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Switchblade with Integrated Remote


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well i thought i'd spruce up the "performance mods" forum with my latest dremel adventure.

 

While I don't expect anyone to actually try to do this, I'm writing a walkthrough anyway:

 

to Create a Subaru Switchblade Key with Integrated Remote

 

to start:

acquire the following

 

1. OEM Subaru LGT Remote

2. Copied LGT Key (from the hardware store)

3. Audi Switchblade Key ($25, eBay.com)

4. A Chip from your Subaru Key

tools:

 

1. Dremel

2. Large Cutting Piece

3. Small Cutting Piece

4. Metal Driller

5. Small Metal Driller

6. TORQ T5, T6

7. Time

8. Meticulousness

9. JB Weld Glue

10. A Small Screw (same size as AR back cover bottom screws)

 

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n249/Triskite/DSC01180.jpg

 

my personal favorite:

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n249/Triskite/DSC01181.jpg

 

 

1. Open both the Audi and the Subaru remote.

The Audi back cover pops off to reveal 3 torq screws. Unscrew them with the T6. You will now have a battery cover, a back cover, a front cover, a key, the spring and a circular metal piece (to work the switchblade). Place all but the front cover aside.

(The Subaru remote just pops open)

 

2. Remove the Circuit Board from the front cover of the Audi Remote (AR).

 

3. Pop out the front buttons from the AR.

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n249/Triskite/DSC01150.jpg

 

4. Examine the Subaru Remote (SR) so you have some idea how it will eventually fit into the AR.

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n249/Triskite/DSC01151.jpg

 

5. Dremel the SR front (side with buttons) leaving ONLY WHAT IS NECESSARY. You will be literally *integrating* these buttons into the AR housing.

 

6. Dremel the hell out of the AR front cover, so that the SR front cover will fit.

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n249/Triskite/DSC01161.jpg

 

The Top screw will be completely dremeled away, and most of the inner rubber securing the back in place. Ensure placement allows proper movement of the switchblading key.

 

Note: The SR front cover housing and chip will PROTRUDE from the AR about 2-5mm

 

7. Once the SR front cover (SRFC) is satisfactorily seated within the AR front cover (ARFC), JBWeld its sides, but be sure not to get glue where the SR buttons will move.

 

8. Place the chip and rubber chip housing of the SR into the SRFC.

 

9. Cut the SR back cover leaving only what is NECESSARY (battery, panic button switch, battery +/- wires connecting to the circuit terminals.

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n249/Triskite/DSC01168.jpg

 

10. Dremel the AR back cover so that it will fit. I left the bottom two screw moldings, and top left portion intact...

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n249/Triskite/DSC01167.jpg

 

 

11. Disassemble the AR switchblade key. This can be done with the T5 and some force. There is a small pin holding the key into the metal switchblade mechanism. Pop this pin out and the key will slide out.

 

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n249/Triskite/DSC01156.jpg

 

12. Dremel your Subaru copied key until it matches the AR key perfectly.

 

13. Slide your newly cut Subaru key into the AR metal mechanism, thing.

Hammer the pin back in place.

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n249/Triskite/DSC01169.jpg

 

14. Ensure your remote works before reassembling.

 

15. Assemble the switchblade mechanism, hold front and back AR covers 1cm apart with spring in place, and turn the front cover 360 degrees to achieve a springing mechanism.

 

EDIT: 360 degrees COUNTER CLOCKWISE (the same direction the spring twists).

 

16. Close the AR/SR together, and keep constant pressure in the top as you screw the bottom two screws in.

 

17. Use a small dremel drilling bit to make a tiny incision next to the top of the switchblade key, so that you can screw the front and back covers together.

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n249/Triskite/DSC01177.jpg

 

18. Acquire a chip for your car from one of your keys... or something. you can put it between the AR back cover and AR battery cover:

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n249/Triskite/DSC01170.jpg

 

(where the hole is)

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n249/Triskite/DSC01187.jpg

EDIT: This location does not work. So I moved the chip a little higher:

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n249/Triskite/DSC01189.jpg

 

 

Done.

 

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n249/Triskite/DSC01184.jpg

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n249/Triskite/DSC01179.jpg

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n249/Triskite/DSC01178.jpg

 

While it looks ugly as hell, it works and isn't about to break anytime soon.... I'll do aesthetic corrections later...

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It's possible to program extra transmitters into the keyless entry using an 8 digit number inside the remote, or so I read, so maybe this 8 digit code reflects what frequency or something the remote transmits on and maybe there would be a corresponding audi remote signal that could be programmed for the keyless entry? So you only need to add your key and not dremel up the housing. It seems the audi buttons would line up decenty with the buttons on the LGT circuit board though, at least from your pictures. It'd probably be easier to replace the audi board with the LGT board and work with the buttons. I wish I had an audi remote now =(
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ok, so I got bored and imported this image http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n249/Triskite/DSC01150.jpginto 3ds max and overlayed a plane into the AR and constructed a plane out of the LGT circuit board and overlayed that into the AR. The vertexs for the buttons don't line up very well. You could probably get the top and bottom button to match but the middle button is way off. With a bit of tinkering though I'm sure you could get it to work, so you'd just pull the guys out of the audi remote and and just the inside of the lgt remote and that would make a much nicer looking LGT/Audi key fob thing. Anyways, I was suffering from some insomnia and needed something to do and now I'm tired so I'm off to bed.
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originally i intended only to swap the electronics, not the physical housing. but after i puzzeled over how to get the buttons to align or to design some tiny lever to tap the correct place.... i realized it was just impractical, and prone to functional problems.

 

what would be ideal would be for subaru to just make one of these for us.

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Hey homos, do you think the light bulb looked great Albert Einsteins first attempt. NO! Do you think Oppenheimer's first version of the telephone was pretty. NO WAY! And if you think Alec Eiffel's first model of the Adidas tennis shoe looked good, you are sorely mistaken. These things take a little time to perfect, so give him/her a break already.
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Hey $%#$%#, do you think the light bulb looked great Albert Einsteins first attempt. NO! Do you think Oppenheimer's first version of the telephone was pretty. NO WAY! And if you think Alec Eiffel's first model of the Adidas tennis shoe looked good, you are sorely mistaken. These things take a little time to perfect, so give him/her a break already.

 

 

I didn't say it wasn't creative.... I IMPLIED that it is ugly. I give him kudos for being willing to hack up his stuff and create that "Franken-key".

 

:lol:

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Yes...the key master is back for another key swap!! I enjoyed your last key swap with the STI, and I'm glad to see you bought a rotory tool this time. Dude, don't stop this is great entertainment.:icon_bigg
My wife's balls are delicious.
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ok well lets be constructive for just one question on this post for a sec--

(but dont get me wrong, i love reading all your guys' shit, please resume after answering)

 

who knows of a remote starter system that has a very small remote?

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  • 2 weeks later...

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