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Hertz Audio


senagal

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That may be true, but with the current class-D amplifiers, you're more than likely not to notice any difference, especially commuting.

 

The mental difference may be there though:P

 

(Diyma has multiple threads on this)

 

You are probably correct about not noticing the difference, but there is a reason why the hcp is a class d and the voce is an a/b. Then again most of us will never have high end enough speakers nor a discerning enough ear to tell the difference.

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You are probably correct about not noticing the difference, but there is a reason why the hcp is a class d and the voce is an a/b. Then again most of us will never have high end enough speakers nor a discerning enough ear to tell the difference.

 

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_68787_Precision-Power-i350.2.html

 

I've been waiting a long time for a manufacturer to offer a budget small footprint amplifier that accepts line level.

 

$119

6" x 6" -I have cereal bows larger than this.

 

I really regret not picking up a litebox (from Vibe) when Sonic had them for under $149. I believe the litebox is the same as ARC"s mini series.

 

 

I do not expect this amplifier to run with my old school Phoenix Gold M44's, but if this amplifier holds, it may be an excellent "plug in & play" for the notorious dual climate control radio

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Neither the L7 or W7 are cheap subs, and he's doing more than just throwing a big, expensive sub stage in his trunk.

 

I'll add to the rear speaker comment since it was brought up. I personally wouldn't (I actually don't) run rear speakers. If I was in your position, I would drop the rear speakers and put that money saved towards better front speakers. Some people like rears, be it for rear seat passengers or properly tuned rear fill. Personally though, I don't like them.

 

I started out running only Milles in the front but I didn't like it. Added some Focals in the rear for fill and like it better. The problem with going through all these gymnastics is, IMO, you can spend all the money you want to, but if you don't put a decent sub in, it will be second rate. If you're going to commit to a first rate system, you have to accept the fact you're going to lose trunk space or the spare tire. That's a compromise I'm simply not willing to make. Sometimes I wish I would, because my 6" sub is a glaring weakness in this system.

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If you're going to commit to a first rate system, you have to accept the fact you're going to lose trunk space or the spare tire.

 

if you use the enclosure from Stereoclarity, you won't lose either - enclosure fits right on top of your spare. I'm not sure if they make it for the 4th gen as well.

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Source is irrelevant? Now I've heard it all...

 

There's no sarcasm here. When it comes down to it, your source is nothing but a simple poteniometer (volume control). & if you can get a clean signal, it doesn't matter whether it's OEM or not.

 

 

When you add a DSP like the MS8, the MS8 doesn't become your "source." Your source is still your OEM HU.

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I started out running only Milles in the front but I didn't like it. Added some Focals in the rear for fill and like it better. The problem with going through all these gymnastics is, IMO, you can spend all the money you want to, but if you don't put a decent sub in, it will be second rate. If you're going to commit to a first rate system, you have to accept the fact you're going to lose trunk space or the spare tire. That's a compromise I'm simply not willing to make. Sometimes I wish I would, because my 6" sub is a glaring weakness in this system.

 

Yeah, I miss my dual 12" subs from my last car, but I like having my trunk space more now. I have an 8" sub in the rear deck, and it's better than nothing, but I wish I had more.

 

But my initial point was, installing a sub setup with an L7 or W7 would probably put this build over the OP's budget range. The comment of a build being pointless without one of those is just dumb.

MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII
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