pillboy

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Some people's kids...

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I'm now having issues with the satellite illumination coming and going. I attribute it to using blue wire taps...I should have used red which are designed for smaller gauge wire (car's harness).

Relevance...

Part way through I had to look to see who the OP was...I thought I must be reading a godwhomismike post.

Thanks TRS for not screwing up "302". Now on the other hand...

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Posting large images pwns me...

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No pens, french fries or used condoms...

Well, that was short and sweet. The 20 click worked for me in the past, but I had my battery disconnected and I'll be damned if I could get it to work again. This worked great. However there was a real tangle of wires under my seat as the dealer had to replace the seat heater last winter. Did a horrible job getting everything squared away back under the seat. I might have to spend some time on my head cussin' because I can't stand it when stuff is out of place. Thanks Magic.

It is now working. There was a wire tap that did not cut all the way through the insulation on one wire at the connector at the steering column. Pulled off the wire tap, carefully scraped at the insulation where the tap was trying to pierce the insulation and put it back together. I need a new volt-ohm meter with slimmer probes. My old Radio Shack one couldn't reach into the wiring harness connectors when I was trying to check the continuity of my jumper wires from behind the radio to under the steering column. I was able to determine that the first wire tap I looked at was not making contact with the car harness and prayed the other three (related to the function buttons) were good to go. They were. I have to agree with rlax31 on a couple things and have some more to add: Completely remove both of the dash panels under the steering column. I also removed the bottom panel on the colum itself. This makes it SO much easier to work under there. When attaching the wire tap to the white wire on the column side (the female half) of the B68 connector, undo the harness stay from the metal plate (you can reach and squeeze it from the back side with a needle nose pliers) and it will be much easier to work on. Also unplug the yellow air bag connector to gain more room too. Use a Sharpie to mark the steering wheel shaft and the metal part of the wheel itself so you can line it up when putting the steering wheel back on. Before you disconnect the battery make sure and place the automatic shift selector in "Drive" so you can get the radio out. I think most people use the wire taps in the upper left picture which pierce both wires at the same time. I crimped insulated spade lugs on the ends of my stranded, 16 gauge jumper wires (the bottom picture) so that they would plug into the style of wire tap you see in the upper right picture (only they were blue rather than red). This makes it easier for me to undo the whole wiring mod and return it to shift button functionality if I ( or the next owner) desire. I also dabbed "liquid electrical tape" on the cut ends of the car's harness, just in case. The blue colored wire taps are supposed to be suitable for 14 to 18 gauge wire and I believe the red connectors are for 14 to 22 gauge wire. I probably would not have had connectivity issues if I had use red connectors on the car wiring as it appears to be 18 or 20 gauge. My thanks to Trabbic for the write-up and everyone else who contributed to this thread.

Bah. Spent my Sunday afternoon doing this (took my time, quadruple checked everything, printed out wiring diagrams, read this thread so many times I have it memorized, etc) and I have illumination in the radio satellites, but no functionality. I am so pissed. I don't want to look at the effin car right now, so I guess I will spend Labor Day trying to figure out what went wrong...has to be a bad connection as the wiring hookup is correct. Auto trans by the way. I am tired of scratching up my hands unplugging the radio harnesses (I don't know what you guys with large hands do). The way they have the wiring harness under the steering column is so effed up. I had my doubts before I started, just sell the satellite controls and forget about it and save myself some aggravation. Sigh. I'm going to bed.

I'm already done...hood, leading edge of fenders, mirrors, indents under the door handles, top of rear bumper by the trunk, headlights and fog lights...$502.14. Autovisions in Eden Prairie (I've had 3 cars done there). Todd does great work. Mine was the first current gen Legacy he had done and he said it was not the easiest job. Susan at Auto Images (a mobile shop that at the time also worked out of B&K Auto Trim in Roseville) did my Camry and the workmanship was not nearly as good as Autovisions. My $0.02.

Brady ain't even gone yet...and I may have found a replacement for him. I "stalked" a Diamond Gray '07 on my way home from work tonight and followed him into a parking lot. He's had the car for 4 months and commented on how few he sees (has seen a GRP and OBP...Brady I'm sure and Kimmi or Bikerboy I presume). I mentioned the site and told him to check it out. Hope he shows up...seemed interested.

Sorry I am so late in thanking Mr. T for the ride...I was busy today washing my undapants. All those pulls to 60 mph* in perfect weather* on a deserted stretch of private roadway* were too much for this old man. Twisted...you said you wished you were in the front seat...so did I. T, nice job on the car...it is awesome. It was nice to see those who showed up...more of you need to make it next tme. Brady, look us up when you come back to town and we'll get together. *accuracy not guaranteed, but that's what I'm going with

and This ought to be interesting.

Hope it's a houseboat...supposed to rain tomorrow.

I'm in (unless something unsuspected blows up). My Saturday night plans usually involve a Home Depot or Lowe's, so this will be a nice prelude.