Barely 4K on new turbo and may already be blown?

[jhaley18]

Hello,

 

Got a 2005 5EAT with barely 4K on the new turbo and I think it is going south. Was driving home today and on the 1st moderately steep hill I hit the car lost power and barely got up the hill. When the 1st turbo went it was very obvious. Loud rattling sound coming from the turbo and absolutely no power. No rattling this time around but have the same power loss. Any suggestions on things I can check without tearing the whole thing apart? Thanks.

 

Jim

[rob-2]

Pull off down pipe and look at it

[Moddiction]

Boost leak?

[thefultonhow]

Did you check the banjo bolt filter after your last turbo failed?

[jhaley18]

Will be taking off the downpipe and checking the turbine for play tomorrow. As far as the banjo bolt yes. I changed out the oil feed lines with new along with a new banjo bolt.

[Max Capacity]

When the last turbo went, was there metal in the oil pan ?

 

Did the new turbo make any different noise in the past few day's ?

 

 

 

Sorry, but I don't see how a turbo can just snap without giving any warning or noises.

 

 

Hopefully you just have a vacuum hose that fell off.

 

Hint, zip tie all the vacuum lines.

[jhaley18]

No metal in the oil pan. No whine from the turbo that I can hear. I do have a check engine light on (not flashing). Not sure of the code at this point but the car is definately having issues getting up hill. I do hear a bit of dieseling from the engine under load as well. I'm bringing it to a garage tomorrow morning.

[Dujo]

Fyi ... the 2005s have an onboard code reader procedure. Search here to find out how. Welcome to LGT.com!

[jhaley18]

Found the 2 white connectors, Thanks Dujo!. Pulled the following codes. P0011, P0021, P0171 and P0457. Based on a few posts I have read I might have some bad AVCS solenoids or OVC or all of the above and the air/fuel is too lean and possibly a disconnected EVAP purge hose. Yikes. Where do I begin? Any advice aside from the obvious disconnected hose? Thanks to all that have responded.

[Dujo]

If you're in Eastern Mass, check out Motive Auto Works. Highly recommended all over here. My car doesn't go anywhere else. I screw it up in my driveway. Alberto fixes it in Woburn.

[Max Capacity]

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/trouble-codes-cels-26113.html

 

 

The first two may be what kept oil from getting to the turbo. Check for shaft play.

 

P0171, could be cause by the front O2 sensor ?

 

Tighten the gas cap.

[jhaley18]

Quick Update: $1100 later I have a new water pump and timing belt, 2 new OCV's and a blown turbo on my way home. Any suggestions on what to replace it with and keep if from going again? Seriously considering scrapping this car at this point.

[Max Capacity]

Did the turbo put metal into the oil pan ?

 

Why the timing belt and water, are you at 105k miles ?

 

Did the turbo blow on the drive home after all that work ?

 

What happened to the orginal turbo 4000 miles ago ?

 

Please give us a time line we can follow.

[jhaley18]

Thanks Max,

 

Car just turned 100K, was changed as a recommendation by the mechanic as it was throwing the P0011 and P0021 codes which indicated a timing issue.

 

I suspected the turbo might be a problem on my way home from work, no power. Picking up the car from the garage this morning, started with a cloud of smoke, still no power and started hearing that rattle from under the hood.

 

The original turbo went in much the same fashion as this one. No power on the way home from work and the rattle (broken turbine shaft).

 

Jim

[shadowsports]

If it turns out you need a turbo... BNR is a great bolt on option.

[rob-2]

Quick Update: $1100 later I have a new water pump and timing belt, 2 new OCV's and a blown turbo on my way home. Any suggestions on what to replace it with and keep if from going again? Seriously considering scrapping this car at this point.

 

Did the new turbo come with some warranty? It might be wort replacing.

 

The challenge with these cars is they appear to be temperamental if they go south. While subi's N/A motors appear to last forever, their turbo'd versions suffer a different fate. Largely because the added complexities of boosting a motor, and frankly, Subi's poor designs.

 

My best advice is to have a trusted mech do a full review of your motor, checking oil, leak/comp, bore scope the cyls to determine if their scored. If your motor can be salvaged, replace the turbo and drive until you're too concerned to keep owning the car. If it needs replacing expect to get about $6k less then the low end of the market when you sell it.

 

I'm pulling my motor for a rebuild shortly, which will include forged pistons and aftermarket oil pick up to avoid the short comings of the original design. I'm going to do a range of other things to try and get 100K out of the stage 2 setup before I dump the car. This will be my last Subaru. It's been by far the most expensive car I've owned.

[jhaley18]

rob-2,

 

The turbo did come with a warranty, but not all the bases were covered during the last turbo replacement. Some of these items were covered but not all.

 

Replace Oil Pump w/ OE 11mm Oil Pump - Not done

Flush Oil System, Inc: AVCS, Oil Feed, Oil Drain, Oil Cooler, Oil Filter, Oil Pan, Etc.

Remove, Inspect / Replace AVCS Valves - Did not replace ACVS valves at this point (probably the cause of this turbo failure)

Remove Oil Pan, Clean Sludge and Flush, Inspect Main and Rod Bearings for Signs of Wear, Replace if Necessary System flushed and oil pan removed and cleaned

Replace All Oil Feed Lines - Done

Inspect / Replace Oil Drain Line - Done

Remove, Inspect / Flush / Replace Oil Cooler & Lines - Did not do.

Inspect / Replace Up Pipe CAT - Did not do.

 

I suspect since not all these items were covered it probably voids any warranty I would have had.

 

What you suggested in regards to doing a review of the motor, would a Subaru dealer do that and roughly how much $$$ would this involve? I dread the thought of sinking any significant amount of money into this thing. It has set me back $3000+ in the last year alone.

[Max Capacity]

IMO the Dealer is not he best place for you.

 

Where in MA are you ?

 

We know who to send you too if you give us a location.

[jhaley18]

Max,

 

I am in north central Massachusetts. Since I won't be driving this car anywhere I'll need to have it towed.

[Max Capacity]

Greenfield, Barnardston area ? or more towards Worchester off Rt290?

 

You can give us the town, don't worry we all won't come over and visit.

[jhaley18]

Gardner

[Max Capacity]

Good, check out ESP Performance in Sterling MA off rt12.

 

My Tuner uses there dyno. Mike Kinsman of http://www.tuningalliance.com he's a vendor on here in the Vendor Fourm.

 

May be email Mike tell him I sent you and see what he can do for you with ESP.

 

At ESP, Dave Brady 888 AWD-DYNO, (888-293-3966) the shop foreman has/had one of these cars.

[GTBlues]

but I have had a similar issue as of late. Last year a friend borrowed my car and when it came back, it had no power, puffin smoke and a rattle from the engine compartment. My fear was of course the turbo and as I did not have the funds to even have it looked at, so it sat. Fast forward to 3 weeks ago, I got the car looked at, blown turbo, replaced and 300 miles later.....blown turbo number 2.

 

The shop did a whole laundry list of other things while replacing the turbo such as water pump, timing belt, etc. And fortunately they warranty their work so they replaced for free. Problem is, it sounds just like the last one (which did not sound like the stock turbo) and I have a feeling under boost and/or heat this one is gonna crap out too.

 

Both turbos have been ordered from Subaru directly so I dont know who is doing the rebuild on them, but there is a bigger issue going on and the turbos are going to continue to get blown out. The shop is already out a grand for the turbo they had to replace and dont know if they are going to be reimbursed by Subaru or not, but Im thinking about taking it back in to them to try and troubleshoot the cause. Im hoping they are up for that so they dont have to incur the cost of another turbo under their warranty program.

 

But I have to ask, am I wasting my time, energy, and funds trying to restore the glory to my 05 LGT? With $5000 into it already, Im fairly certain for 3 or 4 grand more i could have put in a new engine. So Im not sure what direction to go with this.

 

I truly love my LGT but now Im afraid to even drive the damn thing in this condition. When boost is applied, it sounds like.....well I dont know what the heck it sounds like. All I can say is that my stock turbo didn't make a peep. It just thru ya back in the seat and went. This turbo (and the last) sound like there is something wrong with them, which I dismissed as waste gate noise from a possibly different design on the replacement turbo. But I now have serious doubts and figure it's only a matter of time before this one takes a dump on me as well.

 

Thoughts? Advice?

 

Thanks,

Nathan

[rob-2]

rob-2,

 

The turbo did come with a warranty, but not all the bases were covered during the last turbo replacement. Some of these items were covered but not all.

 

Replace Oil Pump w/ OE 11mm Oil Pump - Not done

Flush Oil System, Inc: AVCS, Oil Feed, Oil Drain, Oil Cooler, Oil Filter, Oil Pan, Etc.

Remove, Inspect / Replace AVCS Valves - Did not replace ACVS valves at this point (probably the cause of this turbo failure)

Remove Oil Pan, Clean Sludge and Flush, Inspect Main and Rod Bearings for Signs of Wear, Replace if Necessary System flushed and oil pan removed and cleaned

Replace All Oil Feed Lines - Done

Inspect / Replace Oil Drain Line - Done

Remove, Inspect / Flush / Replace Oil Cooler & Lines - Did not do.

Inspect / Replace Up Pipe CAT - Did not do.

 

I suspect since not all these items were covered it probably voids any warranty I would have had.

 

What you suggested in regards to doing a review of the motor, would a Subaru dealer do that and roughly how much $$$ would this involve? I dread the thought of sinking any significant amount of money into this thing. It has set me back $3000+ in the last year alone.

 

I don't like the dealer, once you're out of warranty I don't feel their premium 'by-the-book' work is ever worth it.

 

An inspection should run you about $200. When I brought my car in I was charged $127 for a compression test and bore scope. However your case is a little more involved and my shop is far too reasonable.

 

You want to know the following things:

- Condition of turbo

- Metal in motor?

- head still good?

- pistons/rings still good?

- Cyl walls still good?

[thefultonhow]

but I have had a similar issue as of late. Last year a friend borrowed my car and when it came back, it had no power, puffin smoke and a rattle from the engine compartment. My fear was of course the turbo and as I did not have the funds to even have it looked at, so it sat. Fast forward to 3 weeks ago, I got the car looked at, blown turbo, replaced and 300 miles later.....blown turbo number 2.

 

The shop did a whole laundry list of other things while replacing the turbo such as water pump, timing belt, etc. And fortunately they warranty their work so they replaced for free. Problem is, it sounds just like the last one (which did not sound like the stock turbo) and I have a feeling under boost and/or heat this one is gonna crap out too.

 

Both turbos have been ordered from Subaru directly so I dont know who is doing the rebuild on them, but there is a bigger issue going on and the turbos are going to continue to get blown out. The shop is already out a grand for the turbo they had to replace and dont know if they are going to be reimbursed by Subaru or not, but Im thinking about taking it back in to them to try and troubleshoot the cause. Im hoping they are up for that so they dont have to incur the cost of another turbo under their warranty program.

 

But I have to ask, am I wasting my time, energy, and funds trying to restore the glory to my 05 LGT? With $5000 into it already, Im fairly certain for 3 or 4 grand more i could have put in a new engine. So Im not sure what direction to go with this.

 

I truly love my LGT but now Im afraid to even drive the damn thing in this condition. When boost is applied, it sounds like.....well I dont know what the heck it sounds like. All I can say is that my stock turbo didn't make a peep. It just thru ya back in the seat and went. This turbo (and the last) sound like there is something wrong with them, which I dismissed as waste gate noise from a possibly different design on the replacement turbo. But I now have serious doubts and figure it's only a matter of time before this one takes a dump on me as well.

 

Thoughts? Advice?

 

Thanks,

Nathan

 

See the list above for what should technically be done during a turbo replacement. I personally wouldn't replace the oil pump just due to the effort involved, though.