jasqi

Oh and regarding the power steering, o-ring fixed it!

Found it. TMIC pooped, now I want some opinions. I’ve planned to go fmic for awhile now, I’ve been gathering parts in order to install all at once and get one tune. I already have my vf52, I’ve already ordered my ewg uppipe. The total mods I wanted to gather was fuel pump/injectors, fmic, ewg, headers, and cold air intake. My problem now being is do I buy and install the fmic now with whatever else I have and get a tune, or do I fork over the $100 for a used top mount to keep me going until I get the full lot together. A local tune would run me about $400. Another question being is I’ve heard people run 20 something psi on vf52 and stock fueling, is it really safe for me to do so?

Yeah I’ve heard of the infamous input gasket that fails, I went and bought a new one, installing tomorrow. I could see it was leaking ps fluid from that area, I’m just hoping the pump didn’t die as well, I’ll also pressurize the system tomorrow and see what’s up, I already bought an ewg uppipe with a block off plate as well just in case it’s that upper cat clogging. If it’s not that Im thinking the wastegate but not sure how to test that.

So I am having a problem where when entering boost the car flutter and jerks a bit, I also haven’t been able to bridge above 12 psi in 3rd. I pulled the TMIC, checked vac lines, cleaned air filter, and checked my turbo. Now before I took everything off the car would almost die when you hit the clutch, after I took everything off and reconnected it it will actually stall out when pushing in the clutch. I’m also having a separate issue where after I pulled the airbox and such my power steering reservoir overflows and I have 0 power steering response. (included this just in case) Anybody have any ideas?

So I was driving my car around for awhile today and it was fine for the majority, near the end of my drive the car was stuttering and almost dying under a few conditions: when started, revving and then letting off, coming out of first. It also used to build boost to like 16.5 (I’m on Stage 2) but now it won’t even build past 12 under WOT. Also when the car is building boost and I let off it shakes pretty bad and pops. Here’s a video of me trying to build boost on the highway: I am lost as to what this is, as it was driving perfectly fine earlier, the only two codes I’ve gotten is for EGT High Input, and Catalytic Converter Efficiency which have been coming up on the highway for weeks and I researched it and people say it’s normal for a catless car. I tried resetting the ECU and letting the dam build back up but it still didn’t help and I haven’t gotten any codes yet. My AFR Learning also hit like -14 if that’s important.

Yeah now that I think about it’s really only in 1st and 2nd, any other gear and I hear a nice spool noise when building boost. I also believe I’m running a smfw because the previous owner mentioned swapping out the clutch for something more aggressive. When I grenaded my tranny a few months ago I saw aftermarket clutch pieces through the pressure plate hole. I can also feel the clutch, I have 2 friends with lgts, and a few others with wrx’s and their clutch pedal feels so light, but my car’s clutch pedal is so stiff that when I first bought it I was questioning whether I could actually drive the thing, and it was quite the learning curve controlling that thing. Big sigh of relief, now I can get my body work done in peace lol. Thanks everyone, especially you Max.

I just uploaded the videos of the turbo noise and my attempt to move it for shaft play to youtube. Everything sounds normal to me except the supercharger type whining it does when slowing down

Yea I spun it around with my fingers and it spun very well, no audible noise or resistance.

Alright pulled the downpipe today, tried to move the compresser wheel with my fingers and it wouldn’t budge whatsoever, got a video of it but can’t seem to upload it. Anyways does no shaft play mean I’m good or should I look out for some other things? I will say the wheel looks pretty dry, idk if that’s normal or if it should be oily?

I bought an oem one with low miles from a junkyard already, I’m slapping the whiteline bushings and bump steer kit on as well. Mine didn’t go out, but it’s bent on the driver side and my alignment right now is wild.

Yeah I’ve been working quite a lot lately so I’m just waiting till xmas eve to pull the downpipe, but yeah my intake silencer is removed. I didn’t even begin to consider my turbo was going out until someone at a meet heard how loud it was and told me it might be going out. I plan on going vf52 and everything at some point, but I need to sort out some body work and a steering rack first so it would suck if I had to replace the turbo right now.

side note: is a small whine normal on these turbos because mine isn’t excessive at all it’s quite faint imo.

I plan on going vf52 with ewg and fmic soon so I think Imma just gut mine for the time being if that seems to be the problem, I have a video of the supercharger type whine but it won’t let me upload it :/. If the turbo is practically gone though and all else is good I might just upgrade to the vf52 now and have the car detuned until I get the supporting fuel system mods and what not. There are quite a few cobb dyno tuners in my area so it wouldn’t be much of an inconvenience. But yea I think like weekly instances of -32 is wack and with that high of a reading I can’t conceive it being an actual knock reading, it never happens through WOT either it’s always just random.

I do have a cobb and the catless down, I’m on stage 2 right now and the knock was freaking me out because I’ve heard of how bad the Cobb OTS tunes can be, but 2 of my friends are running the same exact downpipe and stage 2 91 and they experience almost none, so I think it’s phantom knock coming from somewhere, combined with the metal sort of noise I’m hoping everything is just that stupid cat. But as a note I was hitting -32 knock sometimes and even -62 I believe it was once with no audible knock. Only time I ever had dam change was drifting through a snowy parking lot and it upped back to 1.00 shortly after.

Ah thank you, I was wildly confused because I’ve heard of the bearing failing and the turbine fails altogether which sends the fine bearing particles through your oil and an engine flush is needed before catastrophic engine failure. My guess is I’ve got some what okay or it’s somehow unbalanced and the turbine is clipping the housing when cold? I’m not sure but I’ll check today. I might also pop off the uppipe and check the cat because I’ve heard it can make the metal scraping sort of noise when it falls apart, this would also likely be an explanation for some wild feedback knock I’ve been getting but no change in DAM or fine knock learn.

Another note is that I hit boost and power fine, the car starts up and runs great, I just hear the supercharger whine noise occasionally, and the sort of metal scraping noise when I hit boost and let the car decelerate itself when cold, and the turbo has lots of “woosh” noise during boost if that makes any sense. I recently did an oil change and didn’t find any metal particles in the oil.

Why a new shortblock? What would be wrong with the engine? The car runs and drives pretty well, Im just mainly concerned about the noises the turbo is making.

I have a 2005 Legacy GT, my friends have told me since I first bought the car that the turbo was extremely loud compared to their modified one’s, I thought it was just an anomaly and I personally thought it was awesome. Recently someone else with a highly modified legacy told me at a meet that my turbo was going out. Here are my problems: occasionally while hitting boost in a low gear I can hear a sort of supercharger whine, also quite recently if the car is on the colder end if I accelerate in 2nd and don’t shift I hear a sort of metal scraping noise. Just wanna know if I’m past the point of a rebuild, or if I should just upgrade asap.

Whipped up a Accessport screen for anyone else who might want it:

See I like the overengineered idea of having another map as I would like to be able to shit the system off whenever possible and run a normal map..

I plan on going with a Snow Performance Stage 2 Kit for Meth Injection. It states it has 4 fail safes, and I've heard of people wiring it in a way where the car has 2 maps (Meth/Non-Meth) and when a failsafe is triggered the ECU switches to another map. I've heard of people using the Cobb Flex Fuel Kit and tapping into the TGV, but I still don't fully understand how this operates. Would the map switching be controlled through the Cobb, or the ECU? And would I have to purchase the flex fuel kit to use this feature. I've also heard of grounding out the test mode connector at failsafe, but again I don't fully understand how this is tuned, and split into a failsafe map.

Ok cool, I live in central oregon which I should’ve mentioned beforehand. The 5th gear synchro issue might put me off a bit as I make a highway commute everyday and I treat it like a racetrack lol. I liked the stock tran’s ratios for the most part besides the rpms being quite high in 5th going 80. I was looking for something maybe a little stronger as I plan to push the car to around 350hp 400tq doing meth injection, bigger turbo, etc. I’ll definitely read up on those threads and see what I wanna do, thank you!

So apparently my trans has been leaking gear oil for awhile, I bought the car about a week or so ago, and 3rd gear blew up cause it was starved of oil. I had heard these trannies were a little weird so I didn't bat much of an eye of sounds and shift feel. 3rd gear ended up taking out the whole tranny (won't even push in neutral). I'm confident in doing the swap myself as I've done two clutch jobs in a 02, and 04 Impreza. My main question being, what's my best option for replacement? I have a few trans shops where I live that I believe do rebuilds, but I'm not exactly sure how much it'd be for a rebuild vs used. I see the used trannys go for like $700-1100 on market place, and double that on ebay. I also know a spec b 6 speed swap is in my options, but considering how relatively rare they are, I'd believe they go for a strong premium. I love this car and plan on keeping it for a fair amount of years and I want to choose something strong, and reliable.