RumblyXT

And that might be the best thing to do as they performed the service with the proper tools.. But what I'm trying to say is that we might have been removing those gears the wrong way all along. Company23 might have designed the wrong tool because the Intake Cam Sprockets has those 3 protrusions outside. This should really be the proper tool to remove/install the Intake Sprocket/Camshaft bolt: People just don't know their Intake Gears are damaged inside because they never took them apart after using the Company23 tool. Wrong Tool for the job: With my car having 210K miles, I'm pretty sure there might be some metal shavings inside the Gears. Why not learn to take them apart and service them ourselves? I heard Subaru says they are not a serviceable item. But how could that be given metal shavings might end up inside and even prevent the AVCS system from working properly? Notice the manual mentions the 1st tool posted above, not sure why Company23 tool came up with that tool with the 3 lobes.

I noticed on the FSM the specialty tools names required to remove the Intake & Exhaust Gears are different, not because the sprockets are different outside, but instead because the Intake gear is supposed to be removed holding the AVCS Gear from inside.. The FSM Intake gears specialty tool is 499977500. Looking at it, it does not hold the sprocket from outside (unlike the Company23 tool does which in fact may end up damaging the AVCS Gear inside). Instead, the Subaru OEM tool, locks the inside of the AVCS Gear inside by the cam, preventing it from being damaged. The guy from the YouTube video might be right after all about the Company23 tool (the one with 3 lobes) damaging the Intake gears inside. Because the Intake Sprockets are not supposed to be removed from outside, but from inside.. not sure if I'm making any sense.. The FSM calls the tool used for removing the Intake Sprocket: "Cam Sprocket Wrench" and the Exhaust Sprocket tool is called: "Camshaft Sprocket Wrench", part# 499207400. It seems they specifically wrote it this way on the FSM for a reason. If I’m analyzing this correctly, the intake sprockets are supposed to be taken apart holding the AVC Gear inside. While the Exhaust Sprockets are to be removed with the “Cam Sprocket Wrench”.. I know hundreds of Subaru owners have disassembled/rebuilt their motors already, but I’m not sure if anyone has looked at this detail since everyone seems to use the Company23 tool to remove the Intake Sprockets.. I’m curious to see what you guys think about this.

I bought the car from a mechanic who just maintained it and changed the usual maintenance parts: brakes, fluids, tires, lightbulbs, etc.. T/B was done by previous owner to him. Once I remove the motor, I will replace every T/B component, Seals, Gaskets, Grommets, etc with OEM ones. I don't want to have any Chinese bearings/pulleys on my car, especially when it comes to parts as important as T/B components. Funny you are mentioning bypassing the heater core system. After doing an oil change and replacing the coolant, I notice the car came with the inlet hose to the heater core clamped with pressure pliers, go figure. Not sure if that's somehow playing a part in it overheating. Anyways.. I think it's BS that Subaru says these AVCS Gears are not serviceable. WE should be able to do absolutely everything on these cars. Otherwise, how do dealers service the Gears? They scrap them? That wouldn't make any sense.. Thank you for your reply

Hello everyone, I am preparing things to tackle the overhaul of my ej255 motor on my '05 OBXT which has 210K miles and it is slightly overheating (unsure why yet). The temperature gauge rises past midline when driving the car hard for some time. This is my first ever Turbo Subaru. About two years ago, I rebuilt an ej251 from an N/A '01 Forester SF, which I really miss. I have an idea on the order of thing on what I need to do, but given I'm now dealing with a turbo motor and dual AVCS system, I might need your help on servicing these gears. I'm on a limited budget and these gears are not cheap. I tried getting a better history of my car, but have not been able to contact the previous owner who mildly modified the car. It has these parts installed: (AEM SRI, Down Pipe, Grimspeed ebcs, aftermarket Intercooler and Turbo to Right AVCS oil line). I searched the forum but haven't found anything in depth in regards to servicing the AVCS Gears and the FSM just mentions their function.. I want to do things right and avoid braking something. 1. Do I need to disassemble the Cam Gears to service them and replace their O-rings inside? Given my car's mileage, I'm concerned of them being contaminated with debris inside them, specially since one of them doesn't have the banjo bolt with the protrusion on the head indicating there is no filter inside. 2. What specialty tools have you guys used for them? On this YouTube video, this person bashes the Company23 tools (which have been great for me in the past), but he stated they destroy/damage the Gear's internals when removing it from the camshaft. And instead he recommends using the Subaru recommended tool. 3. Is there an O-Ring kit for the AVCS Gears? I have looked everywhere and cannot find OEM or aftermarket O-rings for them. I admit I'm a bit intimidated by the way these gears work advancing/retarding timing.. Last thing I want is bent valves and catastrophic engine failure.. Your help/comments/suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Looking great! Happy New Year!

Thanks for your input/help everyone. I’m out of town for the New Year’s. Will follow up on the heating issue once I get back. Happy New Year to you all!!

I don’t have any coolant smell, traces of it anywhere in the cabin. Maybe the inlet hose has been clamped for a while. I forgot to mention, the black carpet looks brand new for a 210K mile car. Another tell tale sign they might have worked on this issue already to get rid of the stained carpet from the coolant? How do you guys post pics directly here? Do I need a hosting website??

The subtle cracking/popping sound comes right in front and a little to the right of the driver position. I hope it is like you’re saying to replace the right side actuators. Thanks PS: why is my language in Dutch/German?? I don’t ever remember changing it..

Thanks Gary. The A/C does work wonderfully! Very very cold.. I’m hoping it’s just the heater core and maybe an actuator/s. Having rebuilt an engine before, removing the dash is much less intimidating. I just have to be very careful with all the connectors and electrical parts. Appreciate your input.

I haven’t gotten around to replacing both radiator caps yet. But neither one seems to be leaking, should I replace them anyways? I had a Subaru dealer very close by where I bought all my parts, but it went out of business. I’ll use water first to see what’s up.. Thanks for the links, quite useful!

Lift looks great! I have never seen snow like that. Will be in TN for the end of the year, I wish it’d snow that way..

Good to know. I will be ordering some OEM parts soon. Ty

Wow.. Very nice! Can’t wait to see the finished product. Subbed!

Hi everyone. My ‘05 OBXT w/210K miles, came with the inlet coolant hose to the heater core clamped with pressure pliers. This is obviously the reason why I don’t have heat. But what I’m trying to find out is why would the previous owner have clamped such hose?? Could the heater core be plugged, corroded or leaking and/or other heating component? I’m honestly concerned of unclamping the hose and ending up with coolant all over the cabin/smelling it through the vents.. What do you guys think might be the reason why they clamped the inlet hose? Would I have to remove the whole dash to get to the issue? I also hear the subtle cracking/popping sound of a door actuator in front of me and to the right when I’m driving.. Also, not sure if related but I have noticed the coolant temperature needle goes up a bit past the midline when driving the car hard for a few minutes.. Any help/suggestions is appreciated.

Thank you MaxCapacity.. Yes, I was thinking on doing that since this one falls under Tuning.

I guess to really find out what's going on with the heating issue, I'd have to remove the whole dash to be able to see if the heater core is damaged, clogged and/or leaking. I also hear the subtle cracking/popping sound of a door vent actuator right in front and a bit to the right of me when I'm driving, maybe it's also related to why they clamped the coolant inlet hose to the heater core.

Thanks for posting this, will use it when I'll overhaul mine.

^^All important question.. a mechanic friend always says to check the obvious first. Also, did you mess around with any of the fuel lines? Back with my '01 Forester, I had inverted the fuel lines and setting them in their correct pipes was all it took to start the car.. -Must check battery and alternator first -Also check the starter motor, does it go click click click and no crank? Sometimes cars after seating for a a long time, the starter motor goes bad..

Cool, I see them now

These cars on their stock suspension look pretty high from outside, but once you're driving, they feel quiet low to the ground. Can't imagine with a lowered suspension 1"-2" reducing the fender gap they must feel really really low. I'm used to my older Forester which sat a bit higher..

I want to see the pics too.. I thought it was just me at work and this freaking firewall lol btw.. what site do you guys use for hosting pics?

With those parts? Go OEM or go home!

Thank you Max Capacity, I've heard of your engine build thread, I have to check that out! I will replace both rad caps as well.. you give me hope on my 210K mile car. I did burp the system at the turbo/engine coolant filler tank with the big yellow funnel looking for bubbles coming out of the system while revving it slowly up to 2K rpm (I wanted to turn on the heater to make the process faster, but some intelligent person left a pressure clamp on the heater core line to the cabin).. I'm guessing it's probably leaking inside. The car was on jacks all 4 wheels.. I left the engine running for 15 minutes. The next day, I had to top off the reservoir tank, it was very low, but the job went great, no coolant leaks anywhere.

Just replaced the oil cooler water pipe today, it was all rusted and pitted. Also flushed the coolant as well, even opened the drain plug at the bottom of the motor. Then replaced it with Subaru 50/50 along with Water Wetter. Not sure if that might help with the slight overheating though. I have a feeling something else is going on. At least I know the car has the best coolant it’s supposed to get. Go OEM or go home!

I almost forgot, is the coolant temperature gauge supposed to go a bit above operating temperature if the car is driven a little hard for a few minutes(like stepping on the gas hard on a straight long road)? I have noticed that a few times..