RumblyXT

I forgot to mention the Right exhaust AVCS gear makes an odd sound when rotated back/forward.. almost like scraping the plastic behind it, but you can also hear a slight/subtle metal clanking sound as if something was kinda lose inside?? please see video: https://youtube.com/shorts/8bZQqtsEfVw?feature=share I mean.. either way, the exhaust AVCS gears will get replaced with the fixed 255 ones, but I was just wondering..

Hmm.. look, I didn't spray the exhaust valves.. I'm pretty sure once I do, and rotate the cam a few times, if I repeat the test, that exhaust valve that's leaking on 4 will close much better.

^^Haha.. Ok I'll rotate the gears again a few times and spray down the valves with the motor vertically so it drains all the crap out, but should I be worried with flooding the cylinder with valve cleaner?

Public now.

Here's a short video of #4 cylinder test which was really crappy yesterday if you guys remember.. Not today though https://youtube.com/shorts/VZ5Wd3kd5Zo?feature=share

USDM 2.5L vs JDM 2.0L valve clearance.. Yup.. pretty much the same. Interesting

There's only one section missing on this 2004 jdm FSM: (Mechanism & Function) which is nice to have, but I can do without..

Thanks to XT2005bonbon!

Exactly what I was thinking.. We didn’t get dual AVCS on the Legacy/Outback wagon in the states until years later. This is awesome! Now we’re talking guys! This FSM has been downloaded, locked and loaded.

That's what I thought too, but look.. It's like KZJohnny was saying, they got the cars in Japan first.. that's why the FSM is from 2004, but I think it's the same as my motor. Please correct me if I'm wrong..

Brother, I think I lucked out.. BL BP chassis code I'm not 100% sure yet, but I think it's actually the same as the 2004 service manual

Great Directory.. I had been there before.. but all 2005 2006 MY only show 2.5L turbo engines, meaning US & Canada.. However, I just looked at a previous year just now, the 2004MY and it does show the 2.0L turbo in the specs and in English! I’m just not sure if 2004 and 2005 models had the same compatible engines and if it’s actually the specs referring to this 2005 motor I have..

Left Head internals are looking mighty clean.. indicative of regular oil changes or indeed a low mileage motor.. Check out the head bolts.. they’re green!

Yes Sir..

Oh yeah, that’s the first thing I did. Set the rectangular crank sprocket mark lined up with the one on the oil pump. Gears rotate freely without valves interference.. Valve clearance is next! I cannot find the jdm FSM online for the best of me, and I’m a pretty good digger online.. The thing is I think this engine was a Subaru Liberty GT in AU. Not sure if in Japan was also called Legacy GT as in the states.

Looks like I have a good motor!! Goes to show how important it is to prep an engine that has been seating for so long before doing a leak down test in order to get more accurate results.. “accurate or precise?” Eh KZJohnny? Haha

I have excellent news! All cylinders leak down test results changed dramatically after spraying all the valves with CRC Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner, rotating the gears while spraying the valves to seat them better and oiling all 4 piston rings. All cylinders/piston rings held pressure, even number 4! It leaked some, but still held pressure. Also, all cylinders were tested holding each piston at TDC individually. The valve cleaner and oiling the rings made all the difference.. I also rotated the crank several times before the test so the oil would get dispersed all throughout the rings evenly. Very happy! Thank you for all the tips guys.

There’s no need really.. with a flashlight, you can see the piston coming towards you or away, right through the spark plug hole. What I didn’t do for the test is hold the piston being tested at TDC. My father in law noticed the flexplate rotating in the back due to the air pressure. This is why I said, I’m not 100% sure I did it correctly. I’ll repeat the test after cleaning both intake/exhaust ports and then holding each piston at TDC respectively after having squirt some oil inside the cylinders and cycling the pistons to help with a better seal/more “accurate” reading, see how it goes.. This motor was probably seating for years, could significantly have influenced previous test results.

I was wondering if I might have performed the test incorrectly.. The amount of air whooshing/leaking from #4 sounded more than bad/old piston rings (would leak slower), the air rushing out was more like ring land failure.. even though supposedly these motors are not known for that, due to having stronger pistons and they already come from factory with the so called cylinder 4 cooling mod.. but I guess it's possible on all these EJs.

Ok I see.. that's some relief. I thought this was a clear indication this motor was totally garbage. But yeah, cylinder# 4 was the worst of all. The other ones did hold pressure though, not at 93+%, as I was expecting after putting 100psi, but they did hold pressure and then it went down slowly. Motor is totally drained of oil mind you, so.. From the test today and based on what you just stated, then it's just number 4 that looked really bad in terms of holding pressure. I will try to repeat the leak test with better conditions, knowing what I know now. We'll see..

Yeah.. the seller has great ratings (JDM Orlando), but I only had 14 days to return it.. https://youtube.com/shorts/nx_3D5xgCqw?feature=share

Lesson learned.. Trying to upload some of the leak down test videos, forum says file is too big to upload..

Good idea, I have to remove the valve covers anyway. Yes, I documented everything.. some of the air was also coming out the PCV hole.. My little compressor can reach 125 psi.. I did all tests reaching 100psi on each cylinder. I'm ready to tackle this thing with whatever comes my way: new piston rings, valve seals, etc. just hoping is not worn out cylinder walls issue. There's only one problem, I don't have the JDM FSM for guidance/clearances.. this thing is a 2.0, not a 2.5, so the measurements inside the cylinders, pistons, etc. are all obviously different from the 2.5L.

What the heck am I talking about?! Of course the cam lobes touching the valves would push the valves completely open.. This test had me stressed out today, I had high hopes for it, last thing I was expecting was to hear a loud shhhhhh.. on this "low mileage motor".. I was thinking the same today, I will try repeating the test tomorrow with these modifications: 1. I will first rotate the motor vertically and spray valve cleaner and then clean air into the intake/exhaust ports perpendicular to the floor to drain and get rid of any particles that might be in there. Then I'll rotate the gears some to open the valves and spray air into the intake/exhaust ports to dislodge any particles/debris stuck in the valve seats to get a more exact test.. Exact or precise? ha ha 2. I have some thick oil laying around see if I can spray a little inside each cylinder. Should I do this through the spark plug hole or the valves opening? Then, I'll rotate the crankshaft a few times to disperse the oil on the cylinder walls while also rotating the motor. I will then repeat the test with each piston at TDC holding it there with the 1/2" breaker bar just to be sure..

Not sure if Tehnation made a mistake by saying to do the leak down test with the belt off/ pistons on resting position. I had always seen this test performed setting each piston individually at TDC. Thinking about it now, it makes sense to do it with the belt on since the cam lobes will be pushing on/closing the valves as much as possible, giving a more trustworthy result. Obviously I cannot perform this test after the engine is hot since it's on a stand, most I can do is probably spray a little oil through the spark plugs holes to help the piston rings seal a little better with the oil. Cylinder #4 leak test was horrible, lots of air escaping, no retention whatsoever.. At this point, I can't even return the motor if it's bad, but it's my fault for not having done the leak down test as the first thing when I received the engine. Thankfully, I haven't yet removed any of the AVCS gears, I'll put the T/B back on and repeat the test again see how it goes.