msmith Posted March 22, 2005 Share Posted March 22, 2005 Hi, guys... Today we finished the rear doors, so I thought I'd post some pix. First, here's what came out of there... the stock 6.5-inch Panasonic speakers... paper cone, foam roll, small voice coil... probably cost about $3.00 - $4.00 each. They have a funky mounting flange with a thick cardboard spacer to create a reasonable seal against the door panel. Any aftermarket speaker will require custom spacers. http://img30.exs.cx/img30/3102/stockrears2hw.th.jpg. Next, Gary applied Dynamat Extreme to the inside of the door's outer skin. http://img30.exs.cx/img30/2990/dynamat19vk.th.jpg Gary fabricated some ABS panels to seal off the large hole in the rear of the door (we don't want the speaker's back wave energy to come back around and buzz the door panels). http://img30.exs.cx/img30/3227/abspanel8la.th.jpg Next step was to apply Dynamat Extreme to the outside of the door's inner skin, further deadening the door and sealing off all the small holes. http://img30.exs.cx/img30/6692/dynamat25ls.th.jpg Here's a detailed view of the plexiglass spacers Gary fabricated to bolt up to the factory mounting holes and accept the XR650 coaxial. He likes to use plexi because, unlike wood, it won't swell or shrink. http://img30.exs.cx/img30/6096/adaptordetail4eo.th.jpg There you have it... we then connected the speakers and reattached the door panels. More to come... Manville Smith JL Audio, Inc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
axis008 Posted March 23, 2005 Share Posted March 23, 2005 Looks excellent, Manville! I have one question though. I don't know anything about acoustics, but you know how you sealed the bottom hole with ABS plastic, how come you didn't seal the upper hole as well, except with space for the wires and such? Wouldn't that also have the same issue? Or is it to far or welded off with metal somewhere inside? -ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmith Posted March 23, 2005 Author Share Posted March 23, 2005 Excellent question (and a good eye), Axis... there is a very stout styrofoam pad on the door panel that meets that upper hole and stiffens the span of Dynamat across the upper hole, so it wasn't necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firedawgs Posted March 23, 2005 Share Posted March 23, 2005 Thats alot of dynomat. What size spacers are needed for the front and rear? Any clearance/depth issues with either front or rear?? Updated my vBGarage: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted March 23, 2005 Share Posted March 23, 2005 Manville - how about the wiring? I see you pulled new cable in.....how was access through the OEM guides? I need to pull in at least 16-4 or else mount my crossovers in the door (not the best place, in case adjustments are needed on the tweeter level at some point). From what I can tell, you pulled dual runs of 16awg, maybe even 14awg cable, which is great to know. I have a spool of Monster MCX2 sitting around....that's about the size of 4awg, though I can strip off the outer layer that holds the twist and get it down to about 12awg for the last bit into the door.. Thanks! -Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmith Posted March 23, 2005 Author Share Posted March 23, 2005 Firedawg... the spacers are 1-inch thick. Patagonian... wire access through the door boots is a pain in the butt, but Gary managed to pull a 12 AWG pair for the woofer and a 16 AWG for the tweeter through the factory boot. It would have been a lot easier to pull two runs of 16 AWG (and perfectly adequate from a performance point of view)... but Gary is a stubborn old dude. We also left the factory speaker wires alone so that the car can be returned to stock someday. My crossovers will be mounted in the hatch area. Mounting them in the doors is not a good idea for several reasons... need to access for adjustment, moisture, rattling, troubleshooting... you name it. For the front doors, we needed to run three wire pairs (two mids and one tweeter), so we used three 16 AWG wires into the door. If you just needed two pairs, then a 12 AWG and a 16 AWG would fit. Axis... I need to correct an earlier post about the upper door hole... the styrofoam pad actually contacts the lower hole, not the upper hole in the door. Gary decided to just use Dynamat up top to allow easier clearance for the door pull cables and the wiring harness. Being that the rear door speakers will be playing at a much lower level levels than the front, this is probably an acceptable compromise. The Dynamat is a fairly effective barrier by itself. When it comes to the front doors he will get more "medieval" with the panels. As a final note... Gary is actually very impressed with the way the LGT is built. He is typically very critical of how car interiors are designed and put together, but he thinks the LGT is a very nice car to work on. It comes apart easily and goes back together easily, with excellent panel fit and integrity. -Manville Smith JL Audio, Inc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crash Posted March 23, 2005 Share Posted March 23, 2005 Can you tell us if this diagram matches the spacer you built? http://www.tmz.com/wrx/cad/spacer.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John M Posted March 23, 2005 Share Posted March 23, 2005 From my recollections of installing my speakers, that pdf looks right. Wish I'd seen it before my install Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crash Posted March 23, 2005 Share Posted March 23, 2005 That guy's also got files you can give to anyone with a CNC machine to machine out the parts... http://www.tmz.com/wrx/fspeakers.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted March 23, 2005 Share Posted March 23, 2005 From my recollections of installing my speakers, that pdf looks right. +1 Luckily, I saved mine when I stripped the WRX of all the goodies at trade. I will need to cut a second set.......I like the plexiglass idea. The only problem is finding something thick enough but in small enough quantity (vs. a whole sheet). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crash Posted March 23, 2005 Share Posted March 23, 2005 So the front and the rear spacers are the same? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fzanetti Posted October 10, 2007 Share Posted October 10, 2007 Great thread... Flavio Zanetti Boston, MA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D_J Posted December 23, 2007 Share Posted December 23, 2007 Subscribe! Msmith - are any of the speaker grills for sale? I really like how you did the cargo area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvento Posted December 23, 2007 Share Posted December 23, 2007 I know there is a stealth box for the rear of the wagon. Hope that helps you out. Oh yea check out jl website. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bravonoj Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 anywhere these CNC PDF Files have moved to? obviusly TMZ Is quite a different site now.....:-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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