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Replacing factory speakers


Cone_Killer

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I have done quite a bit of research and I think I have figured out what I want. Having a dual auto climate control, I don't want to invest in doing a double din conversion. With retaining the factory head unit, I am leaning towards (4) JBL GTO628's or P662s with the JL Cleansweep.
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I'm not sure how badly all of these will be underpowered from the factory unit... but...

 

JBL.... lets move past that ....

 

 

MB Quart RCM216

Boston Acoustics SC65

 

Rainbow

A/D/S/ (search ebay)

Focal

 

You'll be much happier with any of those, and I know they have lines in the ~$100 a set range like the JBLs are tagged at.

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^ I was under the impression that the cleansweep was just used to "smooth" out the signal.. I'm guessing thats incorrect now. I'm really not big into audio but I'm sure I've lost tons of sound quality over the years. Say I just wanted to replace the speakers alone, would you still reccomend the ones above?
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I did the JL Cleansweep, a RF Punch 400a4 (Made in USA, used off eBay), and Polk db6501/651s. I'm in the process of replacing the speakers (pretty sure they blew up) and my left channel after something went very wrong with the amp (looks like a FET might have reached end-of-life and shorted as a result of a poorly soldered wire). The amp is pretty rebuildable, and one of the reasons why I bought it, but I digress.

 

I loved the setup before the left channel committed suicide.

 

Get the speaker spacers from phenryiv1: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/3-4-pvc-door-speaker-spacers-adapters-made-order-142882.html?p=4483454#post4483454. You can order the screws and 3/4" adhesive weatherstripping foam off mcmaster.com for a reasonable price

 

Be sure to get the forward and reverse harnesses from ae64.com as well so you retain your factory wiring (I hate cutting and splicing factory wiring - just pay the $25 for a plug and go solution).

 

I ran all new speaker wire using the factory plastic tunnels under the door runners, but you can cut the factory wire as well.

 

 

 

^ I was under the impression that the cleansweep was just used to "smooth" out the signal.. I'm guessing thats incorrect now. I'm really not big into audio but I'm sure I've lost tons of sound quality over the years. Say I just wanted to replace the speakers alone, would you still reccomend the ones above?

 

The Cleansweep takes your head unit signal, flattens the signal, then outputs it to an external amplifier so you retain the use of your OEM head unit.

 

If you want to replace only the speakers, just replace the speakers. Audio adds up fast. I spent $170 on speakers, $200 on the CS, $125 on the amp, $20 on wire, $65 on spacers and hardware, $65 on Dynamat and roller. Get dynamat and do it while you're in there. It definitely is worthwhile (one door kit will do the entire car).

 

There are a few accounts of the Polks I bought working fine on the factory radio. They will work, they just won't get as loud as with an external amp. The factory stereo puts out 60W total. My "400W" amp probably put out 500-600W as per most of the birth sheets of other USA-made Punch series amps.

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I did the JL Cleansweep, a RF Punch 400a4 (Made in USA, used off eBay), and Polk db6501/651s. I'm in the process of replacing the speakers (pretty sure they blew up) and my left channel after something went very wrong with the amp (looks like a FET might have reached end-of-life and shorted as a result of a poorly soldered wire). The amp is pretty rebuildable, and one of the reasons why I bought it, but I digress.

 

I loved the setup before the left channel committed suicide.

 

Get the speaker spacers from phenryiv1: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/3-4-pvc-door-speaker-spacers-adapters-made-order-142882.html?p=4483454#post4483454. You can order the screws and 3/4" adhesive weatherstripping foam off mcmaster.com for a reasonable price

 

Be sure to get the forward and reverse harnesses from ae64.com as well so you retain your factory wiring (I hate cutting and splicing factory wiring - just pay the $25 for a plug and go solution).

 

I ran all new speaker wire using the factory plastic tunnels under the door runners, but you can cut the factory wire as well.

 

 

 

 

 

The Cleansweep takes your head unit signal, flattens the signal, then outputs it to an external amplifier so you retain the use of your OEM head unit.

 

If you want to replace only the speakers, just replace the speakers. Audio adds up fast. I spent $170 on speakers, $200 on the CS, $125 on the amp, $20 on wire, $65 on spacers and hardware, $65 on Dynamat and roller. Get dynamat and do it while you're in there. It definitely is worthwhile (one door kit will do the entire car).

 

There are a few accounts of the Polks I bought working fine on the factory radio. They will work, they just won't get as loud as with an external amp. The factory stereo puts out 60W total. My "400W" amp probably put out 500-600W as per most of the birth sheets of other USA-made Punch series amps.

 

Awesome advice! I think I will just replace the speakers for now. I will be doing a bit more research on them as well. Hopefully have them ordered within a week or two.

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  • 2 weeks later...
I did the JL Cleansweep, a RF Punch 400a4 (Made in USA, used off eBay), and Polk db6501/651s. I'm in the process of replacing the speakers (pretty sure they blew up) and my left channel after something went very wrong with the amp (looks like a FET might have reached end-of-life and shorted as a result of a poorly soldered wire). The amp is pretty rebuildable, and one of the reasons why I bought it, but I digress.

 

I loved the setup before the left channel committed suicide.

 

To not leave this left as stated: I've since fixed my setup. Further investigation and consultation with experts yielded no damage to my amp. I found that the inductor on my left channel crossover broke one of the wires due to vibration and resoldered it. The vibrations also were severe enough to shake loose the terminal connector on the rear left speaker. I did have to recalibrate the Cleansweep because it somehow went out of calibration (it might have been due to me unplugging it).

 

Everything is peachy now and I'm rocking out again! I wholeheartedly recommend this setup!

 

 

Also, when installing the db's in the front, be sure to go into the wiring harness to find the correct wire to splice in to. It's in a few of the threads in this forum, so you should be able to search for it easily.

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