nhesketh Posted June 26, 2013 Share Posted June 26, 2013 I was at my dealership this morning for the brake corrosion recall inspection. They took the opportunity to try and sell me some repairs: one I am going to do myself, one I don't need, and one called "headlamp recondition" that the service guy claimed would last for years, as opposed to me doing the sand/polish thing myself. Anyone have any beta on what they do that is different? Is it one of those processes that dissolves the outer layer of the plastic? It is expensive; $45 for "parts" (have to assume that means materials) and $76 for labor. Just curious. n neil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soloz2 Posted June 27, 2013 Share Posted June 27, 2013 Anything that is going to last requires sanding the oxidized layer off and then adding a uv protection sealant. You can do this yourself for less money, but to do a good job it will take time. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2 Current: 16 Crosstrek Premium w/ Eyesight & 05 Outback XT 5MT Past Subies: 14 FXT Premium, 14 WRX hatch, 06 Legacy 2.5i SE 5MT, 98 Outback wagon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JermTheElf Posted June 27, 2013 Share Posted June 27, 2013 Sand it polish it and an auto body could hit it with clear coat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted June 27, 2013 Share Posted June 27, 2013 I've done the sanding myself using the 3M kit with the yellow wheel with great results. What UV protection clear coat layer would work? I haven't done that, but that might help me having to redo the process every few months. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JermTheElf Posted June 27, 2013 Share Posted June 27, 2013 I've done the sanding myself using the 3M kit with the yellow wheel with great results. What UV protection clear coat layer would work? I haven't done that, but that might help me having to redo the process every few months. Next time save money. Sandpaper grits 800-2500, wetsand rubbing compound plastx buff. You can make UV coating or buy some. There's recipes online Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quick4dr Posted June 27, 2013 Share Posted June 27, 2013 This is the crap the dealership probably tried to sell you: http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/lightrite-lrk-1/lightrite-headlamp-restore-single-application-kit-p-sat-lrk1 its okay for old headlamps like a 92 Taurus or a 95 civic but on modern lights with compound curvature to the housings, this stuff looks like garbage and is easily visable as having been sprayed when you look close. I do headlights all the time. instagram handle: jsadowsky25 #jspaintcare Sand only if needed. otherwise: 1) clean thoroughly with alcohol 2) SSR2 with orange pad if severely oxidized and yellowed 2) or apply SSR1 with a white white pad 3) clean thoroughly again 4) apply Pro Polish with white pad 5) apply pro polish with blue pad 6) seal with EX sealant, 7) top off with liquid wax All products used are Poorboys World Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted June 27, 2013 Share Posted June 27, 2013 Next time save money. Sandpaper grits 800-2500, wetsand rubbing compound plastx buff. You can make UV coating or buy some. There's recipes online $15 for the kit and it's still good... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shotokan1509 Posted June 29, 2013 Share Posted June 29, 2013 Don't know how long it will last but used Meguiars kit on mine last night, was quick & easy http://i1296.photobucket.com/albums/ag1/Shotokan1509/LGT/IMG_1507_zpsf9648f4c.jpg http://i1296.photobucket.com/albums/ag1/Shotokan1509/LGT/IMG_1510_zps59a49967.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quick4dr Posted July 3, 2013 Share Posted July 3, 2013 I have posted some of the lights I have done on Instagram, hashtag #jspaintcare Some of older cars and some newer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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