Battery Replacement, Will it screw the electronics if...

[bucko3the7man]

@ bucko3the7man :

What was done exactly to your car? stage 1 turbo charger?

I'd like to know how it changed, I remember hearing that the Legacy is a detuned boxer engine (compared to the Impreza). Or was it a simple ECU tuning? Was it "chipped" ? (like that lil upgrade you can do in GT4)

- and did it dramatically reduce fuel efficiency?

 

To be honest, I dont really have a clue about cars outside ripping a radio out, or regular maintenance (tyre pressure, oil, etc)

All I did to mine was a catless uppipe for safety and then I had bren reflash the ECU. I would say there was no change in the fuel efficiency, if anything it's slightly better off the boost. Car pulls much harder and smoother now though, the power is linear and very smooth.

[EmuChicken]

How much money did it set you back?

 

"catless" ... so in a way it should improve fuel efficiency? - but fail the MOT?

[bucko3the7man]

How much money did it set you back?

 

"catless" ... so in a way it should improve fuel efficiency? - but fail the MOT?

 

The uppipe is the part of the exhaust between the header and the turbo. I changed mine out for safety so that if the cat in there ever decided to break up it wouldn't send bits of catalytic converter into the turbo destroying it. It's pretty much useless because there are two cats in the downpipe (after the turbo) anyways. I don't want to post his pricing on the public forum, but they do have their own section of the forum and do e-tuning :-)

[Cainnibl]

step 1) Shut off car.

step 2) un bolt battery hold down bracket and both cables.

step 3) clean cables with wire brush if needed.

step 4) drop new battery in with the "+" closest to the red battery cable and the "-" closest to the black cable and bolt the hold down in place.

step 5) connect the red cable to the "+" post and tighten.

step 6) connect the black cable to the "-" post and tighten.

step 7) start car and let it warm up while you set your clock and radio.

step 8) go for a normal drive to allow the computer to "relearn" and fine tune itself.

 

step 8 is actualy optional... the car will do this on its own the next time you go somewhere.... it's no big deal.

[bugblatterbeast]

You really don't want to do this. Unhooking a battery from a running vehicle is a good way to fry electronics. While there is some protection from load dumps built into most automotive electronics, it is generally not a good idea to tempt fate.

 

if the battery happens to be drawing a bunch of current at the time of disconnection (say a shorted cell, or it is simply low and charging), that current will have to go somewhere during the brief interval it takes to throttle the alternator's field coil. during that period the voltage on the power rail will spike. if the current the battery was drawing at the time is large compared to the other loads on the bus, you can end up with a pretty large voltage spike. not worth the risk IMO.

 

If you don't want to reset your clock or radio presets, etc. leave your car running while you change out your battery. Your car will not shut off unless your alternator is bad.

 

And also be careful with positive terminal to not let it touch any grounds on your car. This will shut off your car than you'll have to reset your clock and radio.