pillboy

Good job dude. I really had my doubts at the beginning.

My understanding is that the satellite controls vary the resistance being sent to the radio. I have a hard time understanding how they could be damaged if the voltage wasn't stepped up. I am by no means an expert in aftermarket audio...the last aftermarket system I installed was a cassette deck. What did you use to tap into the factory wiring harness? I used these (see pic). The first time around I used blue ones and I should have used red. Red is for a smaller gauge wire size. The blue ones are for a larger size wire. I had an intermittent connection in my illumination circuit. A couple weeks ago I took the lower dash apart and replaced the blue taps with red and my lights on the satellite controls now work all the time. I am sorry, but I don't even know what a PAC is, much less how it works or how to test some of these components.

Did you clip any wires on the car side of the B68 connector? I would assume you would have to, to separate the signals from the satellite switches from using the wire path that the auto trans shift buttons would normally use. I had to do this when I swapped out my shift buttons for radio controls. Those wires go to the shift lever and the body integrated unit. The circuitry for the shift function would not be energized when the ignition is in the accessory position, but would be once the car is started.

If I am reading the wiring diagram correctly, the wires from the satellite switches (pods) are: V (purple) pin 2 illumination BW (black with white stripe) pin 8 illumination OrW (orange with white stripe) pin 6 radio control VW (purple with white stripe) pin 7 radio control If you need wiring schematics, PM me with your e-mail address and I can send them to you.

Phillip- I dug out my old notes, and on connector B68, pins 2 and 8 are for illumination. Pins 6 and 7 are to control the radio functions. I don't know if that helps or not. Mark

That's where it's gonna get tricky. I suggest you spend some quality time with the thread mentioned in goneskiian's post in this thread. It will show you the identity of the wires that run from the steering wheel to the instrument panel wiring harness. In the wiring modification for these switches to work with the OEM radio, there are only 4 wires involved...and two of them make the connections for the illumination of the switches. If I remember correctly, I think I read somewhere in that thread that all of the functions of those six switches are carried out by the other two wires. It is NOT a simple set of wires for each switch. I can't explain it, but it made some sense to me when I read it a couple years ago in that thread. Good luck.

Those are the ones.

I got mine at subaruparts.com (aka Tacoma Subaru Nissan on the invoice) for $88.93 plus shipping (this was in July of 2007). Part number is 83153AG000 (switch satellite), list price on the invoice was listed as $116.93.

Phillip- You can change out the steering wheel controls but unless you are an electrical engineering wiz, I seriously doubt you will be able to control anything aftermarket through the OEM controls and wiring harness. It is NOT plug and play for those of us that have changed out the transmission controls to radio controls and kept the OEM radio. We had to modify the wiring harness of the car.

Nevermind.

I am not sure from your original post...is there power at the wiring harness that plugs into the pump or not? You said that the pump runs when you hook power up to it. Maybe the lines are plugged and the pump is indeed running?

I don't see a relay in the wiring diagram.

I am so glad I am old and can't hear sh!t. Even when I was young I don't think I was quite this insane.

I use Mobil 1 and Cingular.

No Sebs, YOU get to do this whenever you run across a DLR disabled car driving around after official sunset, or during fog or precipitation without their headlights on. And THIS is most definitely NOT true.

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So...at what point are we reduced to posting only pages out of a book?

Out '02 4EAT has it and I will bet Seb's life on it that our '97 4EAT had it too. Every Jap car I ever remember being in has had it that I can remember. Oh well, I'm old and almost senile.

There is probably a little access hole by the shifter, covered with a little plastic cover (about 1/2" X 3/4" or a little smaller) you need to pry out with a small screwdriver. The owner's manual covers this. It allows you to drive the car for service when the interlock fails.

Out of practice or stupid...take your pick.

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You guys bore easily...

%*$

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