SBT Posted December 11, 2016 Share Posted December 11, 2016 Glad it worked/helped. FYI - You may want to undo your rear stay from the mount/bushing so you have additional fore/aft, up/down play when you reinstall it. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subakook Posted June 10, 2017 Share Posted June 10, 2017 In the process of replacing my transfer gear bearings. Got the bottom of the case split just enough for all the oil to drain. Feel like I'm kinda stuck. The top of the case is stuck pretty good. I'm afraid to keep chiseling the bottom. I'm hammering a little on the bracket some too but just wont budge any more. Man, what to do? Maybe I need to get a second set of hands to pull down on the case/snout while I hammer. My output shaft has a huge amount of play, hope the gears aren't thrashed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted June 10, 2017 I Donated Share Posted June 10, 2017 You shouldn't have to chisel, IIRC. You probably missed a bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subakook Posted June 10, 2017 Share Posted June 10, 2017 (edited) I got the case off after about an hour. I actually put the four bolts back in the bottom and tightened gently, releasing pressure on the top pin. The steel bracket has a bolt/stud that attaches to the shifter, had to beat on that. Damn thing popped right off. One of the two roller bearings(smaller one) was toast but replaced all four. 12 ton harbor freight press worked great. Rear seal was a pain to remove. Edited June 10, 2017 by Subakook Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 (edited) Rear seal was a pain to remove. For those hard to pull seals, pilot and other bearings, try this Not quite this Subaru Speciality Tool P/N: 398527700, 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but works well for these types of applications. Edited June 14, 2017 by SBT - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setnev Posted August 12, 2017 Share Posted August 12, 2017 Thank you, thank you, thank you for this.... I just bought an 02 Forester S 5MT for $800 with, what sounds like, marbles rolling around in the driveline. I knew it was a bearing issue and thought it might have been the mid-shaft bearing, but after reading through the 5MT failure thread, it sounded more and more like the bearings in the tail shaft section. After reading your description of the sound it made, I am now almost positive that it's these bearings. If it's only less than $200 then, I will replace these. I already have the press and pullers necessary for such job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 (edited) So I've been working on my transmission this past month and was about to finish the work by installing the 'last piece of the puzzle' (extended case with center diff and stuff). That is until I found some play in a bearing. I am not sure if this kind of play is OK or not. Here is a quick video I made. What do you guys think? [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fx5yXMqA6CQ]checking ball bearing play on transfer gear--subaru outback 05 xt mt - YouTube[/ame] Edited October 5, 2017 by xt2005bonbon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 Honestly for me, I can't remember if my new bearing did that or not. I didn't have the bearing installed that way, I just bolted it back into the rear case like in the picture below. http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image21_zpsb4a1431b.jpeg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 Oh mine was installed the same way as yours. But as I was going to reinstall the extended case back on the trans, I noticed that play when moving the shaft. So I removed the shaft with bearing from the extended case to check it. I am guessing this kind of play may be OK after all, since there is neither side to side play, nor in and out play. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CPUNeck Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 From the video it looks like the movement is the bearing "pivoting" inside the race. Once installed, the shaft will not be able to move in that plane. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 Another forum member said the same thing. And I actually thought the same as well. So I actually went ahead and put everything back last night. Hopefully, it will not explode . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alrob Posted January 5, 2018 Share Posted January 5, 2018 So, rehashing an old thread here! My 2002 Legcay GTB is showing signs of center diff problems; clunking on slow, full turns, whirring/shuddering at high speeds. After lots of reading, there seems to be two camps here - those who swap out the whole center diff unit, and those who just replace the bearing. In either case it seems appropriate to replace the other three bearings for good measure. My question is why are there these two approaches to the same issue? Is it as simple as one is cheaper but not as easy as the other? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted January 5, 2018 Share Posted January 5, 2018 I'm not familiar with another method, in the 2005-2009's the center differential is a sealed unit, there is no bearing inside that you replace. I think the reason it goes bad is because the fluid inside the sealed center diff doesn't do its job properly anymore, but I could be wrong about that. There's a bearing on the outside of the center diff, but I don't think that's what goes bad and causes the binding. I did some quick searching, and frankster says he thinks it's the plates inside the diff that cause the binding. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2001-5-mt-legacy-center-diff-binding-very-badly-208004.html Just to be clear, even though I'm saying it's sealed, I'm pretty sure there is a snap ring that you can remove to get inside the center diff. When I looked up the parts diagram online, Subaru only sells the whole diff, so I ended up paying around $460 buying a new one online, which comes with a new bearing on the outside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elshankos Posted April 8, 2019 Share Posted April 8, 2019 Awesome write up - thanks a lot! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SX-70 Posted October 30, 2019 Share Posted October 30, 2019 I haven't seen any mention of installing the transfer case end plate gasket #33179AA030. The bearings on my center differential (5MT) have gone noisy and it looks like the end plate was removed in the past (apprentice marks and lots of extra RTV). There wasn't a gasket in place when I took this apart, and no one seems to use it when rebuilding the differential. Does anyone have any insight as to when you should use it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted October 30, 2019 Share Posted October 30, 2019 (edited) Which car do you have? I just googled this part number and it looks like it is for older MY (90-00s). At least for the legacy/outback turbo MY 04-09 manual trans, you should just use rtv according to the manual. That's what I did. Edited October 30, 2019 by xt2005bonbon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SX-70 Posted October 30, 2019 Share Posted October 30, 2019 Thank you, that helps a lot. I'm working on a 2005 Impreza that's cunningly disguised as a Saab. I somehow managed to miss the "what this fits" tab on the Subaru site. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted October 30, 2019 Share Posted October 30, 2019 sounds good. turbo engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SX-70 Posted November 1, 2019 Share Posted November 1, 2019 No, this is a high mileage non-turbo vehicle. The center differential rebuild went well, but each repair on this thing reveals a new problem. I think the clutch and flywheel need some attention now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted November 1, 2019 Share Posted November 1, 2019 uh oh, careful. May get a can of worms Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paycheck Posted March 22 Share Posted March 22 I know this is a very old thread, but this sounds an awful lot like the issue I've been having lately. And this writeup is so well done that I'm considering doing the work myself. Here's a video of the noise the car is making from a week ago. It's been getting louder since last week. Does this sound like diff bearings? I'll climb under the car tomorrow and check the u joint and carrier bearing on the drive shaft, but if that yields nothing, I might drop the tranny and get dirty. Any feedback would be most helpful. Thanks, $$$ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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