Max Capacity Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 stage 3, go bigger on the turbo. new oil return hose. remove banjo filter. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildriver Posted May 1, 2014 Author Share Posted May 1, 2014 if/when i have motor issues i'll rebuild and go with a HTA68. until then i think a corn fed VF52 will keep me plenty happy. i think i'll need a driver mod somewhere in the midst of all that too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildriver Posted August 2, 2014 Author Share Posted August 2, 2014 Need some opinions please! While installing the group n motor mounts I cross-threaded the stud that connects the mount to the crossbar. I was torquing down the washer/nut to 55 ft/lbs and the nut stripped. Pulled it off and cross-threaded the stud in the process. Can I grab a die and re-thread the stud and then put a new nut on? Or should I get a new mount? Thanks in advance Edit: Never mind. I got a second set of eyes to look at the motor mount and it turns out it was just the threads of the old nut that were still on the stud. Once we got those off the new nut went right on. The nuts still didn't torque like I was expecting but they are definitely on there tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildriver Posted August 4, 2014 Author Share Posted August 4, 2014 Hoping for a little help again... Working on ZL TGV's & ID1000's now. 1) I got new orange o-rings from Subaru (P/N 14035AA492) but they are much bigger than the originals. I haven't torqued the TGV's down yet but at only 6 ft-lb I can't imagine they will compress enough to get rid of that gap. The black o-rings that came with the ZL TGV's look too small to do the job. 2) I'm not sure if the injectors are fully seated. They feel correct but there is a gap that looks like it should be pushed in another 1/8" or so. I don't want to force them in there if I don't have to. Pic 1 - Orig orange o-rings Pic 2 - Orig orange o-rings #2 Pic 3 - New orange o-rings Pic 4 - New orange o-rings #2 Pic 5 - TGV>IM gap Pic 6 - ZL TGV black o-rings Pic 7 - Injector gap Thanks in advance for any help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 The orange o-rings will be fine. The TGV's are plastic, the o-rings seal not the torque, 6ftlbs is plenty. Did you lube the injector seals before you installed them ? If yes, you should be ok. I'm no expert on them. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildriver Posted August 4, 2014 Author Share Posted August 4, 2014 Did you lube the injector seals before you installed them ? If yes, you should be ok. I'm no expert on them. I did not put any lube on the injector seals... Top or bottom or both? Any specific type of lube? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 Motor oil will work. Dish soap will too. Vaseline also. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildriver Posted August 13, 2014 Author Share Posted August 13, 2014 Ended up having extra lube from the DW fuel pump so I used that. Once I torqued down the IM and the fuel rail things lined up perfectly. Re-installing the IM was way easier than taking it out. I taped just about every connection on the IM and in the engine bay before tackling it to make sure I didn't miss anything. Pics to follow! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 13, 2014 Share Posted August 13, 2014 Isn't it nice when things fit together like they were made that way... 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildriver Posted August 13, 2014 Author Share Posted August 13, 2014 Yeah, funny how that works out! Overall I'm very happy with how things went considering this build was a little bit out of my comfort zone. Hit some snags here and there but nothing catastrophic. Got it tuned by NF Performance over the weekend, Nuke was having some fun with this turbo as he's never worked with one before. Estimated to be around 300-320whp. So much fun! Final list of parts installed over a 4.5 day period: 6SS Billet PnP'ed VF52 PTP Lava turbo blanket GS turbo heat shield wrapped in DEI gold tape IP&T oil line feed kit v2 GS DP limited, coated, wrapped, and sealed Zerolift TGVs ID1000cc injectors DW65c fuel pump GS EBCS Turbosmart Kompact BPV Killer B oil pickup and windage tray Group N motor mounts Bulletproofed TMIC Extra-S gear oil New coolant Lots of zip-ties http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l97/03evildriver/spec%20B/20140801_211112_zps501f4483.jpg http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l97/03evildriver/spec%20B/PicsArt_1405519199898_zpskhfyynk8.jpg http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l97/03evildriver/spec%20B/20140805_18_zpsf3f4d86b.jpg http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l97/03evildriver/spec%20B/20140805_22_zps91406989.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildriver Posted September 10, 2014 Author Share Posted September 10, 2014 I've developed a leak somewhere... It's been getting more pronounced over the last few days. I can only hear it under boost. Just sounds like air escaping, hissing. It tends to go away once the car is fully warmed up. Any ideas on where to start? I'll be taking a look this weekend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 10, 2014 Share Posted September 10, 2014 I'm thinking a boost leak test. You know how to plug the tube coming from the air filter box with a pint size paint can and give the small hose off the BOV a quick blast of air and put your thumb over the hose. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildriver Posted September 19, 2014 Author Share Posted September 19, 2014 can anyone confirm the turbo inlet > MAF OD? i measured it to be about 3" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 I'm thinking it was a bit less than that. How big is a pint size paint can... You know those paint samples you pay $8.00 for from Home Depot. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildriver Posted September 19, 2014 Author Share Posted September 19, 2014 i was thinking of something along the lines of this... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildriver Posted May 25, 2015 Author Share Posted May 25, 2015 Hoping to get some input from you guys... This weekend was brakes. I started off with ss brake lines (idk why I continue to put these on my cars, they always cause headaches). Started with FL and wrestled with the hex nut on the hardline for a bit, but won the battle. When I went to check the MC reservoir afterwards it was LOW. I didn't take the time to shine a light on it and check just how low but after completing the rest of the lines and bleeding, the brake pedal has zero pressure upon starting the car. Can someone confirm my fears that a MC bench bleeding is likely in my future? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 I would think that if you let the fluid get that low, that's the only fix. It sounds like you didn't keep refilling the reservoir after bleeding each wheel twice or three times. I also don't understand why normal people think they need SS brake lines. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildriver Posted May 25, 2015 Author Share Posted May 25, 2015 I checked the reservoir religiously after installing the first line because it was so low (went much quicker than I was expecting), so that is the only time air would have gotten into the MC. I agree, I don't know why I did them either. Figured I was already down there, might as well. Never again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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