RumblyXT

I was excited to have successfully depinned and installed two new connector for my first time ever. Took my time being careful installing one pin at a time.. though I'm not sure what the iWire small black O-ring included with the Spark Plug connector is for. The old plug broken connector didn't have it.

Next, I'll work on depinning the three connectors that broke off when I was removing the wiring harness.. Thank goodness for iWire and their great parts. And once the other vacuum lines arrive, everything should go back together.

Hey all, it's been a while, been pretty busy with family/work. Here's an update of the work I've done so far. Cleaned the TGVs.. Bought some newer fuel lines.. Wrapped the fuel lines as they were before.. Also got some newer injectors and all new O-rings for them.. Cleaned both sides of the T/B.. Got some new vacuum lines.. and a few more on the way..

It's true, they're asking for way too much. iwireusa is definitely the place to get them from.

Baseline method should lube enough lol just wanted to make sure it was safe to use in fuel lines. Thanks

Ha ha ha Man, that s*^* didn't work

Thanks Max Capacity. I wasn't sure what to use, didn't want to use something that could affect the injectors.

Is there any oil/lubricant that can be safely used to install the fuel line hoses to the steel lines? I never expected those two small fuel hoses to be so difficult to push on all the way in.. Is something like a very small amount of white lithium grease safe to use inside fuel lines? Just enough to push them in where they belong..

The plastic PCV pipe is full of gunk. I could buy a new one, but I think several passes of a boresnake dipped in kerosene would work great to clean it thoroughly.

I would have taken the pics a bit further away, but I'm sure the pics don't do it justice. Sick engine bay and great looking car!

I was wondering if the ground white connector had anything to do with static electricity.. Glad to know it will be ok without it. Thanks!

Yeah I think that's why. My car came with a silicone aftermarket turbo Air Intake hose, it's made out of silicone and its ID is red in color, I don't see any brand markings on it though.. but it definitely doesn't have a port for the white connector. I thought the white connector was maybe used on newer models. Just wanted to make sure for when it's time to put things back together.

This white connector coming off one of the hoses from the PCV, where do I connect it to the big Air Intake Hose? When I was removing parts, I couldn't see where it came off from and I didn't see one installed either. Did Subaru send me the wrong PCV Assy? I'm pretty sure I ordered the correct one. Anyways, I removed it from the PVC. Is this a useless connector?

Thanks. Yes, actually I understood everything you said and it makes total sense. After I removed the I/M and got a better look of how things are routed, I realize that's probably what's happening. The coolant flow has no passage to heater core since it's clamped and/or nothing returning either, so the stagnant coolant might overheat the whole system since the water pump keeps trying to push it. I am not ready to get into the dash/heater core, I honestly don't have the time, it's too big of a project. Thankfully, in South FL, it's not such a big deal anyways. I plugged the heater core lines by the firewall and looped the in/out coolant lines, hopefully this will make things better. I made some progress and removed the fuel lines along with the TGVs as well. TGVs are super dirty, normal I guess. I ordered some fuel lines that came with used injectors, they're probably in better working condition than the 212K mile ones that were on the car with signs of rust.

^^Thanks. I removed everything from the trunk just in case. Not sure about where you guys live but Miami has become a hell hole full of thieves. Almost every day, I get Ring notifications of cars stolen/vandalized around the area.

That’s odd.. first time I see a car without an key access to the trunk. Thank you guys

I don’t see a key hole on the Outback’s trunk like my older Forester had. While I’m fixing the car and the battery is removed, is there a way to manually lock the trunk with the key??

Wow.. What a build! o_O

Finished working on the 2WD 4Runner rear brakes today, replaced the wheel cylinders and brake fluid as well. Not a difficult job, just time consuming making sure everything turned out ok. Time to start working on Rumbly now

I broke a few connectors on the wiring harness. Not sure if it's been posted before but found a company that seems to have just about any connector for the car. In case anybody else needs it: https://connectorexperts.com/ag-1859248-subaru.html

Finally gathered the courage to remove the I/M and Wiring Harness. Took me a while to figure how it was attached on the bottom. There's some oil/dirt on top by PCV Valve (to be replaced), rust on fuel lines and water pipes. All crank case hoses are hard and brittle, not worth using again, planning on replacing all of them too. Was happy to find that the front turbo prop barely had any play and no oil around it. Got lots of work to do.. Great pliers! Very helpful for pulling hoses and switches in tight places

Yeah, I guess you guys are right. Maybe it's just me trying to look for the easy way out to work on that tight space. But it's like Infosecdad said, the right tool for the job.. Your reference to post #832 came just in time as I accidentally broke the brittle #3 lock tab when trying to remove it. Thanks And thanks to Scooby2.5 for the info! I can't recall exactly which one, but there's another connector in the wiring harness that also broke, wondering if the same solution from Outfront Motorsposrt would apply for other connectors.. is there a link to a company that provides new connectors replacement instead of having to replace the whole engine wire harness?

Granted yes, the TMIC would need to be removed and the engine support rod (dog bone) loosened. Good point/reminder on the end of the exhaust being stretched, didn’t think of that. The inner axles joints/boots might stretch some too, but yes, it wouldn’t be more than a 2” lift at the most.

I'm not saying the motor has to be raised for this service, you guys are way more experienced and have more practice, but I myself had a very hard time getting #2 out, I'd think #4 would be even more difficult because the frame tapers towards the rear and you end up with even less clearance. All I'm saying is a simple wooden rig placed right in between the oil pan and the exhaust manifold, right onto the bottom of the block/service plugs themselves, NEVER on the oil pan. No need to remove exhaust and/or gaskets either. Something like this: The rig would be placed pushing here: Rig made out of a treated 2x4, not soft pine This would not only be helpful to service the plugs, but also making the job of sealing the cam covers a lot easier since now you'd have more space, even allowing to torque the far bottom bolts, giving you a 1"-1.5" more of clearance to work there. I am not advising anyone to do it this way. This is just my idea of how I would go about it myself.

^^Not referring to the Coil Packs, that is easy.. turn them 180 degrees and they come out I know. I'm referring to the spark plugs themselves, particularly #2 and especially #4. Just my opinion anyways. I respect everyone's way of doing it, but it doesn't take but a few minutes to raise the motor properly and working with more space before your hands end up like you have rheumatoid arthritis