter shift knobs) and won't feel scalding hot in the summer, nor uncomfortably cold in winter. No shift pattern, though...
  3. Two big things (for me) I got done over the weekend: Finished my backup camera install. I wired it into the OEM nav screen (using THIS guide) so as to leave the stereo unaffected. Image quality isn't the greatest in the world, but it's definitely better than having no camera. The other, possibly controversial thing is I installed a subwoofer that required some 'modification' of the rear seat pass-through hatch. Please don't crucify me, haha. I tried a sub in a box in the trunk, didn't sound as good as the Infinite Baffle type installation I had in my previous car (2007 Saab 9-3, RIP). The sub and amp are installed on a removable board, it takes up minimal trunk space and it sounds very clean and strong with less wattage and doesn't rattle the car apart while enjoying it. I've been missing clean, deep bass for some time. I still need to complete the install (finish wood assembly and hide the new hole with grill fabric). I usually stay away from any mod that is not completely reversible, but I broke my rule this time. Worth it.
  4. I gave it a very quick early winter bath. Not to my usual standard, but the wet roads were being unkind the past few weeks.
  5. Hopefully an appropriate post, I'm still new here. Shortly after obtaining my spec.B, I noticed how limited the interior storage/trays/cubbies are when you have a nav screen. I frequently use the cup holders, and often find myself without a place to set my phone, sunglasses, small things during a drive. The glove box is inconvenient for quick access and the center console can't be a store-all for everything else. So, I need ideas for things that don't make the car look trashy. What do you all do? Dashboard tray? Sunglasses clip? 3d printed pockets? Magnets?
  6. The flasher unit is a bit spendy, but it dramatically simplifies everything else. On my prev daily, 2007 Saab 9-3, changing any exterior light to an LED would be a nightmare (some combo of resistors & mechanical relays to satisfy CANBUS and the built-in filament health sensors). So, when I saw how easy this flasher made it for this car, I impulse-purchased. Also, shop around. Most places sell it for $90, but I found it for $60 eventually. You could probably find a LED-friendly non-smart flasher for less, but I love having the tap signal. The LED thing was part safety, part aesthetics and part reliability. The range of LEDs is crazy, though. Morimoto and Diode Dynamics make some top tier stuff, and there's TONS of cheap no-name stuff. Lasfit seems to find a happy medium. Not had any problems with them yet.
  7. Installed Moog swaybar end links. While in there I noticed the LCA bushings are on their way out. But even so, driving around with only the links replaced really quieted it down. Also installed the Diode Dynamics SmartTap flasher unit. So happy to have the tap-then-4-flashes for lane changes. Then installed some Lasfit LED blinker and brake light units. The bulbs were starting to dim and needed replacing anyways. I know these cars don't last forever, but I'll keep taking care of mine (130k miles) as long as I can.
  8. There are two main types of this stuff. There is the 'Dip' material. It's basically colored Plasti-Dip. Easy to spray and remove when done correctly, affordable, but less permanent. It's also relatively soft. The other material I've heard of is a harder Liquid Wrap. It costs more, application is similar, but the neat thing to me, is the gloss can actually be cut & polished like paint. Dip doesn't have as many glossy options and unless the formula has changed, it won't take a polish. What you see is what you get. You could perhaps add more layers to even out the finish if it gets super scuffed, but defects will show though to an extent. The Liquid Wrap is basically a vinyl wrap and more durable.
  9. This is what I used: USB I was probably looking at one that had a passthrough for the heat unit asking with a charge-only usb-c, but it was out of stock. I had to use the small plastic ring from the original cig lighter, and I had to cut & flip out the rubber tabs on the USB adapter to make it stay. It's not perfect and I'm not sure that's where I'll keep it (can't close the flap and that bugs me haha). Nothing of the car was cut out damaged though, so I can go back to original pretty easy
  10. Still loving my new-to-me Spec B, but I couldn't stand not being able to mod anything with the audio. The factory head unit wasn't terrible, but it significantly limited any aftermarket changes. So, I sprung for the AVO-JDM Double Din kit with an Android Auto head unit. Snuck the USB port into the cig lighter hole. Wired everything I could while it was on the bench. Plugged everything in and everything worked first try. Perfect starting point for better speakers, a sub, and whatever else.
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