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motor will cutting out and not accelerate!!


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i work about 15miles away, and about 5 miles from work my car dropped rpms when i was doing about 65-70. and wouldn't respond to me pushing the gas. the car was still running, but wouldn't respond to anything. so i pulled over. when i stopped i notice it was idling high. i popped the hood and got out. and didn't notice anything out of the norm.

 

i turned it off for a min and started it back up,and was fine for about a mile. then it did it again. i shut it down and started and was fine. i drove the rest of the way to work babying the hell out of it. i dont think i made it past 3000rpms. on the way home it did it again. then it was normal. what the HELL!

 

i stopped at auto-zone and it has a code: p2135

 

its the throttle position sensor. i thought if it was the throttle position sensor it would just have a dead spot, not cut power all together.

 

i also have an unresolved code of p0420

 

cat issue, but i wouldnt think it would make it act like that.

 

 

i did just do my plugs last night, so idk if i knocked a wire loss or something. besides that i haven't done anything different.

 

im not convinced its just the sensor.

 

i searched all over and cant find any similar post.

anyone els have this happen?

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Seeing your other post about the 420 code it could be a clogged cat. That could cause the acceleration issues as well as the 420 code even after you changed the front O2 sensor.

 

-Alex

 

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I'm not completely sure but I feel like if it was a clogged cat it would be losing power all the time accept for maybe a minute or two after starting it because of the back flow when you shut the car off could possible unclog the cat for a second. It seems to me sense you can shut off your car and it works ok for a few miles its something thats not being detected until the drive cycle.

 

When it cuts power does it completely lose all throttle response to where it doesnt react in the least bit or is it just kinda boggy?

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it may not cause it all the time because the 02 sensor in your cat is not getting an accurate reading. The 02 sensors directly work with the fueling system, if it gets a faulty/inaccurate reading the ecu adjusts different aspects to make up for that. Hence what Alex said, you could change the sensor 100x but the issue could just be the cat failing creating faulty/inaccurate readings.
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That makes sense now, I wasent taking the o2 sensor into consideration. But also if his car is tuned, depending on who tuned it it may be set to open loop at all times and then I wouldnt think the o2 sensor would matter. I could be wrong on this one too, just trying to throw out some ideas.
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It happened when the car was warm, it doesn't act bogged down at all. And when it happened I lost all throttle response. And when I pulled over it was idaling high. And now I just found out that a new throttle response sensor for my car is gonna be $560! Because its part of the throttle body..lol! So anyone have a good place to find a cheep highflier cat?
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I would say start eliminating one problem at a time.

 

I would re-check the wires and plugs and look for a vacuum leak. A high idle like that can be the TPS or the Servo-controlled throttle body or a vacuum leak.

 

The cat may be an issue as well but likely wouldn't cause a high idle.

 

If you can find a local subie specialist that is going to be your best bet on this.

 

-Mike Paisan

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg

11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts.

Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us.

Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber |AIM: AZP Installs

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

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  • 2 weeks later...
HAppened to me 2 weeks ago, suddenly at idel with no response to pedal. Mine ran for about a 1/2 mile or so after I turned off and restarted, so I was able to get home, but had it flat-bedded to shop. It took longer and longer to respond after each restart, though. My mechanic sat for several minutes waiting for it to return to normal on a couple of test drives while diagnosing it. Mechanic tried the actuator on the right bank, turned out to be the throttle body. Found a used one for about $250. He said his research indicated this is becoming a problem on these cars.
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