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Hertz Audio


senagal

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Honestly, I've never heard of them - appear to be an Italian company with "premium" sound system -

 

I was quoted $1700+ for install of their speakers (6.5", with components in the front), amp and 12" sub in the trunk

 

Installer reportedly has their $4000k system installed in his own and their prices run past $15k based on reports online.

 

The install would be in a '13 Legacy with base radio - I plan to keep the base unit.

 

What do you guys think? There are claims that they are better than rockford fosgate :rolleyes:

 

The $$ is not so much an issue - but i'm wary of spending money on a relatively unknown brand - to me anyways.

 

Does the base radio ("premium" 6 speakers) come with an amplifier as well? where's it located?

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There are claims that they are better than rockford fosgate :rolleyes:

 

This made me LOL. If Rockford is your standard to compare audio equipment against as good or bad, you'll be very happy with the Hertz equipment.

 

Hertz is good stuff. It's hard to say if that $1700 is a good deal without knowing the actual part numbers they're installing though. Nevertheless, if they do a proper job installing everything, it should sound great.

 

If you're doing this with the factory head unit though, I'd do some research and get some sort of OEM integration unit to correct the factory EQ.

MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII
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That was my point - why even a comparison to RF when considering premium sound?

 

I am keeping the factory unit since 1) I like the red illuminations, 2) no local dealer has assured me that they have the capability of making the steering wheel controls work with non-OEM unit, good point on the EQ

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I am keeping the factory unit since 1) I like the red illuminations, 2) no local dealer has assured me that they have the capability of making the steering wheel controls work with non-OEM unit, good point on the EQ

 

I did the same. But, there are several aftermarket options that would allow you to keep the steering wheel controls. Some (all?) are programmable, so you can tell it what to do with each steering wheel button.

MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII
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Going with hertz on stock head unit will be like running race headers on a stock pinto... Pointless.

 

No

 

Your source is irrelevant as long as you have a clean signal.

 

OP, 1.7k sounds reasonable. Don't pay ANY attention to the price tags when you're in front of the soundboard auditioning component sets. He will try to sell you the highest priced sets. It's his job. If you think that $200 budget set sounds just as good as a set 3x the cost, then go for it!

 

Here's another option for you,

 

Why not try an aftermarket DSP & see how you like it? Rockford, Alpine, Audison, JBL; they all have their own DSP(s). You can pick up the beloved MS8 on Diyma for $3-400. It will do all the tuning for you!

 

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=264-1028&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla

 

http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/silver-flute-woofers-6-7/silver-flute-w17rc38-04-ohm-6-1/2-wool-cone/

 

I shit on Focal's K2 line every year with those & lol 1/5 the cost:lol: dbl, I had to. OP, don't pay any attention to that. (local dealer is Focal authorized)

 

Enjoy your new tunes!

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Nothing wrong with Hertz. I have their Milles driven by this 4 x 220:

 

http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv150/mikeinsac/S5001101.jpg

 

I would prefer a more powerful amp. Would not recommend at stock power.

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dbl, I had to.

 

Is this directed towards me? I feel like I missed something here :confused:

 

I agree with Ricer though. I liked the stock look for the HU and went with Alpine's OEM integration unit/processor and I've been happy with it so far.

MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII
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Thanks guys!!

 

Here are the parts...I believe they are all in the Energy line up:

 

HCP 5D

ES 300

ESK 165.5

ECX 165.5

processor (alpine)

 

Installer actually recommended against a new headunit - not much to be gained

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Is this directed towards me? I feel like I missed something here :confused:

 

I agree with Ricer though. I liked the stock look for the HU and went with Alpine's OEM integration unit/processor and I've been happy with it so far.

 

DIY enthusiasts. My budget is usually constrained, hence my driver selection. I wouldn't even know what to do w/ a budget of nearly 2k

 

$10 speakers will always have a place in my heart:P I think I spent more on installation than I did speakers, amplifiers, & my dsp

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Looks promising:)

 

How quiet is the vehicle?

 

I came out of a '11 335d and a friend of mine who has a lexus was impressed by how quiet that car was...

 

I would say the '13 Legacy is pretty close to it...there's a little of the tire noise with the 18" , but wind noise is not bad

 

I am using the Stereoclarity's sub enclosure and will be sound deadening the trunk and trunk lid- I am also thinking of doing that at least to the front doors - but don't want to deal with the panels - installer is offering to do it with dynamat for $180/door ---kind of pricey!!

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I am using the Stereoclarity's sub enclosure and will be sound deadening the trunk and trunk lid- I am also thinking of doing that at least to the front doors - but don't want to deal with the panels - installer is offering to do it with dynamat for $180/door ---kind of pricey!!

 

At least the front doors?

 

I'm going to feel really bad if you dish out that much money & not treat your doors. You have deadening too far down your priority list. I wouldn't even touch a panel if I wasn't going to treat it.

 

$180 including materials?

 

Just do it yourself.

 

Pop off the panel

Take off the plastic lining

Clean the metal

Now slap on the deadener

Put the panel back on.

 

It's not difficult.

 

How much deadener? 30% is sufficient. Seal any holes.

What to clean metal with? Isopropyl alcohol. Check your closet.

 

I recommend you heat up the deadener before applying it. A heat gun works great. Lmao, you don't need a roller. Your fingers might hurt the next day, but aren't you married? If you don't have a heat gun, lay the deadener out on the driveway & let it warm.

 

Hell, I use the oven ...when she's not looking

 

sonicelectronix.com carries deadener for a GREAT price. Diyma carries Alphadamp which is just thicker deadener. Their whole idea is "the thicker the deadener, the less you have to put on." Trust me, you don't want to be laying down a block of rubber. Who cares if it's thicker. I'd rather add that extra piece on there anyways just because it's that much easier. Don from SSD also has his own CLD tiles ...which are thicker yet.

 

I've used Alpha, Don's CLD, fatmat (SUCKS), Dynamat, & Stinger roadkill. I rock the roadkill because sonic carries it for cheap.

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I have installed some Hertz HSK165s in my front doors powered by a JL 2x110w amp. These door speakers rock! You will love them. Only problem I see is that the HCP5 is a class-D amp. Not a huge issue but an A/B will sound livelier. This setup will rock though.
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I am using the Stereoclarity's sub enclosure and will be sound deadening the trunk and trunk lid- I am also thinking of doing that at least to the front doors - but don't want to deal with the panels - installer is offering to do it with dynamat for $180/door ---kind of pricey!!

 

You're wasting your money if you install those door speakers without deadening the doors. At the very least, you need to seal all but the drainage holes in the bottom of the door. Your doors are the enclosures for the speakers, so if you don't deaden them properly, you're leaving a lot of performance on the table with the aftermarket speakers.

 

Why is everyone always so afraid of taking door panels off? Couple screws, pop-its around the perimeter, and unfasten a couple wire harnesses. That's it. I've done it on every car I've owned, never had an issue.

MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII
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Yep, I'm planning to install it myself - here's a product that a friend of mine had great results with , its Ultratouch -- it's 375 mil in thickness :)

 

http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/100656748?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100656748&R=100656748#.UZOHCaI3tc0

 

 

I am also using a GTMat 50 mil sound deadening in the trunk - at least as the first layer

 

can't wait to get this baby installed..

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I have installed some Hertz HSK165s in my front doors powered by a JL 2x110w amp. These door speakers rock! You will love them. Only problem I see is that the HCP5 is a class-D amp. Not a huge issue but an A/B will sound livelier. This setup will rock though.

 

Did you fit that crossover in the door?

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No I ended up mounting it outside the door just above the door speaker. Kinda where you see it in the picture, just better. If you look at the door panel there is a big pocket of room just above the speaker and behind the window switches. Sits right in there are doesnt make a peep.
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IMO 1700 for a system in a car is pointless. When you can get L7 or W7"s

 

Neither the L7 or W7 are cheap subs, and he's doing more than just throwing a big, expensive sub stage in his trunk.

 

I'll add to the rear speaker comment since it was brought up. I personally wouldn't (I actually don't) run rear speakers. If I was in your position, I would drop the rear speakers and put that money saved towards better front speakers. Some people like rears, be it for rear seat passengers or properly tuned rear fill. Personally though, I don't like them.

MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII
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IMO 1700 for a system in a car is pointless. When you can get L7 or W7"s

 

There was a time in my life where I'd be happy to correct this comment. Instead, I'll keep my ego down (I wish more would do the same on this forum) & tell you that "SPL" is probably not the OP's goal.

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Only problem I see is that the HCP5 is a class-D amp. Not a huge issue but an A/B will sound livelier.

 

That may be true, but with the current class-D amplifiers, you're more than likely not to notice any difference, especially commuting.

 

The mental difference may be there though:P

 

(Diyma has multiple threads on this)

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