jasqi

I’ll state first that last night I hit about 95 on the freeway and the car was hitting boost and running perfectly normal. This morning was pretty foggy and I warmed the car up for the 15 mins I typically do and drove conservatively for the next 5. After I hit operating temp I did a small pull, nothing crazy probably like 10-12 psi. Out of nowhere it felt like the engine power cut off or something, it felt like somebody full locked my brakes and the car almost threw my face into the steering wheel. Then it drives fine, did another small pull to make sure I wasn’t crazy and it did it again. I have literally no idea what this could be, I just finished fixing a blown out intercooler and the symptoms are nothing like what that huge vaccum leak caused me. It doesn’t present itself at low boost. Only codes are the Cat code and an EGT sensor malfunction, but I’ve been getting those for awhile and it always drove fine with them on. Any advice or ideas would be greatly appreciated. I’m hesitant to replicate the problem and blow my engine or something so I can’t really provide much more info.

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Most color changing lights will wire into an rgb controller, the controller is what you’ll wire in. Some even have auto off and stuff when you turn the car on. Another wondering is if you’d want to have the turn signals activate them.

I’ve got some hid swapped headlights I’ll be taking out, found some brand new depos for cheap and modifying those. The hid ones have fogging on the inside among some other imperfections, but might just work for what you want them for I’d be willing to let them go for cheap.

Aight sick, I surely thought it’d be cool considering the lack of a market available headlight for our cars.

Ok awesome! Thanks everyone, I’ll definitely post up what they look like once I actually begin that project. I by no means have no experience coming into this, but I think the project could be a lot of fun. I think people hear “bake headlights” and run as far away as possible; would a step by step write up be at all helpful? I think it’d be interesting coming from someone with no experience opening a headlight just yet. Headlights are going to be getting the full round of stuff, rgb demon eyes, hex hid projectors, hex halos, and painted housings.

So I’m going to be modifying a set of brand new oem headlights I got. I saw this example with gold high beam reflectors. I was wondering if anybody had any idea how this was done? High temp gold paint, aftermarket, etc.

I mean yes, but the seat has a huge rip in it.

Got a pretty undesirable hoard of parts, figured I’d post em up if anybody was remotely interested. Everything is pretty flexible, shoot me an offer and I’ll probably take it. Buyer pays shipping and fees if applicable. Local pickup or delivery in Central Oregon is also possible. eBay Headers // Lost the 2 Bolts, one of the welds has a crack in it, expect eBay quality - $80 APS Intake // Wrinkle Red, don’t know much about it, came with my car when I bought it, don’t know if it actually fits - $75 OEM Grill // 117k, the chrome is starting to peel, the driver side mounting tab snapped off a bit - $50 OEM Blown TMIC // 117k, Bought a bulletproofed one, end tank blew out which is pretty typical, may be good to slap a bulletproof kit on - $30 Stock Airbox // 117k, Has a reusable K&N Filter, comes with hose and snorkel, got a Grimmspeed CAI so I just don’t need it, also have the mounting brackets for it - $100 Slave Cylinder // Came with my Junkyard Transmission seems to work fine - $15 EWG V-Band 38mm Block off plate // Bought off eBay, didn’t use - $20 OEM Shifter // 117k, shifter that shifted, swapped it for a short throw - $20 OEM BPV // Came with used intercooler, $20 Will also have some stuff in the coming months that people may be interested in, all have roughly 120k on them, which may include: -Stock VF40, no shaft play -Stock Sidefeed Injectors -Stock Fuel Lines, TGVs, FPR, Rails -Stock Uppipe -Tan Interior -Steering Rack with Bent Arm (for rebuild)

Yeah no this wasn’t like a “oops whoopies it still drives kind of thing” It destroyed A LOT, I hadn’t had the car on insurance yet and I mechanic my own stuff so the cost wasn’t terrible. Only remaining component that I know of that needs replaced now is my bent rack. I personally know this car will never be the same and I accept that, Im still in the hole for it and it will be forever a learning experience, getting a new bumper, fenders, sideskirt, and a wrap come spring. Overall taking into account the aftermarket stuff I opted for in the process I’ve spent around $3k getting it to drive and for the new body pieces, the final cost to get the car to it’s mostly former glory is going to be around $5k total.

Yeah that would make the most sense, got it for a good price and I like the look mostly. The curb damaged a hoard of things, it bent a control arm in half, bent my rack, broke all 4 wheels, bent the rear sway bar mount, etc. I’ve fixed the majority of this, and I’m sure the strut functions as normal and that the screws are a little off is all. I’m thinking i’ll drill the hole’s a little bigger and secure it, it’s just for looks anyway.

I recently purchased an sti strut bar off a member and the passenger side mount slid onto the 3 bolts fine. The driver side on the other hand won’t line up with the bolts correctly. My car smacked a curb going like 40 awhile ago and it goofed a lot of stuff so I wouldn’t be surprised if the strut bolts were bent slightly or something. Now what I’m asking is what would be the best solution? Attempt to bend the mount into place? Try and bend the bolts back to place? Drill larger holes on the strut bar? Kind of lost on what my options are or should be. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

It’s a car meet every other sunday, it’s held at spoken moto coffee shop in bend at 8am. Tons of cars, subarus especially. There’s one this upcoming sunday, it’d be cool to see you.

Yeah! I have 3 buddies with LGTs as well! I got a few plans for the car come spring, hopefully the car will be fully wrapped burgundy, and it’ll be pro tuned on the vf52 I got awhile back. Just waiting on some body work stuff, an external wastegate, and some top feed fuel line stuff, and for it to warm up of course. Idk if you hang out around cars and coffee much, but I’m usually there. It’s super fun.

Alright so to start off the noise it’s making is a sort of metal scraping sound, almost like something is dragging. Here’s a video of it: Now I’ve checked the turbo, the exhaust, and looked for anything dragging and all seems good. What in the world could this sound be? The noise presents itself when letting off the throttle, noise does not change when brakes are applied, speed effects the speed of the noise, neutral does not change noise, clutch in doesn’t change noise, the noise entirely dissapears above around 50, noise is mostly eliminated whilst accelerating. Any ideas are much appreciated.

PM’d about AOS, Injectors, Intercooler, and Pedals.

All parts are best offer, buyer will pay shipping or pick it up. All parts have roughly 117k on them unless stated otherwise. I accept payment through venmo. 1)Blown 5spd Tranny - blew 3rd and it took out the rest I believe, might be good for a core 2) SPT CAI - unknown miles, was told it fit legacy but cannot guarantee 3) Broken Bumper w/ Fogs - bumper ate the curb, will separate fogs if wanted 4) Stock Grill - chrome is starting to peel from bottom portion 5) Stock Catback - everything behind the downpipe 6) Stock Shifter - pulled for short throw

Looking for an intercooler, fmic or upgraded would be preferred, send me a pm if you have anything. Need something asap.

Yeah the rev9 should put me by until I get the funds together for my vf52 project, which should be soon. Body work comes first though, who knew a curb could be so expensive lol.

Bulletproof is only good till 17 psi? Stage 2 is right below that, and my buddies have been running stage 2 on their stockers for a few years with no issues, one of em is tuned up to 19.5 psi on a vf52 stock intercooler so I’m surprised the bulletproof is only advertised to 17; I’m sure it’d be able to reliably run more than that.

Yeah I found a rev9 one for the time being for $150 used, apparently they got their intercoolers the same place perrin used to? Idk but it has some good reviews up on here, but yea the cxracing piping mainly has issues regarding the battery and fogs, but I’ve wanting a trunk mount battery for forever anyway, and I’ve never even found the fogs useful so I’ll probably install some other type of light system. I’m mainly going for a more minimalist engine bay look and the front mount achieves that.

Price for just the double din bezel without the steering wheel controls shipped?

Yeah the vac leak was the stock top mount, and in the previous post the gasket was referring to the oring that was giving me troubles with my power steering. I plan to go with an fp green/meth injection quite some time down the line after I’ve saved to get some forged internals. I just want something to tame my power fit until then. Is there anyway to temporarily repair the top mount?

I also shop very budget minded, not in terms of cheap parts, but I buy a lot of stuff used. Got my vf52 with a drilled bolt on the intercooler connection, no shaft play for $130. Got my ewg pipe used for $100. So I like the benefits and cost to power of a front mount, I planning to either buy a nice kit, or buy just the piping off the cxracing kit and get a different intercooler. I forgot who it was that made fmic for our cars awhile back but I wish he was still in business.

FMIC holds a special place in my heart on Subarus. I think it’s like a defiance from subaru’s bad design, I’ve also seen people report something like 30hp on the gains. My choices are either a nice front mount setup for like $600 or a grimmspeed top mount for $1k+. It’s also just appealing in the looks department as I hate how the top mount looks and the hassle of having to pull it off all the time to check mundane things. I have no problems deleting my washer fluid or fogs.