SilentJ20

Alright, now that the forum is working again, here's the LV: Two items of note. I've been running a new MAF for a couple weeks now, and I replaced the AF sensor (upstream O2 sensor) a few days ago, but have not reset the ecu since the O2 sensor. IAM and Knock Learning are still perfect--which I'm happy for after the intake issues. Why do you say that about my clutch? I don't doubt you, it's still the original I assume, so I know it's time is limited at the 135k miles I have. I just want to know what you saw that made you notice.

Update: IAM is still at 1.0 and I have no learned knock correction, so that's awesome. Downside is the fuel correction for the lower airflow ranges is creeping back up over 10%. Also, I've noticed some significant hesitation/stuttering/pulsing of the power in certain situations. If I do a 3rd gear pull and just plant the throttle at 2500rpm and hold it, it's smooth power delivery. But if I run through the gears with some good throttle into it (over 50%), getting back on the gas after shifting into 2nd or 3rd I really get some strange uneven power delivery for a second or two. No codes. Sounds like the 2800-3000 rpm stumble stuff I've been reading about, but it's not limited to that particular rpm area. Captured a log to see some of the data. I was concerned that maybe the pedal or throttle body position wasn't being read right, but it seems to be tracking. One thing that caught my eye was how the fuel correction is jumping all over after a shift. If any of you gets a chance to check the attached file and have any insight I'd appreciate it. excel log file: light blue is areas of full throttle acceleration (except first gear, that was more like 75% and varies a bit) darker blue in the box shows jumping A/F correction in an area of otherwise steady throttle, steady airflow. romraiderlog_20230314_104452_stumbling.xlsx

That's what they're called! Yeah, I'll probably see about those. The struts still seem fine, and it's not a super annoying noise, but it's one of the few things that's making my car feel old. I mean, it's 15 years old, but I don't need it to remind me all the time, haha.

Replaced my front swaybar bushings as I had a clunk and they were looking a little shredded. Pretty simple job and new ones (Energy Suspension 21mm) went in just fine. But I still have the clunk. Also put in a new upstream O2 sensor. Or, as my Subaru mechanic buddy informed me, it's actually referred to as the "FA sensor" in the shop as it's primary purpose is to measure the after-combustion fuel-air evidence. Makes sense. Noticed a wonky slow/over-correcting FA correction and O2 sensor readings in a log in trying to figure out why my Learning 1 mixes were high (not scary high like before, but higher than it should be after a long-term learning), along with a uneven/'bouncy' power after shifting when giving it beans. Seems like it drives smoother now, I'll let it settle and do another LearningView and tests to see if it worked. Also new headlight assemblies coming in (nothing fancy). Originals are starting to yellow/haze from the inside.

Replaced the COBB SF intake with the factory intake. Turns out whatever previous owner that installed the COBB never tuned the ECU to account for it. Never had a CEL or any trouble codes, but the Learningview showed I was essentially in a sort of limp mode, with massive fuel trims and heavy timing adjustments to fight knock. After the factory intake went on (after having to buy one on ebay), reset the ECU and the car is totally different. More power, no weird uneven power delivery, and the Learningview is a picture of health that can't be better. SO nice to have a happy car again.

I've always heard with my Saab, too, is that with a turbo it's not that big a deal. Light restriction isn't a big deal for a turbo.

Update: I think the major issue has been resolved. Thanks to some quick ebay shipping I got my new-to-me OEM intake in a few days, installed it, reset the ECU and then went for a fairly thorough drive. Here's the new LearningView: IAM is back to 1.0, all knock-correction reads zero. I've only went for a 30 min drive and tried to cover the basic driving conditions, but this seems to be a good sign. I'll check it again after a week of commuting. Only question I have now is the minor adjustments needed to fuel at idle and WOT. Is that couple percent anything to be concerned about? What I've learned so far tells me no. Just nice to have the power back and a happy motor. Thanks for all the wisdom imparted on this journey. I'm sure it won't be the last.

Update: The local Subaru experts at PIA identified the root of the problem. Apparently, despite my COBB intake requiring the installation of a tune (per installation instructions), I am still on the stock tune. This throws off the MAF/injector scaling significantly. The ECU can just barely compensate, so no CEL (even though I feel there should be one). They have a history and a good reputation and have seen it all. I'm inclined to believe their expertise, haha. Solutions are either install an OEM intake or get it tuned. PIA is a COBB authorized shop and they only tune using the Accessport--which I do not have nor do I want to purchase at this time. Nor do I want to tuner-shop and do logs and all that in the short term. For the sake of simplicity and speed, I decided on the OEM intake. It will arrive this weekend. All other sensors tested fine, the MAF was permanently-dirty (despite my numerous cleaning attempts) so I have ordered a OEM Denso replacement. The plan is to possibly do a tune later, opensource style, once I learn about and enjoy the car in stock form. I understand the stock tune is a bit on the lean side and not ideal for long-term. But I also know what I have going on now is worse. NOW, once I install the intake, reset the ecu, install the new MAF and get a new LearningView, we'll have a better idea if I made the right choice, haha. To be continued... Oh, and PIA didn't charge me for the diagnostics. So assuming they diagnosed it correctly, I'll recommend them.

So if this hose were leaking, it would create the opposite condition that my ECU is trying to correct. Damn. Thought I might have been on to something.

The kit I borrowed from a buddy is rated at a minimum of 7 psi. However, as it has no gauge built in (lower end model), I am unsure of the actual pressure reached. There is no aux way to add pressure in this setup, and at this time I do not have the necessary fittings to test beyond this tool.

One interesting find, when I removed the intercooler, the hose clamp on the outlet side (non-turbo side) wasn't even tight. I mean, it wasn't loose and flopping there, but it had no real load when I loosened it. Looks like there has been a bit of oil mist coating the engine under there. Not a lot, but if it's been loose for a while it could gradually seep out and coat things (I've read some oil in the intercooler and such lines is normal. I have no puddles, just coating). But, that being the pressurized side, air would be escaping after the MAF at boost. Meaning the regular amount of fuel would make it run rich. It must have sealed enough for the pressure of the smoke test to not not leak out there. OR, that was a small leak I didn't see. I know engine operating pressures are much different than the little smoke pump can put out. Could that be my issue? The knock sensor seemed tight, oriented correctly--or pretty close, I didn't bust out the protractor.

Update: Leak/smoke test successfully completed and showed nothing. There is a chance there may have been something so small it was barely emitting anything, but something that small likely isn't creating the drastic changes in the ECU. Unable to get to the knock sensor yet, but I'll see what I can find. I still have the appt to get it into a shop on Tuesday.

Don't worry, the last thing I want to do is start entering random numbers into my ecu tune. That will undoubtedly cause more issues. By LWFW, do you mean lightweight flywheel? Just getting my acronym straight. There is a clunk in the suspension (swaybar bushings I believe) that I will be fixing soon. Is the knock sensor accessible? I tried google-searching before and, while I know what it looks like, it sounds like it's under the intercooler? Not to bash subaru, but the fact that it's possible for loose suspension components to cause engine issues has me perplexed. I understand why you mention it, but just odd.

Looks like mine's in the ballpark, so at least at idle it's not so far out of whack to explain there is so much fuel being added. The difference in areas is about 14% from the 65mm and 70mm intake tubes (assuming those are accurate). And I'm not off that much on a purely MAF reading. I'm borrowing a leak test setup from a buddy today, so I hope to be able to give that a go in a couple days and see if it brings anything to light. I do have an appointment at a very reputable Subaru shop (PIA, Pacific Import Auto) on the 28th for diagnostics/investigation if I don't figure things out before that.

Did another idle log with the MAF values added, and some other stuff (more rows on full spreadsheet): NOTE: this is on the same spreadsheet link as above on the 'Idle_MAF' tab at the bottom Also, noticed when I connect my ECU to RR, I have no Front O2 sensor option. May have been deleted. Going to look into that next. Also, is there any way to make RR save parameter lists between uses? I can't seem to make it stick... Still learning. Thanks for all the discussion so far, one thing about forums I like is the community experience and knowledge base.

Got a basic idle log done (I think): Spreadsheet My first log, ever. So it may not have all the relevant parameters. I didn't run it very long, but the car was at a steady state of idle. The fact that IAM reads 0.0000 makes me think maybe the knock detection isn't being correctly captured. And chance a tune moved the ID to another location? Should I try an ECU reset to see if it starts at optimal and then backs down? Should I keep this discussion here, or would it be best to move it to a more relevant section?

I'll be getting an idle log soon, but I want to clarify one thing. This car has an aftermarket COBB intake, THIS ONE. IF whoever installed it did not get the ECU tuned as per COBBs instruction (because the MAF readins need to be recalibrated), is it possible this is a major player in my problems. Reason I'm asking, I can replace MAF, O2 and lots of other things, but if the intake doesn't work with the tune, then I'm chasing the wrong symptoms. Is there any way to ID what kind of tune I have? Idle log coming soon. I hope...

Western Washington. There's a good shop nearby, PIA, that I'll try to get it into soon. Usually I'm a diy guy. But if this ends up needing professional help I understand.

Installed LearningView and took a screenshot of what the ECU has been dealing with. My IAM is hosed, some knock-detected at high load/rpms, and my trims are all over the place. I'm struggling getting RomRaider installed to get better logs, but I have some suspicions. These are indications of running lean, correct? Is this something that could be caused by a previous owner installing an aftermarket intake (COBB) and not getting a tune done? I know that messes with the MAF accuracy.

This makes sense. It does kind of resemble behavior o my previous daily when my sister-in-law filled it with Reg instead of Premium. I've suspected (and later confirmed) that my engine had a tune due to the COBB intake. But, I have no AccessPort or any other indication as to the type/maker of the tune. I guess my next step is to try and get Rom Raider up and running, learn about Learning View and get logging.

Not sure where to start investigating this. As per the title, is that due to anything troubling? I'd expect as the ECU re-learns it would change some. But the first time I did electrical work and disconnected the battery, then reconnected and drove it was a serious difference. The ol' butt-dyno was pushed back in the seat much harder. 18mpg around town (not too far out of expected). Then, as time goes on, the power faded over the course of a couple days. No CEL. Also, at WOT the power 'stutters' a little bit, like it's trying to figure out how much power to make. And occasionally stumbles hard at engine free-spinning back to idle (almost dies). I've heard some or all of these could be due to intake plenum seals (during warm-up they may let in un-metered air at various temps), or the forward O2 sensor, or the throttle body TPS... Searching the forum regularly or with google didn't really help with the battery reconnect power boost thing. Not sure if I have one problem or many. Car drives fine for the most part. Any thoughts?

Thanks! The phone mount attaches to the faceplate using 3M Velcro Command Strips. It holds strong and will be completely removable.

Did a few things recently (not all today, sorry). FIRST, I replaced the driver side fuel level sending unit. FINALLY my gauge reads correctly. I've been tracking the odo and filling at 200 miles just to be cautious. SECOND, I modified my phone mount to make it more user friendly. I can just plop it in and the USB connects, then pull it out when done. And since the holder now has a magnetic attachment I can hold the phone in my hand and still keep the USB connected. Finally, I added a spoiler to my spoiler so I can downforce while I downforce. Stays on at highway speeds and everything. Started as a joke with a buddy, but I think I'll leave it on a while.

Wait, that last sentence makes me think I messed something up. Does the regular AVO JDM kit break rear defroster? Or am I misreading that? It's probably something else, but my defroster doesn't work, lol. EDIT: The light comes on and I can hear a relay click, though. Makes me think my issue is elsewhere.

In regular use I guess I don't have too many complaints about shortage in storage. I 3d printed a phone holder solution, and most other things just stay in my pocket or on my head. I guess I was comparing it to other cars I've owned and noticed there was a lack of cubbies. In honestly, though, the more little nooks and crannies there are, the more cluttered a car can get. I like the look of this Euro console. Looks way more 'integrated' to the car. What's the box hanging off the back, though? After doing a bit of searching, though, it doesn't seem to be that easy to source parts for. How long did it take you?