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Legacy 2.5GT Center Differential Bearing Swap


TeriyakiBBS

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  • 1 month later...

dvinke1, in your post, you had mentioned only two of the bearings needed to be done. Which of these from the list were they?

 

Ball Bearing 806230170

Radial Ball Bearing 806255010

Roll Bearing 806322080

Roll Bearing 806330120

 

I am having some "airplane whine" as can be heard in this link. Not sure if yours sounded similar. Mine is an 05 GT and currently up on stands waiting for me to get some time.

 

http://s1380.photobucket.com/user/wi...lh3v3.mp4.html

 

I am pretty sure that my TOB is going, but that is a separate noise.

 

Thanks

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dvinke1, in your post, you had mentioned only two of the bearings needed to be done. Which of these from the list were they?

 

Ball Bearing 806230170

Radial Ball Bearing 806255010

Roll Bearing 806322080

Roll Bearing 806330120

 

I am having some "airplane whine" as can be heard in this link. Not sure if yours sounded similar. Mine is an 05 GT and currently up on stands waiting for me to get some time.

 

http://s1380.photobucket.com/user/wi...lh3v3.mp4.html

 

I am pretty sure that my TOB is going, but that is a separate noise.

 

Thanks

 

Mine actually sounded almost exactly like a TOB, I thought thats what it was for 10k before I jacked it all up and crawled underneath to realize it was coming from the diff area. No whining tho..

 

For me it was

 

Ball Bearing 806230170

and

Roll Bearing 806322080

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Here are two links that should work.

 

http://s1380.photobucket.com/user/wi...orcrn.mp4.html

 

http://s1380.photobucket.com/user/wi...lh3v3.mp4.html

 

As I am trying to diagnose this sound, another one has started. From memory, I believe it is the early stages of a throw out bearing going bad. Doesnt start until the car is warmed up and is then intermittent. I already had a TOB go taking part of the snout, replaced with a TS3K kit. Thinking maybe the lube on the snout is almost gone and after it get hot, starts to catch.

 

I began the tear down process to get to the clutch area, and discovered a badly ripped CV boot that also needs to be replaced. Grease all over and probably gone. Not sure what sound this makes, constant or intermittent?

 

Could I have hit the tri-fecta with a TOB, Center Diff Bearing and an axle?

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  • 5 months later...
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  • 7 months later...

Dumb question but after you remove the transmission crossmember, the transmission will still stay up just fine right? It looks like there's a jack stand up near the cv axles, but is that there just in case?

 

Also, any idea what size hex is needed to remove the 4 bolts holding one of the bearings on?

 

*I wasn't thinking. After searching other forums too, it sounds like you need a 6mm hex for the 4 bolts.

Edited by apexi
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  • 2 weeks later...

Thank you for the how to. I did this the other day, and here are my thoughts on the job.

 

It's a pretty straightforward job.

 

- One of the questions in my last reply might have seemed a little stupid in hindsight. I ended up using a floor jack with a piece of wood on it to support the transmission while I removed the support brackets. I might not have needed to do that, but it seemed like it needed some sort of support to be safe.

 

-I didn't buy new exhaust spring bolts beforehand because I was being cheap (MSRP on the bolts is around $4.50 each, and the springs and nuts are just as expensive). So I ended up going to the dealer to get new bolts because even though mine only have 45k or so on them, the threads still were a little messed up after I removed them, not sure if they rubbed the flange on the way out or what.

 

- I didn't anticipate how hard it would be to break loose the tail of the transmission, I wish I had done more research on the safest way to remove it. I ended up using a chisel and a hammer around the corners to break it open, probably not the best way to do it, but it got the job done.

 

- I recently bought a harbor freight 12 ton press. The harbor freight press could not break loose the bearing attached to the case by the four 6mm allen screws. I measured 6mm of shaft sticking up where you remove the snap ring, and the best I could do was get it down to 4mm with the press. Out of desperation, I decided to toss the shaft/bearing combo into the freezer for 2hrs. After trying being in the freezer for 2hrs, the bearing pressed off with very little effort (picture 1). So I would highly recommend tossing the shaft in the freezer for an hour or two, to make your life easier.

 

- I chickened out and didn't replace any of the bearings on the transfer driven gear, which has the two smaller bearings on it (picture 2). When reading through some of the other center diff posts on nasioc, some people had bearings that were pretty chewed up. On my car, the bearings, and bearing races looked perfectly fine. So I was worried about potentially doing more harm than good by trying to install the new bearings, by incorrectly installing them or something, or having different size bearings and races (newer bearings and races were a different size, but overall probably the same).

 

- I wasn't sure how much rtv I would need to reseal the transmission case back up. I used Permatex 81182 gear oil rtv, and I only used maybe half of the 3oz tube.

 

My 2009 Legacy had 196k on it when I did this job. I first noticed a problem in April when I was taking a 4hr trip. I pulled off the highway, and noticed a loud metallic clicking sound when turning into a parking spot. The clicking sound seemed to come from the center of the car, under the shifter area, but it was hard to tell exactly where.

 

After that, I continued to notice a loud clicking sounds when making slow turns, in a parking lot, turning into or backing out of a parking spot.

 

In cooler weather, I think I would have to do at least 20-30 minutes of driving before I noticed the sound. In warmer weather (80F+), I was able to hear the clicking much sooner.

 

Replacing the center differential seems to have fixed the clicking sound for me.

 

I feel like I'm forgetting something, so I'll edit this post if I remember.

bearing.thumb.jpg.cb51a94655255a11eeabdd16235a277c.jpg

shaft.thumb.jpg.6a80915979a18da12c96cff2946776a5.jpg

Edited by apexi
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  • 5 months later...

I really appreciate the write up, but I'm running into a problem no one else seems to have mentioned, so i can only conclude i'm doing something wrong.

 

Upon the removal of the pin for the shift linkage, the two shafts slide freely within one another, but I can't slide the linkage off the shaft coming out of the transmission. It's like something is catching it, preventing it from sliding out all the way. Am I making any sense?

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Hopefully the images uploaded ok. In one photo you can see where the pin is out, and in the other, blurry as it is, you can see the shaft is able to slide within the linkage. But I can't pull the linkage off the shaft coming out of the transmission. It's like it's getting hung up on something.

918690425_shiftlinkage.thumb.gif.263d10bee705942a86b04736f4363f42.gif

1614433816_shiftlinkage2.thumb.gif.5b1d870d3b214d9027b059469ee6cf59.gif

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Likely a burr somewhere on that shaft.

 

Undo and remove the bolt (in the joint) and leave that part in place on the shaft.

 

Once you get the joint undone, then you should be able to freely twist it and pull it at the same time. Squirt some WD40 and/or PBB on that shaft for lubrication as you're twisting/pulling it off.

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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Thank you for your crazy-prompt responses, fine Sir. The thought crossed my mind, but I thought I should reach out to you guys first to make sure there wasn't something blatantly obvious I was missing.

 

edit: It worked! I had to finesse (ie apply careful, but decent force) the joint bolt out because there technically isn't enough clearance to pull the bolts out from from either joint in the linkage, which I presume is why the pin/shaft approach exists to begin with. I'm probably wrong, but it seemed logical given the clearance.

 

Nonetheless, thanks again!

Edited by Richard T
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