jakeafton Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 When I start my LGT before it warms up it makes a loud clicking noise. It sounds like a really loud lifter issue, like a Toyota or Honda in need of a lifter adjustment but it's louder like amplified. It wasn't doing this when I first purchased the car, at least not as loud. It seems to be getting louder. My AC isn't hooked up, so I'm going to put on a new alternator belt and AC belt since I'll be doing that, I'm hopeful that will resolve the noise. Any thoughts? I know they make a clicking noise and they aren't adjustable, but like I said, it seems to have got a lot louder over the last month, month and a half. I've been driving a LOT for work, but I've kept up on maintenance and all the fluids are always good. Does't leak or burn any oil at all... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tr00b Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 Ive never heard one of these cars in need of a valve adjustment. This could be piston slap, which happens because the engine is wearing out and these cars have very short piston skirts. The piston makes a rocking motion in the cylinder and causes a tapping sound which is deeper than a valve tick. Its pretty common and is nothing to really worry about. If you get a mechanics stethoscope and listen for where the noise originates, you will know for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakeafton Posted June 13, 2013 Author Share Posted June 13, 2013 It gets better as it warms up, as in it disappears almost completely. Is that indicative of piston slap? If timing was off a tooth, it wouldn't get better and the engine would bog some and idle strange, wouldn't it? It idles perfect(minus the noise) and revs beautifully... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 I just had forged pistons put in my motor recently. During cold start ups, it sounds like a diesel engine (piston slapping) until it full warms up, then it sounds normal. Go to youtube and type in "Subaru Piston Slap" and determine if that's the same sound you're having. If the timing belt is off a tooth, the car will run and idle rough. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakeafton Posted June 13, 2013 Author Share Posted June 13, 2013 [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7NVjR4CYrCw]Subaru EJ25 Piston Slap - YouTube[/ame] Yeah, like that. But wow that one is loud, mine is not that loud. I hope it doesn't get worse. Must be a write-up somewhere on how to fix it, I'm assuming..? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tr00b Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 Ride a bike... lol That vid sounds real bad... probably an extreme case or main bearings going Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 No, that is the typical sound of piston slap. The slapping goes away after full warm up, because the pistons will expand once they are hot and seal closer to the cylinder walls, preventing the slapping sound. Nothing to worry about unless you start having major oil consumption issues. If you do, that means 1 or more piston rings are starting to go out. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 what year? 2.2L or 2.5L engine? have you checked the oil lately? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakeafton Posted June 14, 2013 Author Share Posted June 14, 2013 1998 Legacy 2.5 GT Just changed the oil Sunday night, oil looked great. I know it's not low. Strange thing is, yesterday morning and this morning it is nearly nonexistant. Sounds completely normal now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 so it is not the ej22 with HLAs which will clatter when the oil is low. the good news is that rad knock does not usually go away or get better. so it is probably not a rod bearing. even if it is, there is no easy fix, just replace it. so drive on until it gets easy to identify or fails all together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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